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Must have 997 GT3/RS Upgrades

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Old 10-12-2012, 10:52 AM
  #16  
997gt3north
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Is this part of the cure?
Haven't heard anyone using this yet.

Old 10-12-2012, 10:58 AM
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M3EvoBR
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Helps a lot ...

or

Old 10-12-2012, 11:22 AM
  #18  
Nizer
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Originally Posted by M3EvoBR
Helps a lot ...

or

Yup. And both will transmit more noise but I suspect this one is a little quieter than the GMG mount based bushing material.
Old 10-12-2012, 11:32 AM
  #19  
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i have not noticed any additional cabin noise from Cup shifter cables? what would cause aditional sound?
Old 10-12-2012, 11:39 AM
  #20  
M3EvoBR
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Originally Posted by Nizer
Yup. And both will transmit more noise but I suspect this one is a little quieter than the GMG mount based bushing material.
I've installed a few of them, and to be honest the noise comes from the Cup cables and shifter, but that combo, makes shifting a much better experience.

Of course the transmission temps is another problem that needs to be addressed, as the shifting gets worse and worse over higher temps.
Old 10-12-2012, 11:46 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by M3EvoBR
Of course the transmission temps is another problem that needs to be addressed, as the shifting gets worse and worse over higher temps.
THANK YOU!! I've suspected this for a long time but haven't been able to confirm. Same issue on 996 Cups. I'm told you can put a cooler on to help address the problem.
Old 10-12-2012, 11:48 AM
  #22  
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It seems to me upgrading transmission mounts would have a greater effect than changing engine mounts. Have people found this to be true. If you change the transmission mounts how much does the noise go up? I am so far only having occasional difficulty with 2-3 shifts while tracking.
Old 10-12-2012, 12:19 PM
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M3EvoBR
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Originally Posted by Nizer
THANK YOU!! I've suspected this for a long time but haven't been able to confirm. Same issue on 996 Cups. I'm told you can put a cooler on to help address the problem.
The problem exists, period.
First step we need to monitor temps and see how long it takes, and how hot it gets, next step address the problem, either with additives like friction reducer (there is a product not yet available for public use that is proven to work) or in a higher level, a transmission cooler.
Old 10-12-2012, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by tasman
It seems to me upgrading transmission mounts would have a greater effect than changing engine mounts. Have people found this to be true. If you change the transmission mounts how much does the noise go up? I am so far only having occasional difficulty with 2-3 shifts while tracking.
Remember the engine and transmisson are one piece once in the car, need both to reduce mass roll and movement.
Not significant the amount of noise transmitted to the cabin.
Is a lot less than cup at shifter and cables.
Old 10-12-2012, 12:26 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by tasman
It seems to me upgrading transmission mounts would have a greater effect than changing engine mounts. Have people found this to be true. If you change the transmission mounts how much does the noise go up? I am so far only having occasional difficulty with 2-3 shifts while tracking.
I thought it was just me who couldnt get into 3-2 downshift. Sometimes it just wouldnt go in smd i felt like i was trying to jam it in. So i took some turns on neutral only happened 2-3 times out of 5 session day.
Old 10-12-2012, 01:01 PM
  #26  
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I actually have more of a problem going from 2 to 3 in one particular turn at Road America. Would just not go into gear (no grinding or anything). Would just have to hesitate a second and then slipped right in. Did not do it every time either. Downshift has not been a problem (yet).
Old 10-12-2012, 06:17 PM
  #27  
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"Pedals: The OE pedal arrangement made it very difficult for me to execute proper down-shifts"

Can you elaborate on what is required to lower the height of the brake pedal ?

I completely agree the height differential w/ the gas pedal is too much for heel-toe.

Many thanks,
Matthew
Old 10-12-2012, 06:28 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by M3EvoBR
The problem exists, period.
First step we need to monitor temps and see how long it takes, and how hot it gets, next step address the problem, either with additives like friction reducer (there is a product not yet available for public use that is proven to work) or in a higher level, a transmission cooler.
Originally Posted by Nizer
THANK YOU!! I've suspected this for a long time but haven't been able to confirm. Same issue on 996 Cups. I'm told you can put a cooler on to help address the problem.
I spoke with Matt at Guard about this particular issue. He said the problem is the stock LSD in the GT3/RS for .1 and .2 are never completely locked and create enormous heat in the the tranny... He said all of the racing programs he works with use the stock tranny cooler but a much upgraded LSD and their tranny fluid doesn't burn like ours does...

So, to that end I think the first upgrade path is a LSD upgrade, then if you're still seeing black tranny fluid and short fluid exchange intervals, we look into addressing the problem with some data analysis and an uprated oil cooler...
Old 10-12-2012, 08:38 PM
  #29  
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Jamie knows his stuff ...
Old 10-12-2012, 09:09 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Matrog
"Pedals: The OE pedal arrangement made it very difficult for me to execute proper down-shifts"

Can you elaborate on what is required to lower the height of the brake pedal ?

I completely agree the height differential w/ the gas pedal is too much for heel-toe.

Many thanks,
Matthew
I used to think the same thing and put a throttle pedal extension on. Had it up as high as it would go in fact. But when I started getting faster on track and using the brakes more to their potential I lowered it back to the level of the stock pedal. May not even need it at all now.


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