Need some advice on tires for my RS?
10-01-2012, 05:30 PM
#17
1) 40psi HOT all 4 corners - some people swear by this, Hoosier talks about this, many, many on this board think this is crazy
2) 33f,36r HOT - something like this seems to be were Most people fall
3) 30psi HOT all 4 corners - some of the fastest guys on here, especially in warmer climates, but certainly not all, like 30psi HOT all corners. Others here would say that you can get a funny wear pattern (rippling) if you do this.
I have run 40Hot and my personal taste is that if feels slippery, most often I have run with choice #2 - I have also tried 30psi Hot all corners and really liked it.
In terms of alignment for a track only setup on Hoosiers that also varies but on 12" rear rims it would seem that the very aggressive rear numbers of old have been reduced. Clearly it is skill and track related but the general track setups seem to be:
1) Extreme Track Only Setup (non slicks)
- don't see many doing this
-3f,with 1mm per side toe-out
-2.5r with 2mm per side toe-in
2) Track Only (non slicks)
-2.8f, with zero toe
-2.3r, with 2mm per side toe-in
3) Mostly Track / Occasional coffee run
-2.5f, zero toe
-1.9r, 2mm per side toe in
4) 50/50 Track / Street (hybrid)
-2.3f, 1/16th toe-in per side
-1.7r, 2mm per side toe in
There seems to be some honest debate even among pure track cars if anything more than -1.9 rear camber is required on a 12" rim with 325 type rear width tires unless you go with Slicks. So, somewhere in the 2 - 3 range above you will find, in my experience, most Track setups on the GT3/RS of the last few years - depending on local track feedback / tire wear etc.
I have no idea about a setup on the track you mentioned but someone here definitely will.
If I had to pick one alignment given what you have said in your post, I would say start with #3 (you will like it for sure) and start with the #2psi recommendations and go from there - then try higher and then lower
10-01-2012, 06:12 PM
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
There are 3 very different philosophies about Hoosier R6s by people on this board - I would say given your own experience with these tires you will already have an opinion:
1) 40psi HOT all 4 corners - some people swear by this, Hoosier talks about this, many, many on this board think this is crazy
2) 33f,36r HOT - something like this seems to be were Most people fall
3) 30psi HOT all 4 corners - some of the fastest guys on here, especially in warmer climates, but certainly not all, like 30psi HOT all corners. Others here would say that you can get a funny wear pattern (rippling) if you do this.
I have run 40Hot and my personal taste is that if feels slippery, most often I have run with choice #2 - I have also tried 30psi Hot all corners and really liked it.
In terms of alignment for a track only setup on Hoosiers that also varies but on 12" rear rims it would seem that the very aggressive rear numbers of old have been reduced. Clearly it is skill and track related but the general track setups seem to be:
1) Extreme Track Only Setup (non slicks)
- don't see many doing this
-3f,with 1mm per side toe-out
-2.5r with 2mm per side toe-in
2) Track Only (non slicks)
-2.8f, with zero toe
-2.3r, with 2mm per side toe-in
3) Mostly Track / Occasional coffee run
-2.5f, zero toe
-1.9r, 2mm per side toe in
4) 50/50 Track / Street (hybrid)
-2.3f, 1/16th toe-in per side
-1.7r, 2mm per side toe in
There seems to be some honest debate even among pure track cars if anything more than -1.9 rear camber is required on a 12" rim with 325 type rear width tires unless you go with Slicks. So, somewhere in the 2 - 3 range above you will find, in my experience, most Track setups on the GT3/RS of the last few years - depending on local track feedback / tire wear etc.
I have no idea about a setup on the track you mentioned but someone here definitely will.
If I had to pick one alignment given what you have said in your post, I would say start with #3 (you will like it for sure) and start with the #2psi recommendations and go from there - then try higher and then lower
1) 40psi HOT all 4 corners - some people swear by this, Hoosier talks about this, many, many on this board think this is crazy
2) 33f,36r HOT - something like this seems to be were Most people fall
3) 30psi HOT all 4 corners - some of the fastest guys on here, especially in warmer climates, but certainly not all, like 30psi HOT all corners. Others here would say that you can get a funny wear pattern (rippling) if you do this.
I have run 40Hot and my personal taste is that if feels slippery, most often I have run with choice #2 - I have also tried 30psi Hot all corners and really liked it.
