Paul2x

Yep, it's all about design/ mounting points (shear points) .

931 is larger dia tubing and has much better mounting points- but comes at a higher cost and more weight (68lbs vs 43lbs)

really comes down to what your doing w/ the car.

mdrums

I have 931 bar... Very well designed and built....little tight with sunroof and I thought I should have bought the 930 bar

wanna911

I'm looking at something from here: http://www.safetydevices.com/motorsp...1998-2004/442/


Similar to the clubsport full cage but you don't have to bend over to get one. Have seen a few of them in person, quality made bits.

George from MD

I have the same question as the OP but a few more- do I have to cut carpet to fit any of these? Why the beef against Vivid Racing? Their rollbar looks more unique than any of the others and being able remove the center bars (if only to clean the rear window) would be a plus IMO. I had a DAS on my previous track car (a 993) and really liked it- installed very easily. But getting to the rear window was next to impossible.

Anything you guys can add would be appreciated.

wanna911

I think most people think of safety first when it comes to roll bars, not how unique it is or convenient. The trust factor with Vivid racing is not high as they have a reputation for some sub par products, and just plain copies of other products which is not good if it's not tested and developed.

brim

RSS has been flawless for me!

RS GT3 RS

Anyone here knowing the weight between all the different ones.

RSRanger

Paul thanks for the exact specs on the weight differential. I was trying to find out.

Ranger (Sua Sponte)

RAudi Driver

Seeing as both the weld in bar and the bolt in bar are bolted at the front, I don't see how the bolt in bar is dangerous and life threatening.

With one you weld in plates then bolt to the plate. With the other type, you bolt into a piece of metal that is part of the car. I realize that there is a difference, but to what extent, safety wise? If there a record of bolt in bars failing?

mooty

no, you got the right bar. you want it as tight as you can get. most pre made bars are not tight enough. you want it to push up the headliner and touch the roof. no aftermkt bar really does that unless custom. same goes with the clearance to the B pillar.

mooty

they are not life threatening. they are all better than none. but you asked which is better.
bolt to a plate vs bolt to car. force distribution is a factor.
they all have compromises. so each person pick differently
as one poster stated the wt difference. if you do AX, you need lighter bar. if you track, the extra 20lbs isnt going to many any difference.

some bars have eye bolts drilled into bar. it is a stress riser if you run FEA. will that make bar fail? probably not. but given a choice, i dont like eyebolt in the bar. i just wrap strap on bar itself.

some times even the direction of the bolt makes a difference. this is hare to explain and i dont know how to draw pix on computer....

mdrums

Thanks Mooty...that is exactly what my RSS bar does.

RAudi Driver

Thanks Mooty for the wealth of info. What bar are you running?

With all you've said, I think one can't go wrong with the RSS 931 bar. I spoke with Mike down there and if I have them do the install, I think I'll have the plates welded in.

mooty

i run a custom bar that requires a LOT of welding into the car. for the sane ppl, RSS is plenty strong.

RAudi Driver

If you purchased an off the shelf bar, which one would it be? RSS, GMG (probably not as it has the eye bolts), Tequipment if you can find one?