Thoughts on my geo/allignment settings?
#1
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Hi there
Had my car's geo checked to make sure all was still OK, rear had gone out a little but nothing extreme and added some more front camber shims. Result is this:-
![](https://img600.imageshack.us/img600/7659/geoif.jpg)
Car is daily driven and approx 5 trackdays per year. Car is driving awesome on the street, needs a little more rear bar to dial a bit more push out but overall very happy with it. Front-end feels absolutely amazing and very confident inspiring.
What do you guys think?
Got some Pirelli Corsa to fit which I got of a GT3 owner which are in 235 front and 305 rear which should be a bit better for track over the MPSS.
Had my car's geo checked to make sure all was still OK, rear had gone out a little but nothing extreme and added some more front camber shims. Result is this:-
![](https://img600.imageshack.us/img600/7659/geoif.jpg)
Car is daily driven and approx 5 trackdays per year. Car is driving awesome on the street, needs a little more rear bar to dial a bit more push out but overall very happy with it. Front-end feels absolutely amazing and very confident inspiring.
What do you guys think?
Got some Pirelli Corsa to fit which I got of a GT3 owner which are in 235 front and 305 rear which should be a bit better for track over the MPSS.
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#3
Race Director
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The front right vs left side is .5 degree of camber off! They can get this setting right on with in .01-02 degree. They need to take care of this.
Depending on what tires you are tracking with but most r-comps on a 997 car like
FRONT
-2.5 per side
zero toe
REAR
-2 per side
2mm toe in....your is showing degrees and there are on line converters but I believe that is around 1.5mm in which is ok....no more than 2 for street r-comps seems to be the spec.
Depending on what tires you are tracking with but most r-comps on a 997 car like
FRONT
-2.5 per side
zero toe
REAR
-2 per side
2mm toe in....your is showing degrees and there are on line converters but I believe that is around 1.5mm in which is ok....no more than 2 for street r-comps seems to be the spec.
#4
Rennlist Member
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^ Mdrums the OP's units are in degrees and minutes. 1deg59' = 1.98degs.
These specs look right. Anything beyond is a matter of customization. But unlike the 2nd poster I would MOST DEFINITELY NOT add a load of camber if you're running old Pirelli Corsas (those things must be rather dated--think they ceased production around 09/10?). These cars don't need crazy front camber unless you're running a real soft compound like the Hoosier A/R's or Trofeo Originals.
Try your car on these settings and I think you'll find them neutral to slightly pushy (depending on your bar settings and assuming you're on a 997.1). A good place to start IMO.
These specs look right. Anything beyond is a matter of customization. But unlike the 2nd poster I would MOST DEFINITELY NOT add a load of camber if you're running old Pirelli Corsas (those things must be rather dated--think they ceased production around 09/10?). These cars don't need crazy front camber unless you're running a real soft compound like the Hoosier A/R's or Trofeo Originals.
Try your car on these settings and I think you'll find them neutral to slightly pushy (depending on your bar settings and assuming you're on a 997.1). A good place to start IMO.
#6
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If these are settings with someone sitting in the driver seat (or weight in the drivers seat), then the Left Front camber needs to be adjusted as mentioned. Also, the caster between the left and right need to be much closer than that. I don't quite remember the tolerances but I think it should be within .1 or .2 of a degree.
#7
Race Director
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either in degree's or minutes the front camber spec could be a lot closer.
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#8
Race Director
#10
Rennlist Member
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OP mentioned push on street driving. I have hard enough time dialing in on the track, driving same turn again and again near limit. No way i could notice subtle alignment/sway bar changes putt-putting around town or even spirited canyon drive. Saw my sway bar in half i might hear some rattling but thats about it
#11
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FRONT: go for -2° 30' of camber and 0 toe
BACK: choose between -2° and -2° 30' camber, adding a bit of toe (upto 0° 40' and 0° 50')
(on race tracks you should have -3°/-3° 30' front and back for a better feeling, but then you will badly affect your tyres wear running on the street)
then you can try to correct push with sway bars (softening front or stiffening the back)
a couple of trials (if you listen to the car) will be anough to understand what you like
last trial could be try 245 tyres on front (I haven't tried yet, but I will just for curiosity)
BACK: choose between -2° and -2° 30' camber, adding a bit of toe (upto 0° 40' and 0° 50')
(on race tracks you should have -3°/-3° 30' front and back for a better feeling, but then you will badly affect your tyres wear running on the street)
then you can try to correct push with sway bars (softening front or stiffening the back)
a couple of trials (if you listen to the car) will be anough to understand what you like
last trial could be try 245 tyres on front (I haven't tried yet, but I will just for curiosity)
#12
Race Director
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OP mentioned push on street driving. I have hard enough time dialing in on the track, driving same turn again and again near limit. No way i could notice subtle alignment/sway bar changes putt-putting around town or even spirited canyon drive. Saw my sway bar in half i might hear some rattling but thats about it
#13
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OP mentioned push on street driving. I have hard enough time dialing in on the track, driving same turn again and again near limit. No way i could notice subtle alignment/sway bar changes putt-putting around town or even spirited canyon drive. Saw my sway bar in half i might hear some rattling but thats about it
Maybe its our UK road setup, but I can drive my car to the limits of handling on the road, do epic power slides of roundabouts and can definetely feel the effect of changing ARB settings for sure!
I drive my and enjoy it and can push it to the limits on both road and track quite easily.
#14
Rennlist Member
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I'm no Jackie Stewart but can certainly tell these cars can push on the street. Enough to have me rush to get an alignment check within days of delivery. Dialed it up from -1.4 front (which was OEM in my particular case) to -2.0 and all was well again.