TORQUE SOLUTION - Transmission Mount - Engine mount - Suspension parts
01-28-2013, 07:34 PM
#61
Banned
Thread Starter
Thank you for your order.
Thank you, you're on the list.
Hi Rob,
Thank you for your order.
Our friend Jay took care of it.
Thank you !
Thank you, you're on the list.
You don't really need a DIY step through, its a very simple job and obvious when you start using a jack, axle stands, a couple of sockets, extension bars and spanners (ratcheting help here but not essential).
Heres Steves 'walk through' anyway:
I just completed the replacement of my transmission carrier. 29,730 miles and my rubber is split exactly like gofishracing. No, you cannot visually inspect with parts on the car. I would estimate the job to take about 2 hours. You will need to raise the car (4 jack stands). You will need 10mm socket and T30 Torx wrench to remove the black plastic belly pans (remove the rear section first followed by the middle). You will need a 15mm socket (both long and short) and 16mm socket (for the bolts that go into the rubber mounts on the transmission carrier to the transmission). You will also need to hold/lift the transmission once nuts/bolts are removed. I placed my jack directly in front of the gear box drain plug, not much force is needed just enough to hold transmission/motor in place I do not think it will fall but it is needed to place nuts and bolts back into position. After covers are removed and jack in place, start removing bolts and nuts (pictures on the earlier link are good, do not need to remove those two large torx bolts next to the carrier towards the rear). The most difficult part of this project is removing and replacing the two 16mm bolts because of the large diameter rubber hose on both sides. My old carrier had a closed cell foam on the inside of each side that should be removed and reused on the new carrier. When reassembling I used old bolts and nuts. I would suggest the following assembly order starting out by first placing the nuts and bolts once all are in place then torque in the carrier to floor nuts first. Here is my suggested order of installing; Install two 16mm bolts that go through rubber carrier to transmission, do not tighten. Then install 4 nuts on the black bracket, then install 2 bolts on black bracket to carrier. Finally install 2 nuts from carrier to floor, these can be given the final torque. Then I would torque the nuts on the black bracket, side bolts on black bracket then the bolts on the rubber part of carrier. Double check everything is tight, torque values for nuts and bolts are 48 ftlb/65Nm. Install middle black belly pan, install rear black belly pan. Your done. Good luck, hope this helps and makes sense.
From here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...r-mount-4.html
As I said, a real easy job to do by the most basically skilled. 30 mins tops on a ramp and 1.5hrs on your back (quicker if you are younger lol!)
Jay
Heres Steves 'walk through' anyway:
I just completed the replacement of my transmission carrier. 29,730 miles and my rubber is split exactly like gofishracing. No, you cannot visually inspect with parts on the car. I would estimate the job to take about 2 hours. You will need to raise the car (4 jack stands). You will need 10mm socket and T30 Torx wrench to remove the black plastic belly pans (remove the rear section first followed by the middle). You will need a 15mm socket (both long and short) and 16mm socket (for the bolts that go into the rubber mounts on the transmission carrier to the transmission). You will also need to hold/lift the transmission once nuts/bolts are removed. I placed my jack directly in front of the gear box drain plug, not much force is needed just enough to hold transmission/motor in place I do not think it will fall but it is needed to place nuts and bolts back into position. After covers are removed and jack in place, start removing bolts and nuts (pictures on the earlier link are good, do not need to remove those two large torx bolts next to the carrier towards the rear). The most difficult part of this project is removing and replacing the two 16mm bolts because of the large diameter rubber hose on both sides. My old carrier had a closed cell foam on the inside of each side that should be removed and reused on the new carrier. When reassembling I used old bolts and nuts. I would suggest the following assembly order starting out by first placing the nuts and bolts once all are in place then torque in the carrier to floor nuts first. Here is my suggested order of installing; Install two 16mm bolts that go through rubber carrier to transmission, do not tighten. Then install 4 nuts on the black bracket, then install 2 bolts on black bracket to carrier. Finally install 2 nuts from carrier to floor, these can be given the final torque. Then I would torque the nuts on the black bracket, side bolts on black bracket then the bolts on the rubber part of carrier. Double check everything is tight, torque values for nuts and bolts are 48 ftlb/65Nm. Install middle black belly pan, install rear black belly pan. Your done. Good luck, hope this helps and makes sense.
From here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...r-mount-4.html
As I said, a real easy job to do by the most basically skilled. 30 mins tops on a ramp and 1.5hrs on your back (quicker if you are younger lol!)
Jay
Thank you very much !
I'm sure Eddie could arrange an exchange service for those that don't have access to a press etc... Anyone got an old mount they don't need to send to Eddie to start the ball rolling??
I've got one but due to my location this isn't a cost effective way to start the service off for you State side...
I've got one but due to my location this isn't a cost effective way to start the service off for you State side...
jk...
Pleasure talking to you.
01-30-2013, 07:15 PM
#65
Rennlist Member
Holy crap, it's a polyurethane avalanche.
Typically no urethane in P-car world, it's either stock rubber or solid mounts. All this urethane hardness talk reminds me of buying goodies for my M3....lol.
Typically no urethane in P-car world, it's either stock rubber or solid mounts. All this urethane hardness talk reminds me of buying goodies for my M3....lol.
01-31-2013, 06:14 AM
#66
Of note, when I say ~20% louder + feel, I can still listen to the stereo clearly at normal volumes (I know, I know... I don't want a war from the anti-radio police!) and the hands free phone is still clears as a bell both ends and this is on top of the centre box delete exhaust.
01-31-2013, 08:31 AM
#68
Drifting
02-01-2013, 12:34 AM
#74
Banned
Thread Starter
Hi guys,
I'm at Sebring with limited access, but I'll guarantee as soon as I have the first pics I'll post them.
Like Mike said the 95A are ready and 75A to follow so, on Monday I'll contact all 95A requests so we can start shipping.
Thank you !
I'm at Sebring with limited access, but I'll guarantee as soon as I have the first pics I'll post them.
Like Mike said the 95A are ready and 75A to follow so, on Monday I'll contact all 95A requests so we can start shipping.
Thank you !