Help with next step modding my GT3
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Help with next step modding my GT3
Thanks to everyone for all the help so far.
I have a 2010 gt3 I purchased new. I originally thought it would be mostly for street with light track use. After my first DE, I was very interested in learning to drive at speed, and took two of the 2-day Porsche driving school programs and three of the Mid Ohio School Programs as well as multiple additional DE events over the next two years. Once the car became track use only, I bought a Trailex, then a better tow vehicle, and now realize the RS would have been a better choice. But, I love this car, and for awhile there will be much more car than driver, so I don't plan on moving to an RS quite yet (though I did see the Orbit car!).
Current mods are:
GT2 lightweight seats, DAS rollbar, OZ Superforgiattas, Schroth harnesses, SRP pedals, GMG center muffler delete pipe, RaceChrono monitor.
My next thought is moving to a lighter battery--one of the aftermarket lithiums. And, I plan on having the car corner balanced.
I have PCCBs, but run StopTech rotors with Endless ME20 pads. Mostly using MPSCs. I also have dynamic engine mounts. Front camber is -2.0, and other settings are stock.
What should my next performance mod be? I assume suspension?
I have a 2010 gt3 I purchased new. I originally thought it would be mostly for street with light track use. After my first DE, I was very interested in learning to drive at speed, and took two of the 2-day Porsche driving school programs and three of the Mid Ohio School Programs as well as multiple additional DE events over the next two years. Once the car became track use only, I bought a Trailex, then a better tow vehicle, and now realize the RS would have been a better choice. But, I love this car, and for awhile there will be much more car than driver, so I don't plan on moving to an RS quite yet (though I did see the Orbit car!).
Current mods are:
GT2 lightweight seats, DAS rollbar, OZ Superforgiattas, Schroth harnesses, SRP pedals, GMG center muffler delete pipe, RaceChrono monitor.
My next thought is moving to a lighter battery--one of the aftermarket lithiums. And, I plan on having the car corner balanced.
I have PCCBs, but run StopTech rotors with Endless ME20 pads. Mostly using MPSCs. I also have dynamic engine mounts. Front camber is -2.0, and other settings are stock.
What should my next performance mod be? I assume suspension?
#3
Rennlist Member
Let's make a double deal for a couple of RSs somewhere!
Kidding aside...you need a more aggressive track alignment and start running Hoosier R6. Alignment should roughly be -3.0 camber and neutral toe in the front, caster 8 degrees, -2.5 camber and 0.4-0.5 deg total toe in in the rear.
Better handling at higher speeds and cornering could also be achieved by RSS or GMG rear dogbones and adjustable toe steer kit with locking plates. You may also consider a front adjustable toe/bump steer kit.
Honestly, short of adding a lightweight flywheel there's not a lot of extras that will really increase performance for the buck.
Look for an RS with me.
Kidding aside...you need a more aggressive track alignment and start running Hoosier R6. Alignment should roughly be -3.0 camber and neutral toe in the front, caster 8 degrees, -2.5 camber and 0.4-0.5 deg total toe in in the rear.
Better handling at higher speeds and cornering could also be achieved by RSS or GMG rear dogbones and adjustable toe steer kit with locking plates. You may also consider a front adjustable toe/bump steer kit.
Honestly, short of adding a lightweight flywheel there's not a lot of extras that will really increase performance for the buck.
Look for an RS with me.
#4
Rennlist Member
Lwfw immediately
Cup cables
Guard diff while car is in the shop
Regear
Rss Tarmac kit or the like
This will all add up to a switch to r6 since you are trailering
And just like that you drop 5 or so seconds per lap on a 2 minute track
Of course be ready for a lot of - "spend the money on pro instruction" responses...
Cup cables
Guard diff while car is in the shop
Regear
Rss Tarmac kit or the like
This will all add up to a switch to r6 since you are trailering
And just like that you drop 5 or so seconds per lap on a 2 minute track
Of course be ready for a lot of - "spend the money on pro instruction" responses...
#5
Rennlist Member
Suspension, alignment, different tires since you have trailer.
Then put your money towards track time and consumables. Pretty much where I am. 2 sets of track wherls is nice too.
Then put your money towards track time and consumables. Pretty much where I am. 2 sets of track wherls is nice too.
#6
Addict
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Hire a coach. Let him lap the car, if he's 2 secs a lap faster than you, or even more on a 2:00 minutes lap, or 1 sec faster on a 60 secs lap, you could spend the next $20,000 trying to make the car faster to even out the Coach lap times. Then the Coach will likely beat you again in the modified car.
Dump the MPSC, and start running R6.
If you are not confident to push the limits, stop by a local autocross, share the ride with a very experience autocrosser, if the autocrosser puts 1 sec faster lap times than you, you have a lot of work to do, so modding the car will only make it slightly faster, and sometimes slower.
I would erase the side mufflers, and go back to the stock center muffler, saves lots of weight, and improves handling.
LW battery, the Porsche OEM Li-Ion.
Dump the MPSC, and start running R6.
