Stupid question re: 997 GT3 suspension upgrades
02-22-2012, 08:41 PM
#16
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The locking plate setup replaces your eccentric with a straight bolt. Without the eccentric there's no room for adjustments with the stock toe link, which is why you'll need that changed as well.
02-22-2012, 08:43 PM
#17
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what exactly is the issue with the OE eccentric bolt setup?
am not surprised there is one, as an eccentric bolt would be a cheap way for manufacturers to offer easily adjustable camber, at the expense of consistency, durability and precision, i'd think.
or did i just answer my own question? hahaha
am not surprised there is one, as an eccentric bolt would be a cheap way for manufacturers to offer easily adjustable camber, at the expense of consistency, durability and precision, i'd think.
or did i just answer my own question? hahaha
Eccentric bolts are fine as an idea for micro-adjustments (cup cars still have them in a single support version) it’s the execution that makes us hate them. After some time they wear out and won’t hold alignment. And especially when it comes to toe, change = wall.
If you don't have split lower lateral control arms (to adjust basic camber with shim plates) and you lock the solid ones by removing the eccentric bolts you have no way to adjust their length and alter camber.
Same goes for toe, if you remove the eccentrics and lock the length of the toe arm without having an adjustable one you can’t drastically change it.
02-22-2012, 08:45 PM
#18
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02-22-2012, 09:02 PM
#19
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02-22-2012, 10:23 PM
#20
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Most of what was said above was all right, but it misses a bit of logic.
Before you start rebuilding car you need to decide to what specs you want to bring it.
If you have 100% track use in mind - you first decide what tires you car will use. Race slicks, hoosier r6, nt01/r888, street tired like re11 all need different setup.
Then there are 2 sides of modding - fixing existing flaws and 'improving' overall setup.
Major flaws are bad stock air ducts, bad rear toe arms, rubber LCA ends, front fork arms.
'Improving' has no limit, usually you simply dismount whole suspension, replace all major parts with cup car parts - uprights, calipers, master brake cylinder, replace all arms with adjustable arms and replace all rod ends with steel monoballs, put in adjustable e or 3 way shocks with custom springs. Properly done custom suspension transforms any car. But as nothing exists in vacuum - there are racing classes, there are certain specs any race car must obey, so usually set of rules is strict enough and all top cars are similar enough due to this.
So before you start rebuilding your car you need to decide for yourself what are your goals and what do you do it for. If you want to setup your car to run on slicks - better do it in a good shop that knows how to setup cup cars.
Before you start rebuilding car you need to decide to what specs you want to bring it.
If you have 100% track use in mind - you first decide what tires you car will use. Race slicks, hoosier r6, nt01/r888, street tired like re11 all need different setup.
Then there are 2 sides of modding - fixing existing flaws and 'improving' overall setup.
Major flaws are bad stock air ducts, bad rear toe arms, rubber LCA ends, front fork arms.
'Improving' has no limit, usually you simply dismount whole suspension, replace all major parts with cup car parts - uprights, calipers, master brake cylinder, replace all arms with adjustable arms and replace all rod ends with steel monoballs, put in adjustable e or 3 way shocks with custom springs. Properly done custom suspension transforms any car. But as nothing exists in vacuum - there are racing classes, there are certain specs any race car must obey, so usually set of rules is strict enough and all top cars are similar enough due to this.
So before you start rebuilding your car you need to decide for yourself what are your goals and what do you do it for. If you want to setup your car to run on slicks - better do it in a good shop that knows how to setup cup cars.
02-22-2012, 10:32 PM
#22
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Most of what was said above was all right, but it misses a bit of logic.
Before you start rebuilding car you need to decide to what specs you want to bring it.
If you have 100% track use in mind - you first decide what tires you car will use. Race slicks, hoosier r6, nt01/r888, street tired like re11 all need different setup.
Then there are 2 sides of modding - fixing existing flaws and 'improving' overall setup.
Major flaws are bad stock air ducts, bad rear toe arms, rubber LCA ends, front fork arms.
'Improving' has no limit, usually you simply dismount whole suspension, replace all major parts with cup car parts - uprights, calipers, master brake cylinder, replace all arms with adjustable arms and replace all rod ends with steel monoballs, put in adjustable e or 3 way shocks with custom springs. Properly done custom suspension transforms any car. But as nothing exists in vacuum - there are racing classes, there are certain specs any race car must obey, so usually set of rules is strict enough and all top cars are similar enough due to this.
So before you start rebuilding your car you need to decide for yourself what are your goals and what do you do it for. If you want to setup your car to run on slicks - better do it in a good shop that knows how to setup cup cars.
Before you start rebuilding car you need to decide to what specs you want to bring it.
If you have 100% track use in mind - you first decide what tires you car will use. Race slicks, hoosier r6, nt01/r888, street tired like re11 all need different setup.
Then there are 2 sides of modding - fixing existing flaws and 'improving' overall setup.
Major flaws are bad stock air ducts, bad rear toe arms, rubber LCA ends, front fork arms.
'Improving' has no limit, usually you simply dismount whole suspension, replace all major parts with cup car parts - uprights, calipers, master brake cylinder, replace all arms with adjustable arms and replace all rod ends with steel monoballs, put in adjustable e or 3 way shocks with custom springs. Properly done custom suspension transforms any car. But as nothing exists in vacuum - there are racing classes, there are certain specs any race car must obey, so usually set of rules is strict enough and all top cars are similar enough due to this.
So before you start rebuilding your car you need to decide for yourself what are your goals and what do you do it for. If you want to setup your car to run on slicks - better do it in a good shop that knows how to setup cup cars.
02-22-2012, 10:34 PM
#23
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Steel does not like elements, sand, salt and water. Teflon in steel monoballs wears out and starts to rattle. But with racing part you have close to 0 dinamic camber/toe changes and your alignment stays solid for whole season.