In terms of alignment for a track only setup on Hoosiers that also varies but on 12" rear rims it would seem that the very aggressive rear numbers of old have been reduced. Clearly it is skill and track related but the general track setups seem to be:
1) Extreme Track Only Setup (non slicks)
- don't see many doing this
-3f,with 1mm per side toe-out
-2.5r with 2mm per side toe-in
2) Track Only (non slicks)
-2.8f, with zero toe
-2.3r, with 2mm per side toe-in
3) Mostly Track / Occasional coffee run
-2.5f, zero toe
-1.9r, 2mm per side toe in
4) 50/50 Track / Street (hybrid)
-2.3f, 1/16th toe-in per side
-1.7r, 2mm per side toe in
There seems to be some honest debate even among pure track cars if anything more than -1.9 rear camber is required on a 12" rim with 325 type rear width tires unless you go with Slicks. So, somewhere in the 2 - 3 range above you will find, in my experience, most Track setups on the GT3/RS of the last few years - depending on local track feedback / tire wear etc.
I have no idea about a setup on the track you mentioned but someone here definitely will.
If I had to pick one alignment given what you have said in your post, I would say start with #3 (you will like it for sure) and start with the #2psi recommendations and go from there - then try higher and then lower
SW
10-01-2012, 06:30 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
^this is right
I run at 38 hot on R6 and get good life out of them and even wear
I used to run the lower pressures (32-33 hot) and found that the tire was rolling over a little... faster and better wear characteristics at higher pressures IMHO but over 38 and they get loose quick
if you are not budget conscious, the michelin cup slick is the way to go... unreal grip but alignment specs need to set to get the most out of them. I have used a few sets of these and they are simply the best I have experienced and as to their "letting go" with no warning... that has not been my experience... I feel they are manageable. they are about $2500 per set though which is what it is. I dont smoke a lot of crack but when I do, I want the best crack :-)
I run at 38 hot on R6 and get good life out of them and even wear
I used to run the lower pressures (32-33 hot) and found that the tire was rolling over a little... faster and better wear characteristics at higher pressures IMHO but over 38 and they get loose quick
if you are not budget conscious, the michelin cup slick is the way to go... unreal grip but alignment specs need to set to get the most out of them. I have used a few sets of these and they are simply the best I have experienced and as to their "letting go" with no warning... that has not been my experience... I feel they are manageable. they are about $2500 per set though which is what it is. I dont smoke a lot of crack but when I do, I want the best crack :-)
10-01-2012, 06:39 PM
#21
Nordschleife Master
^this is right
I run at 38 hot on R6 and get good life out of them and even wear
I used to run the lower pressures (32-33 hot) and found that the tire was rolling over a little... faster and better wear characteristics at higher pressures IMHO but over 38 and they get loose quick
if you are not budget conscious, the michelin cup slick is the way to go... unreal grip but alignment specs need to set to get the most out of them. I have used a few sets of these and they are simply the best I have experienced and as to their "letting go" with no warning... that has not been my experience... I feel they are manageable. they are about $2500 per set though which is what it is. I dont smoke a lot of crack but when I do, I want the best crack :-)
I run at 38 hot on R6 and get good life out of them and even wear
I used to run the lower pressures (32-33 hot) and found that the tire was rolling over a little... faster and better wear characteristics at higher pressures IMHO but over 38 and they get loose quick
if you are not budget conscious, the michelin cup slick is the way to go... unreal grip but alignment specs need to set to get the most out of them. I have used a few sets of these and they are simply the best I have experienced and as to their "letting go" with no warning... that has not been my experience... I feel they are manageable. they are about $2500 per set though which is what it is. I dont smoke a lot of crack but when I do, I want the best crack :-)
If one runs slicks they need to solid mount the car, slick grip will destroy a rubber mounted car.
Esentially if it is a car on slicks you now start going by cup car "time out" schedules for maintenance
The less grip on the tire teh longer parts will last (and less likely have a massive failure)
If Nitto comes out with a NT01 that fits our car I will go that way (once I run out of RA1). If not I might try the new Toyo R-comp slick
As far as hoosiers I have seen way too many tire splits ect.....I am not convinced it is designed to take multiple heat cycles in 20-25 minute groupings. More designed for a longer race than parked
10-01-2012, 07:20 PM
#22
Drifting
I went from the Michelin sport cups to the Trofeo's and was impressed by the added grip with the Pirelli's. watch you tire pressures, like others there are many opinions on what works best.
my 0.02
BTW AWESOME garage and contents!!
my 0.02
BTW AWESOME garage and contents!!
10-01-2012, 07:57 PM
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
SW You'll be fine on R6s, you have more than enough seat time in your other cars to have the "feel" to make proper adjustments.
Get some RSS Toe Links for the rear to help keep things in alignment. If you're going to track it a bunch and want to go all out (like you usually do) check out some of their control arms and other suspension bits that are a great addition if you're going to be on slicks.
Get some RSS Toe Links for the rear to help keep things in alignment. If you're going to track it a bunch and want to go all out (like you usually do) check out some of their control arms and other suspension bits that are a great addition if you're going to be on slicks.
