get get rear centerlock off !!!
#46
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I figured this out after my buddy came over and helped me, I had driven the car for like 20 min regular and he was able to get them off. I am sure I would have been able also. But when I tried they were ice cold for 3 days.
#47
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Hi.
I've had this issue a few times.
Even while using a 4 ft piece of pipe over my breaker bar, I've had trouble getting a CL off every so often.
I'm only 150 lbs, so lacked the mass that some others have.
I looked pretty ridiculous bouncing on that thing.
But I came up with a solution my first time out.
After an hour of sweat and effort, and just as I was about to give up, it hit me...
It's simple.
I took the pipe off and put the breaker bar (only 18" handle) in the "pull up" position.
Then I simply put my jack under the handle and gave it a few pumps.
Done.
BTW, a 3/4 breaker bar is only $20 at Harbor Freight. The piece of pipe from Home Depot is about $15.
For $35, you get a "telescopic" breaker for 1/10 of that other one that some seem so enamored with, and no need to invest in a torque multiplier.
-Alex-
I've had this issue a few times.
Even while using a 4 ft piece of pipe over my breaker bar, I've had trouble getting a CL off every so often.
I'm only 150 lbs, so lacked the mass that some others have.
I looked pretty ridiculous bouncing on that thing.
But I came up with a solution my first time out.
After an hour of sweat and effort, and just as I was about to give up, it hit me...
It's simple.
I took the pipe off and put the breaker bar (only 18" handle) in the "pull up" position.
Then I simply put my jack under the handle and gave it a few pumps.
Done.
BTW, a 3/4 breaker bar is only $20 at Harbor Freight. The piece of pipe from Home Depot is about $15.
For $35, you get a "telescopic" breaker for 1/10 of that other one that some seem so enamored with, and no need to invest in a torque multiplier.
-Alex-
I'll apologize in advance for the following rebuttal. Nothing personal, just a general caution to fellow centerlock suffers.
A floor jack can apply hundreds of pounds of force that the flex of the breaker bar can "store" so that all the effort to get that energy stored in the bar can be released in less than a second, propelling the bar any distance -- the whole bar might just flop up in the air and land, or one end of the bar might accelerate sharply into your kneecap. It's an "anything can happen" boobytrap.
I realize it's probably quite stable and unlikely to cause chaos. Keeping in mind the situation is where someone is already having trouble and trying to apply excess force, and it's a job that has to be done and repeated on each wheel to remove, torque, release, torque ... that operation could be occur at least twice per day for tire change ... surely the goal is speed and consistency ... moving a floor jack here and there to exert 600nm over and over just doesn't add up to a fun (or safe) day a the track.
Even if it's just a rare problem-solver, it's still an uncontrolled contraption that can turn ugly if the car moves an inch before the tension releases through the nut.
Harbor Freight is synonymous with extraordinary low-priced, "Made in China" junk tools that leak and break. Sure, I have all kinds of things from HF, but nothing that, if it failed, could injure me or any chance passersby. I'm all for choosing cost-effective solutions (my brake pedal depressor is a carpenter's Irwin clamp) but that doesn't extend to compromising safety or risking damaging the car.
Once you're tracking a $100K +/- car at risk of total loss, once you're working with your own health (your spine) and safety it's the height of false economy to be saving $100 or $1000 on one-time purchases.
The USA is still a somewhat free country, so everyone is entitled to their own risk tolerances, but I'd not want anyone to take advice they've read on Rennlist and end up posting here to report how they damaged the centerlock nut or the whole thing slipped on their floor jack and sent metal tools into contact with paint and body. Or worse.