Question for the DE guys who run Hoosiers?
03-08-2012, 04:21 PM
#91
Rennlist Member
There you go again, badmouthing GT3DT.
03-08-2012, 07:30 PM
#94
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yes, Vodka is good for laptimes, less bloaded. DE adrenaline is best hangover cure I know, just shake off the dizzynes and you're good. I'm only hungover out of the car.
Sure is, followed closely by food. You have to pick your friends, they are easy to recognise, they bring Vodka and beer.
LOL! Is Nick offering Coaching for a fee yet?
Even on Hoosiers your 2:23 is fast in your car, on hoosiers 2:22 is very fast. I think your goal is a good one, doable but hard! I think to keep up, you need slicks or more cheater parts. Neither Randy or me went faster then 2:23 in GT3 on RA1's. So I think you are closer than you think.
Sure is, followed closely by food. You have to pick your friends, they are easy to recognise, they bring Vodka and beer.
LOL! Is Nick offering Coaching for a fee yet?
Even on Hoosiers your 2:23 is fast in your car, on hoosiers 2:22 is very fast. I think your goal is a good one, doable but hard! I think to keep up, you need slicks or more cheater parts. Neither Randy or me went faster then 2:23 in GT3 on RA1's. So I think you are closer than you think.
Agreed. I spent a few on-track sessions (with huge and slow traffic) with him 14 months ago. He has the skills, his lines are clean and solid, but as you said it's all about entry speed and comfort. And frankly, as others have said there is nothing wrong with that. A good dude who is having lots of fun, and has gotten pretty danged quick!
I would call Damon at Tire Rack. I'm running 18's and have no idea on 19" sizing. It is my understanding there is a 19" fitment.
03-08-2012, 08:10 PM
#95
That's like me...comfort zone....my car with a pro driver can do a 2:26 but I'm still stuck at 29's with the ocassional 28 hero lap on R888's...so far the MPSC tires have not been as fast.
You are right it's a DE not a race...be comfortable, push when you want, learn a little and most of all have fun among friends.
I'm no where near the GT3DE Cup league. I must bring beer to the next track day just so I can at least hang out.
You are right it's a DE not a race...be comfortable, push when you want, learn a little and most of all have fun among friends.
I'm no where near the GT3DE Cup league. I must bring beer to the next track day just so I can at least hang out.
Beer first, vodka soda later, almost hangover proof.
Greek, interested in a couple of beers next Wed or Thurs?
03-09-2012, 05:06 AM
#97
Drifting
R6 need to be run hot at 30 lbs MAX. And they need to be flipped on the rims and they need to be switched right/left often. Then they last longer.
On a cool day a few weeks ago at Road Atlanta I ran 1:33 and a bunch of 1:34's on R6 with over 20 heat cycles. (yeh, yeh, yeh, I am using iPhone Harry's Laptimer, blah, blah, blah - check out Grady's data at same sessions where I am out running him on his stock tires and my iPhone times are pretty damn accurate).
Proper tire management make the R6 last a lot longer, I am finding.
I am currently testing my set of R6 to see how long they last. Expecting to get more than 30 heat cycles. I will keep you all updated as to what happens.
Disclosure: I got these ideas (30lbs., flip/switch, 30 heat cycles) from a very fast driver at Sebring running a 997.1 RS on R6 with over 30 heat cycles. I tried keeping up with him in his stock engine "old" car, I think I remember him pulling away, he was probably doing 2:17's. His only speed related mod seemed to be special springs/shocks.
03-09-2012, 09:22 AM
#99
Rennlist Member
They get a couple of great laps, then wonder why their tires go away. They also use bad air in their tires.The only way to truly gauge prooper pressures is actually via temps across the tread using a probe pyrometer, on a truuly hot lap, via a friend in pit lane. You only have to do this 1 or 2 sessions (or even sets of laps) to get a sense of where your pressures need to be. When I run Hankook Z214's on my car (equivvalent to or better thhan an R6), depending on the track & how cold it is, I will often start with only maybe 24 front, 22 rear.
As for air: I am not a nitrogen fanatic. However, I do make it a point to purposely fill my air tank on days where the relative humidity is very low. The less moisture in your air, and thus in your tires, the less the hot pressures will vary from cold. Makes a huge difference in perfoamance AND longevity.
03-09-2012, 09:43 AM
#100
Rennlist Member
Unless your tires are cording on both the outside and inside at the same time, people need to be flipping their tires.
03-09-2012, 09:46 AM
#101
Rennlist Member
As for air: I am not a nitrogen fanatic. However, I do make it a point to purposely fill my air tank on days where the relative humidity is very low. The less moisture in your air, and thus in your tires, the less the hot pressures will vary from cold. Makes a huge difference in perfoamance AND longevity.
03-09-2012, 10:37 AM
#103
I do what I can to help the community out. lol
R6 need to be run hot at 30 lbs MAX. And they need to be flipped on the rims and they need to be switched right/left often. Then they last longer.
On a cool day a few weeks ago at Road Atlanta I ran 1:33 and a bunch of 1:34's on R6 with over 20 heat cycles. (yeh, yeh, yeh, I am using iPhone Harry's Laptimer, blah, blah, blah - check out Grady's data at same sessions where I am out running him on his stock tires and my iPhone times are pretty damn accurate).
Proper tire management make the R6 last a lot longer, I am finding.
I am currently testing my set of R6 to see how long they last. Expecting to get more than 30 heat cycles. I will keep you all updated as to what happens.
Disclosure: I got these ideas (30lbs., flip/switch, 30 heat cycles) from a very fast driver at Sebring running a 997.1 RS on R6 with over 30 heat cycles. I tried keeping up with him in his stock engine "old" car, I think I remember him pulling away, he was probably doing 2:17's. His only speed related mod seemed to be special springs/shocks.
R6 need to be run hot at 30 lbs MAX. And they need to be flipped on the rims and they need to be switched right/left often. Then they last longer.
On a cool day a few weeks ago at Road Atlanta I ran 1:33 and a bunch of 1:34's on R6 with over 20 heat cycles. (yeh, yeh, yeh, I am using iPhone Harry's Laptimer, blah, blah, blah - check out Grady's data at same sessions where I am out running him on his stock tires and my iPhone times are pretty damn accurate).
Proper tire management make the R6 last a lot longer, I am finding.
I am currently testing my set of R6 to see how long they last. Expecting to get more than 30 heat cycles. I will keep you all updated as to what happens.
Disclosure: I got these ideas (30lbs., flip/switch, 30 heat cycles) from a very fast driver at Sebring running a 997.1 RS on R6 with over 30 heat cycles. I tried keeping up with him in his stock engine "old" car, I think I remember him pulling away, he was probably doing 2:17's. His only speed related mod seemed to be special springs/shocks.
30 psi only works for dirt tracking which I understand meets your criteria perfectly
I start (or started RS now gone) at 22 psi rear 24 front. Come up to 32 all around and play with air when I come in to manage 32 all the way around the rest of the day (always letting out more air as the day and track gets hotter).
To run 30 psi you'd have to start at 19 or 20 and be very careful with tire warm up to keep the tires from moving on the rims and 30 might be a little low for car control and grip but I do have love and respect for your thoughts so if and when I get another RS I'll give that a shot but I know I'LL NEVER EVER GET 30 HEAT CYCLES OUT OF ANY TYPE OF RACE TIRE, that's over 7 days and it's not going to happen. 888s won't last me that long.
PS I want videos of those 30 heat cycles
03-09-2012, 10:45 AM
#105