Got to get good with it, I think the road race part of TX2K is going to be at TWS...^this is right
I run at 38 hot on R6 and get good life out of them and even wear
I used to run the lower pressures (32-33 hot) and found that the tire was rolling over a little... faster and better wear characteristics at higher pressures IMHO but over 38 and they get loose quick
if you are not budget conscious, the michelin cup slick is the way to go... unreal grip but alignment specs need to set to get the most out of them. I have used a few sets of these and they are simply the best I have experienced and as to their "letting go" with no warning... that has not been my experience... I feel they are manageable. they are about $2500 per set though which is what it is. I dont smoke a lot of crack but when I do, I want the best crack :-)
I run at 38 hot on R6 and get good life out of them and even wear
I used to run the lower pressures (32-33 hot) and found that the tire was rolling over a little... faster and better wear characteristics at higher pressures IMHO but over 38 and they get loose quick
if you are not budget conscious, the michelin cup slick is the way to go... unreal grip but alignment specs need to set to get the most out of them. I have used a few sets of these and they are simply the best I have experienced and as to their "letting go" with no warning... that has not been my experience... I feel they are manageable. they are about $2500 per set though which is what it is. I dont smoke a lot of crack but when I do, I want the best crack :-)
10-01-2012, 08:02 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
Only probelm with sticky tires is the more stick they have the more stress you put on a suspension, axle, hub ect
If one runs slicks they need to solid mount the car, slick grip will destroy a rubber mounted car.
Esentially if it is a car on slicks you now start going by cup car "time out" schedules for maintenance
The less grip on the tire teh longer parts will last (and less likely have a massive failure)
If Nitto comes out with a NT01 that fits our car I will go that way (once I run out of RA1). If not I might try the new Toyo R-comp slick
As far as hoosiers I have seen way too many tire splits ect.....I am not convinced it is designed to take multiple heat cycles in 20-25 minute groupings. More designed for a longer race than parked
If one runs slicks they need to solid mount the car, slick grip will destroy a rubber mounted car.
Esentially if it is a car on slicks you now start going by cup car "time out" schedules for maintenance
The less grip on the tire teh longer parts will last (and less likely have a massive failure)
If Nitto comes out with a NT01 that fits our car I will go that way (once I run out of RA1). If not I might try the new Toyo R-comp slick
As far as hoosiers I have seen way too many tire splits ect.....I am not convinced it is designed to take multiple heat cycles in 20-25 minute groupings. More designed for a longer race than parked
10-01-2012, 08:21 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
Only probelm with sticky tires is the more stick they have the more stress you put on a suspension, axle, hub ect
If one runs slicks they need to solid mount the car, slick grip will destroy a rubber mounted car.
Esentially if it is a car on slicks you now start going by cup car "time out" schedules for maintenance
The less grip on the tire teh longer parts will last (and less likely have a massive failure)
If one runs slicks they need to solid mount the car, slick grip will destroy a rubber mounted car.
Esentially if it is a car on slicks you now start going by cup car "time out" schedules for maintenance
The less grip on the tire teh longer parts will last (and less likely have a massive failure)
I often overlook solid mounting the car as for me it is just part of GT3 tracking... solid mounting and guard diff...
I mainly run R6s but when I get a hankering, I buy a set of slicks...
10-01-2012, 08:23 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
Anybody ever try some V710's? They make a 315-35-18...rumor is they last longer than R6's, but aren't quite as fast.
I was at a Mid-Ohio school earlier this year when a fellow rennlister had some (.2RS), they looked like they run big. Didn't get a chance to chat with him about the tires though.
I was at a Mid-Ohio school earlier this year when a fellow rennlister had some (.2RS), they looked like they run big. Didn't get a chance to chat with him about the tires though.
10-01-2012, 09:04 PM
#28
Nordschleife Master
10-01-2012, 09:25 PM
#29
Drifting
18" 255/35 and 335/30 R6 with just toe links - that is all you need:
I run typical track setup (only part replacement necessary is toe-links), run R6 at 30 hot and I get 30+hc out of them. FWIW, my 2010 has over 15k track miles on it, all on R6, no suspension part failures (i.e. solid mounts and all that extra suspension stuff is not necessary). And those that have run with me know I am not taking it easy nor am I slow.
I run typical track setup (only part replacement necessary is toe-links), run R6 at 30 hot and I get 30+hc out of them. FWIW, my 2010 has over 15k track miles on it, all on R6, no suspension part failures (i.e. solid mounts and all that extra suspension stuff is not necessary). And those that have run with me know I am not taking it easy nor am I slow.
10-01-2012, 10:07 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