If you are not confident to push the limits, stop by a local autocross, share the ride with a very experience autocrosser, if the autocrosser puts 1 sec faster lap times than you, you have a lot of work to do, so modding the car will only make it slightly faster, and sometimes slower.
I would erase the side mufflers, and go back to the stock center muffler, saves lots of weight, and improves handling.
LW battery, the Porsche OEM Li-Ion.
#7
Hire a coach. Let him lap the car, if he's 2 secs a lap faster than you, or even more on a 2:00 minutes lap, or 1 sec faster on a 60 secs lap, you could spend the next $20,000 trying to make the car faster to even out the Coach lap times. Then the Coach will likely beat you again in the modified car.
Dump the MPSC, and start running R6.
If you are not confident to push the limits, stop by a local autocross, share the ride with a very experience autocrosser, if the autocrosser puts 1 sec faster lap times than you, you have a lot of work to do, so modding the car will only make it slightly faster, and sometimes slower.
I would erase the side mufflers, and go back to the stock center muffler, saves lots of weight, and improves handling.
LW battery, the Porsche OEM Li-Ion.
Dump the MPSC, and start running R6.
If you are not confident to push the limits, stop by a local autocross, share the ride with a very experience autocrosser, if the autocrosser puts 1 sec faster lap times than you, you have a lot of work to do, so modding the car will only make it slightly faster, and sometimes slower.
I would erase the side mufflers, and go back to the stock center muffler, saves lots of weight, and improves handling.
LW battery, the Porsche OEM Li-Ion.
Until you are 1s or thereabouts from a competitive time (for the car), modifications are a waste of money. Its also much more satisfying when you do a 2:00 "on the limit" than a 2:00 in a modified car well within the capabilities of the car.
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#8
Burning Brakes
You're going down a slipper slope with a well set-up car for DEs.
I was in your same place in my 997.2 GT3. Same mods except I had Tarett rear toe links instead of your OZ's and a Cup front lip and rebuilt LSD. You NEED a Cup front lip - cheap and much improved down force for turn-ins.
Strongly consider an RS. My next mods were going to be LWFW, regearing, CF Wing. The RS had all of this going for it already.
I was in your same place in my 997.2 GT3. Same mods except I had Tarett rear toe links instead of your OZ's and a Cup front lip and rebuilt LSD. You NEED a Cup front lip - cheap and much improved down force for turn-ins.
Strongly consider an RS. My next mods were going to be LWFW, regearing, CF Wing. The RS had all of this going for it already.
#10
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A corner balance and proper alignment make sense.
You will want adjustable rear toe links and front/rear sway bar links to lock in the alignment and allow the ride height to be lowered. Also a good time to add monoball ends,monoball bearings, thrust arm bushings and adjustable rear upper control arms.
A proper LSD is a mod you will also notice as the factory unit only lasts approx 10 track days...
With a trailer, it would be a nice time to start using R6 tires on your track wheels.
After learning the car with these mods you could always step up to a 3.8RS or 4.0LRS to gain a little extra power and better gearing but the good news is that all your mods can be transfered to another car
You will want adjustable rear toe links and front/rear sway bar links to lock in the alignment and allow the ride height to be lowered. Also a good time to add monoball ends,monoball bearings, thrust arm bushings and adjustable rear upper control arms.
A proper LSD is a mod you will also notice as the factory unit only lasts approx 10 track days...
With a trailer, it would be a nice time to start using R6 tires on your track wheels.
After learning the car with these mods you could always step up to a 3.8RS or 4.0LRS to gain a little extra power and better gearing but the good news is that all your mods can be transfered to another car
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thank you for all of this feedback. I joined a track club this year, and have been able to get alot more track time. I improved 2s per lap on a track where 1:20 is fairly fast, and more recently still improving though plateauing on gains with a decrease of 0.3s yesterday. I know I still have lots of room to grow in this car. I have access to a good coach at the track, at a cost of 500.00 per day. I can get coaching for free at the DEs, but a professional coach is likely the way to go. Is that price typical?
#13
Thank you for all of this feedback. I joined a track club this year, and have been able to get alot more track time. I improved 2s per lap on a track where 1:20 is fairly fast, and more recently still improving though plateauing on gains with a decrease of 0.3s yesterday. I know I still have lots of room to grow in this car. I have access to a good coach at the track, at a cost of 500.00 per day. I can get coaching for free at the DEs, but a professional coach is likely the way to go. Is that price typical?
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Once you've done 100+ laps in the car, hire a coach. See what he does and what he tells you, and how you compare with regards to him. Buy a laptimer, because "feeling" is not good neough. If the coach blows you away (on a 1:20 lap anything over 1s) then you need to learn, practice, then hire him again after another 100 laps.
#15
Rennlist Member
I repeat
Working diff (guard)
Cup cables (do not add speed but fell better and remove plastic)
Rss tarmac kit
Drive drive drive
$500 per day for the coach is good if he is helping you improve
Working diff (guard)
Cup cables (do not add speed but fell better and remove plastic)
Rss tarmac kit
Drive drive drive
$500 per day for the coach is good if he is helping you improve