TORQUE SOLUTION - Transmission Mount - Engine mount - Suspension parts
01-27-2013, 01:21 AM
#46
Pro
Interesting. I have the 996 cup cable on my RS, but does not notice additional noise or vibration. 2-to-3 is much more precise than before, and in general it is more crisp than the OEM. I am getting the 75A just to see if it could improve the shift action even further.
01-28-2013, 03:52 AM
#52
You don't really need a DIY step through, its a very simple job and obvious when you start using a jack, axle stands, a couple of sockets, extension bars and spanners (ratcheting help here but not essential).
Heres Steves 'walk through' anyway:
I just completed the replacement of my transmission carrier. 29,730 miles and my rubber is split exactly like gofishracing. No, you cannot visually inspect with parts on the car. I would estimate the job to take about 2 hours. You will need to raise the car (4 jack stands). You will need 10mm socket and T30 Torx wrench to remove the black plastic belly pans (remove the rear section first followed by the middle). You will need a 15mm socket (both long and short) and 16mm socket (for the bolts that go into the rubber mounts on the transmission carrier to the transmission). You will also need to hold/lift the transmission once nuts/bolts are removed. I placed my jack directly in front of the gear box drain plug, not much force is needed just enough to hold transmission/motor in place I do not think it will fall but it is needed to place nuts and bolts back into position. After covers are removed and jack in place, start removing bolts and nuts (pictures on the earlier link are good, do not need to remove those two large torx bolts next to the carrier towards the rear). The most difficult part of this project is removing and replacing the two 16mm bolts because of the large diameter rubber hose on both sides. My old carrier had a closed cell foam on the inside of each side that should be removed and reused on the new carrier. When reassembling I used old bolts and nuts. I would suggest the following assembly order starting out by first placing the nuts and bolts once all are in place then torque in the carrier to floor nuts first. Here is my suggested order of installing; Install two 16mm bolts that go through rubber carrier to transmission, do not tighten. Then install 4 nuts on the black bracket, then install 2 bolts on black bracket to carrier. Finally install 2 nuts from carrier to floor, these can be given the final torque. Then I would torque the nuts on the black bracket, side bolts on black bracket then the bolts on the rubber part of carrier. Double check everything is tight, torque values for nuts and bolts are 48 ftlb/65Nm. Install middle black belly pan, install rear black belly pan. Your done. Good luck, hope this helps and makes sense.
From here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...r-mount-4.html
As I said, a real easy job to do by the most basically skilled. 30 mins tops on a ramp and 1.5hrs on your back (quicker if you are younger lol!)
Jay
Heres Steves 'walk through' anyway:
I just completed the replacement of my transmission carrier. 29,730 miles and my rubber is split exactly like gofishracing. No, you cannot visually inspect with parts on the car. I would estimate the job to take about 2 hours. You will need to raise the car (4 jack stands). You will need 10mm socket and T30 Torx wrench to remove the black plastic belly pans (remove the rear section first followed by the middle). You will need a 15mm socket (both long and short) and 16mm socket (for the bolts that go into the rubber mounts on the transmission carrier to the transmission). You will also need to hold/lift the transmission once nuts/bolts are removed. I placed my jack directly in front of the gear box drain plug, not much force is needed just enough to hold transmission/motor in place I do not think it will fall but it is needed to place nuts and bolts back into position. After covers are removed and jack in place, start removing bolts and nuts (pictures on the earlier link are good, do not need to remove those two large torx bolts next to the carrier towards the rear). The most difficult part of this project is removing and replacing the two 16mm bolts because of the large diameter rubber hose on both sides. My old carrier had a closed cell foam on the inside of each side that should be removed and reused on the new carrier. When reassembling I used old bolts and nuts. I would suggest the following assembly order starting out by first placing the nuts and bolts once all are in place then torque in the carrier to floor nuts first. Here is my suggested order of installing; Install two 16mm bolts that go through rubber carrier to transmission, do not tighten. Then install 4 nuts on the black bracket, then install 2 bolts on black bracket to carrier. Finally install 2 nuts from carrier to floor, these can be given the final torque. Then I would torque the nuts on the black bracket, side bolts on black bracket then the bolts on the rubber part of carrier. Double check everything is tight, torque values for nuts and bolts are 48 ftlb/65Nm. Install middle black belly pan, install rear black belly pan. Your done. Good luck, hope this helps and makes sense.
