Jamie_GT3

There are a lot of philosophies on this topic.

Our clutch disk is design to explode if you money shift, supposedly saving the engine. Problem is the straps are weak in compression, the kind of loading that happens with imperfect revmatched down shifts. I'm experimenting with my 4.2L build and went with an ERP/RPS carbon/carbon clutch, way way more clutch that I need power wise, but it was the only streetable billet pressure plate option I could find. This isn't to be confused with the tiny tilton carbon racing clutches, these have almost no mass and don't slip much at all. The ERP/RPS is bigger diameter and is slippable. Lots of decent reviews in the turbo sections. I like that a with the billet pressure plate, there are no straps to worry about...

As soon as the last shim comes in and we get the new engine broken in I'll let you know my review of it...

Ideally I'd like to use this design to make an organic disk version of it, will see how the carbon/carbon goes...

LehmanZ06

I autocrossed Scott's GT3 and also did something called a Pro Solo which is a drag start.

Sorry that the clutch went south for Scott, but it was always good while I had it, but it does make sense that it would have to be replaced.

I literally never missed a downshift racing because I rarely did it while racing. Engine is and was a peach, after cam position sensor bs was fixed.

GT3 launched harder and hooked up better than the Vetts I mostly raced against.

Besides all the magazines post 0-60 times...

surlynkid

what a joke. you torched it. it was not good when you gave it to me. you likely knew it from your last few auto-x and then decided to unload it rather than spend $3500. the only way you could not have known you fried the clutch is if you were a complete idiot. you would have no way to get the power down without the clutch totally slipping. I could not even put power down in a 3 to 4 shift at 7000rpm on my first day to the track.

Mvez

and super-sticky tires that most GT3 owners are addicted to.

LehmanZ06

Clutch was fine for me. You drove the car for 20 miles. You didn't feel there was anything wrong with the car when you drove it for 20 miles by yourself following me down to my warehouse did you ?

I didn't know there was anything wrong with the clutch when I sold you the car. But I knew the car was 3 1/2 years old, and that I had another 6 months of warranty, and I knew that when the warranty was up that things are not inexpensive to fix. You saw that I had 4 rotors replaced under warranty. You saw my issues about the cam sensor. The car scared me without warranty. And since I totaled my pick up 4 months before I decided to sell the car. You had the car PPI'ed also at a shop of your choice.

You bought a 8000k mile MSRP 2010 GT3 $137,000 for $100,000 and you also got 14 extra wheels and some used tires, and my torque wrench for the wheels and my breaker bar.

Ok, you replaced a clutch and stuff that I honestly didnt know was on its way out......neither did you after driving the car 20 miles and having it PPI'ed.

On your 20 mile drive, you never accelerated hard ? Also didn't I drive the car a couple of miles with you in the passenger seat and launch it hard at least once...maybe my memory on that isn't perfect but I am sure I got on it and shifted from 1 to 2 hard. I never would shift from 3 to 4 hard so I wouldn't know. Clutch was always fine for me. But after over 100 autocrosses maybe it did need replacing.

You buy a GT3 with 8000 miles on it and you drive it 20 miles, and you don't shift it hard ? To feel it ?
It felt fine to me when I had it, and when I sold it to you.

You still got a great deal IMO

PS.....I honestly do have a buddy that is interested in buying the car from you.

CRex

Clutch a consumable like brake pads and oil. You jumping up and down over one clutch? I'm on my FOURTH 4.0 pressure plate... just the usual fare in the course of owning and using these cars.

GTgears

Gotta pay to play. Don't sit down at the table if you aren't ready to pay the bill for dinner. I see nothing nefarious or deceitful in what I am reading.

Red Bear

Crex,

How many track hours do you get on a 4.0 pressure plate. My time out log is about 50 hours so wanted to compare notes.

Thanks,

ShakeNBake

OEM part is not designed for track use, it's designed to save the engine on a miss-shift .

It's not pay to play (all of this is warranty work), there is a better option for the track.

CRex

I'm at about 30 track hours or so and that's been consistent across the recent PPs. I'd like to blame the hot weather over here but guess I don't shift as well as you do!

p.s. to be fair I swap PPs as soon as they show early sign of weakening i.e. reluctance for the shifter to come out of gear...

Mvez

His heel/toe is pretty sweet.

P.S. - try some Millers Oils. After switching to this for the past 12 track days, I'm a believer. AudiOn19's turned me on to this. The tranny feels considerably better than when using Delvac. It seems to handle heat even better. You want the non-LS version.

http://performanceracingoils.com/crx-75w90-nt-p-42.html

911GT3

What about if the car doesn't want to come out of gear even before warmed-up? Like drive it 100 yards to registration in the am, park it in reverse, come back out in 5 min and cannot get it out of reverse? Or first sometimes? Not a regular thing, but shouldn't happen at all. Should it?

SupraSaiyan

Sorry to bump an old thread but has anyone 'fixed' their sticky shifter issues?