Laertes

I need to replace the front pads on my PCCB equipped '11 RS, and won't be able to do it until I get to the track this weekend and will have to do it in the pits. I want to make sure I have all the tools I'll need but can't see with the wheels in place how to remove the retaining bolt that holds the spring and pads in place. On my old C2S there was a cotter pin that needed to be pulled and then the retaining bolt could be tapped out with a hammer and punch. The design on the RS is clearly different. Is there a cotter pin hiding back there that I can't see without removing the wheels, or is there some other method of fixing the bolt in place? I looked at Mikyu's post on rotor replacement but don't see an explanation of how to get the bolt out.

Also, on my old car the retaining spring wasn't that stiff and I could compress it by hand to get the retaining bolt back in; is the spring on the RS stiffer? I've seen the wood block trick to compress it, so I'll probably go that route.

Anyway, here are the tools I'll have on hand in my kit; am I missing anything?

Giant breaker bar
Giant torque wrench
Jack
Needle nose pliers
Girodisc pad spreader
hammer
punch
super special Castrol wheel hub grease
screwdriver to pry off pad wear sensors

Thanks!

flyingpenguin

On the 997.1 with PCCB's, the pin is held in place by a 13mm hex screw on the inside of the caliper. Not sure if yours is the same, but presume it is.
I was able to pry the pin out by hand (after the screw came out :-)). The retaining clip is pretty stiff, but can be compressed sufficiently by hand to get the pin out.

drl

It is a spring clip held by a pin. If you dont have the spring tool you can position a 2x4 between your inner knee and the clip. While applying pressure, reach into wheel well with both hands to tap out screw. Sounds weird but easy. The pin bolt is 13 mm, and it is torqued to 23ft lbs. You dont really need the spring clip, so leaving it out makes future pad swaps much easier.

Laertes

OK. I assume the 13mm hex screw has a female head, so I need to bring a socket set with a 13mm hex male bit? And my normal size torque wrench, apparently. Thanks for the torque spec.

How do you tap out the retaining bolt? Can you turn the wheels enough to get a hammer and some sort of punch back there to get it out?

drl

You will need female socket.

To get pin out, get ready for some yoga moves! First turn wheel all the way to expose back of caliper. Have tools and 2x4 ready on the floor. For right wheel - kneel on right knee, with other inner knee ready to apply pressure to the 2x4 (about a foot long) against the spring clip. Use a screwdriver to contact pin and a small hammer or big weench to tap. Once you put pressure on the pin lean in and a couple quick tap taps - and you are done.

Derek@TRG

Its a 13mm head on an M8bolt. You will need a 13mm socket, not a 13mm male hex(allen) head tool.

To slide the retaining pin out you need to apply forward pressure to the spring retainer,just like you mentioned , with the right amount of forward pressure the retainer will slide out pretty easily. I wouldnt get a hammer and punch anywhere near a set of ceramic rotors!!

Good Luck!! im sure once you get in there you will have no problems!

drl

I do not see a small hammer posing much more of a threat to the rotors than all the other tools/wrenches that get up in the wheel wells...not to mention the wheels themselves during r&r.

Speaking of that - laertes, this is the biggest threat to your rotors. There is that 3r racing tool (fondly called the big red *****) which can help getting the wheels on and off. I bought one and used it a few times. For a wheel change process that takes long enough already, this thing only add time. And it manages to get the castrol goo all over its threads, thereby robbing the threaded hubs of the grease. To remove wheels, i use both hands on top of wheel spokes and position my lower leg against the lower part of the wheel. Then slide it off all in one movemet, shoe sliding across the floor. To apply rear wheels i will often sit on the ground, legs straight under car and put the wheel in my lap right in front of the hub - now all u need to do is line it up and a little lift onto the hub. Front wheels are light enough that all of that is usually not needed.

Laertes

Guys--

Thanks for all the advice. I think I've got it. I've done a few wheel swaps (and actually do have the *****-y wheel hanger) and am comfortable with that, but haven't done a pad swap. I'm pretty confident it won't be a problem after your tips.

Cheers!

C6 ZED

"screwdriver to pry off pad wear sensors"

I'll be interested in hearing how this worked for you. Every time I've tried to CAREFULLY remove these suckers, the bakelite portion that fits in the pad groove breaks - it's very brittle due to heat cycling I suppose. Stupid choice of materials IMHO unless Porsche is trying to sell the wear sensor cable units. Good luck with these

flyingpenguin

If you've swapped pads on modern Carrera's, you'll do just fine!

Joost