From here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...r-mount-4.html
As I said, a real easy job to do by the most basically skilled. 30 mins tops on a ramp and 1.5hrs on your back (quicker if you are younger lol!)
Jay
01-28-2013, 03:58 AM
#53
You can see the coolant hoses either side of the mount in the photos above, on mine they were protected by a nylon outer 'net' sheath. Just squeeze them to gain the room to remove the bolts (N#7) in the rubber bushes- also lower the gear box slightly, you will need to remove all the other bolts and nuts first (N# 6 and 5)
The black pressed steel mount (N#3) under the floor does'nt need to be removed just the 2 bolts (N#6) that pass through and into the alloy mount body.
The black pressed steel mount (N#3) under the floor does'nt need to be removed just the 2 bolts (N#6) that pass through and into the alloy mount body.
01-28-2013, 04:09 AM
#56
runet's input:
Finally got the Torque Solution transmission mount on the car a couple of days ago, to me it looks like a very nice product. The work needed to swap the mount has been covered in this thread already, but I'll just put in my information anyway and hopefully there might be a tip or two for the next person doing this.
First up, here are the original mount still on the car after the rear plastic cover has been removed under the car:
To remove the old mount, I supported the transmission with a piece of wood on a jack. This made it possible to move the transmission (and engine) slightly up and down, and I found that I needed to lift the transmission slightly up to get the old mount out. But before that, I neede to lower it a little bit to make it easier get out the bolts that goes through the bushings. It's best to get them out last, after the two nuts on the top, and the two bolts that are low and foreward.
Old mount out:
Old bushing had started to crack very slightly, but was still in good working order. Car has 20k miles, 12 years old:
Both mounts:
Bushing on the Torque Solution mount:
Torque Solution mount has the 997 part number.
These two parts was transfered over from original mount:
New mount in. I recommend putting in the two big bolts that goes through the bushings before the nuts and smaller bolts, although the two nuts can be loosely fitted first also. I needed to move the mount slightly around to get the bolts threaded on the transmission itself, so putting on the two smaller bolts first and/or thightening the nuts is not a good idea. Smaller bolts and nuts are 65Nm, big bolts are 85Nm.
Had a drive on the streets afterwards, and no difference whatsoever was noticed. No extra noise or vibration. The new bushings are much stiffer than the original ones, so it should be better on track and with no downside.
I will also commend on the excellent service I received from Mike at AWD Motorsports.
Finally got the Torque Solution transmission mount on the car a couple of days ago, to me it looks like a very nice product. The work needed to swap the mount has been covered in this thread already, but I'll just put in my information anyway and hopefully there might be a tip or two for the next person doing this.
First up, here are the original mount still on the car after the rear plastic cover has been removed under the car:
To remove the old mount, I supported the transmission with a piece of wood on a jack. This made it possible to move the transmission (and engine) slightly up and down, and I found that I needed to lift the transmission slightly up to get the old mount out. But before that, I neede to lower it a little bit to make it easier get out the bolts that goes through the bushings. It's best to get them out last, after the two nuts on the top, and the two bolts that are low and foreward.
Old mount out:
Old bushing had started to crack very slightly, but was still in good working order. Car has 20k miles, 12 years old:
Both mounts:
Bushing on the Torque Solution mount:
Torque Solution mount has the 997 part number.
These two parts was transfered over from original mount:
New mount in. I recommend putting in the two big bolts that goes through the bushings before the nuts and smaller bolts, although the two nuts can be loosely fitted first also. I needed to move the mount slightly around to get the bolts threaded on the transmission itself, so putting on the two smaller bolts first and/or thightening the nuts is not a good idea. Smaller bolts and nuts are 65Nm, big bolts are 85Nm.
Had a drive on the streets afterwards, and no difference whatsoever was noticed. No extra noise or vibration. The new bushings are much stiffer than the original ones, so it should be better on track and with no downside.
I will also commend on the excellent service I received from Mike at AWD Motorsports.
01-28-2013, 04:13 AM
#57
I'm sure Eddie could arrange an exchange service for those that don't have access to a press etc... Anyone got an old mount they don't need to send to Eddie to start the ball rolling??
I've got one but due to my location this isn't a cost effective way to start the service off for you State side...
I've got one but due to my location this isn't a cost effective way to start the service off for you State side...
01-28-2013, 09:04 AM
#58
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: juno beach, florida
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Jamie, you have super duper cables. i.e. the only one that has 996 RS cables that Orbit had laying around. The year after the RS's went to sequential and they didn't make those cables for RS/RSR's anymore.
01-28-2013, 04:28 PM
#59
Former Vendor
runet's input:
Finally got the Torque Solution transmission mount on the car a couple of days ago, to me it looks like a very nice product. The work needed to swap the mount has been covered in this thread already, but I'll just put in my information anyway and hopefully there might be a tip or two for the next person doing this.
First up, here are the original mount still on the car after the rear plastic cover has been removed under the car:
To remove the old mount, I supported the transmission with a piece of wood on a jack. This made it possible to move the transmission (and engine) slightly up and down, and I found that I needed to lift the transmission slightly up to get the old mount out. But before that, I neede to lower it a little bit to make it easier get out the bolts that goes through the bushings. It's best to get them out last, after the two nuts on the top, and the two bolts that are low and foreward.
Old mount out:
Old bushing had started to crack very slightly, but was still in good working order. Car has 20k miles, 12 years old:
Both mounts:
Bushing on the Torque Solution mount:
Torque Solution mount has the 997 part number.
These two parts was transfered over from original mount:
New mount in. I recommend putting in the two big bolts that goes through the bushings before the nuts and smaller bolts, although the two nuts can be loosely fitted first also. I needed to move the mount slightly around to get the bolts threaded on the transmission itself, so putting on the two smaller bolts first and/or thightening the nuts is not a good idea. Smaller bolts and nuts are 65Nm, big bolts are 85Nm.
Had a drive on the streets afterwards, and no difference whatsoever was noticed. No extra noise or vibration. The new bushings are much stiffer than the original ones, so it should be better on track and with no downside.
I will also commend on the excellent service I received from Mike at AWD Motorsports.
Finally got the Torque Solution transmission mount on the car a couple of days ago, to me it looks like a very nice product. The work needed to swap the mount has been covered in this thread already, but I'll just put in my information anyway and hopefully there might be a tip or two for the next person doing this.
First up, here are the original mount still on the car after the rear plastic cover has been removed under the car:
To remove the old mount, I supported the transmission with a piece of wood on a jack. This made it possible to move the transmission (and engine) slightly up and down, and I found that I needed to lift the transmission slightly up to get the old mount out. But before that, I neede to lower it a little bit to make it easier get out the bolts that goes through the bushings. It's best to get them out last, after the two nuts on the top, and the two bolts that are low and foreward.
Old mount out:
Old bushing had started to crack very slightly, but was still in good working order. Car has 20k miles, 12 years old:
Both mounts:
Bushing on the Torque Solution mount:
Torque Solution mount has the 997 part number.
These two parts was transfered over from original mount:
New mount in. I recommend putting in the two big bolts that goes through the bushings before the nuts and smaller bolts, although the two nuts can be loosely fitted first also. I needed to move the mount slightly around to get the bolts threaded on the transmission itself, so putting on the two smaller bolts first and/or thightening the nuts is not a good idea. Smaller bolts and nuts are 65Nm, big bolts are 85Nm.
Had a drive on the streets afterwards, and no difference whatsoever was noticed. No extra noise or vibration. The new bushings are much stiffer than the original ones, so it should be better on track and with no downside.
I will also commend on the excellent service I received from Mike at AWD Motorsports.
01-28-2013, 07:10 PM
#60
Eddie,
Nice talking to you. Thanks for the insight. I'll take a set of 75's for my 11 GT3 RS.
Thanks,
Ken
Nice talking to you. Thanks for the insight. I'll take a set of 75's for my 11 GT3 RS.
Thanks,
Ken