Nick Wong

Car was much better with the rear shocks set at C10R13 than C7R16. At Autobahn the car was pushing quite a lot on different settings, but at RA it did the opposite. If I had tires (and I did just order them yesterday on sale from TR) I would have explored C12R11 on the rear and increasing front ARB to 2 off full soft. Some people like push, some don't. I prefer a neutral car. It will get there- I made a big change from OE shocks/springs to the Ohlins and going to the big front tires in response to the perennial push it had, now it's just a matter of getting the rear to work as well as the front.

Veloce Raptor

Yes, and also in racing situations where outbraking an opponent enables a pass for position.

mdrums

VR...this is excellent stuff here...I don't know RA but I like reading and thinking about this type of stuff.

When I had Chris Hall coach me the 1st time he said my threshold braking was very good and I was like the last of the late brakers. He said that braking as late as I was, was throwing off the car balance and killing my apex speed because the car was out of grip. So we moved my braking zone back some and lightened up my pedal pressure. So for example at Sebring I am no longer into abs except just tickle it into T7. He said my late braking was perfect for trying to pass in a race situation but not the way to drive every lap.

So, now I always read in books and here on rennlist about how your supposed to brake as late as possible and so forth and I fight with that and braking a little sooner, balancing the car better and sailing it into the apex more balanced.

It's such a delicate balance between too late of brake total threshold and into abs and braking just late enough to not get into abs every corner and balance the car to the apex. Fun stuff!

wanna911

IMO if you spend a bunch of time with huge changes in the shocks settings, you are off target to begin with.

I'd set all of those shocks and sway settings to neutral/soft and get a coach and mechanic at the track (at the same time) to help you get the base platform set up (ride height). Then use the other adjustments for fine tuning. You can easily get lost with huge changes in shock settings.

I've had a mechanic at the track (one day with Andrew Davis there too) with me for 3-4 events in a row and we always start off with ride height adjustments, followed by sway bar adjustments and LASTLY messing with those shocks. It may seem like the simplest way, but you got to set the base up first or you get lost.

drdrank

Hopefully you guys all passed into Canuck territory already

From my Bloomberg: "Bomb Threat Closes Detroit-Canada Commuter Tunnel"

By COREY WILLIAMS
Detroit (AP) -- Officials shut down the international
commuter tunnel connecting Detroit with Windsor, Ontario, on
Thursday as authorities investigated a bomb threat.
The Detroit Windsor Tunnel was closed to traffic after the
threat was called in on the Canadian side, tunnel chief
executive Neal Belitsky told The Associated Press. The call was
made some time after 12:30 p.m. to the duty free shop on a
plaza on the tunnel's Windsor side, tunnel executive vice
president Carolyn Brown said.
Initially, traffic going onto plazas on both sides of the
tunnel was halted and diverted away from the tunnel. Officials
then decided to clear the tunnel and block off entrances and
exits on both sides, Brown said.
Bomb squads from the Detroit and Windsor police departments
were called in to help with the investigation, and traffic in
both cities was redirected to the Ambassador Bridge, located
just west of downtown.

Izzone

Just arrived in Canada at Mosport, typical Canadian hospitality.....

DJN

Beer, eh?

4forme

Good luck on the rest of the Mancation journey. It was nice to meet a few of you at RA. Attached below is one of the last runs on Saturday. GT3RS Train;

DRPM

Welcome!

stujelly

Thought you were running the RA1 tires and not off road tires, Dang that turn 5 looked a little wide. Did that work for you all day?? My car hates those bumps.

On a serious note, let me just say, that rabbit had legs, yeeee haaa.

Never could catch ya. Looks like its time for cheater parts, bbs wheels, 996 shifter cable, time for a track alignment

Be safe

NJ-GT

Kris, you are lapping in 2:40s, any line works for 2:40 laps up there. So, use PS3 simulator or the more advanced iRacing thingy, and get coach to sit next to you in car with a good data acquisition.

Coaching person-to-person is 1,000 times better than coaching through keyboard and iPad screen.

NJ-GT

This

Nick Wong

Rad, do you even know how many clicks I have on the rear shocks?

NJ-GT

If you're using 2 way at the back you should have 20 clicks, but using 3-way or 4-way gives you 40 clicks (more resolution) same range.

I think your spring rates are not right. Measure motion ratio, then calculate wheel rates, use the corner weights and you will see the car is not right.

I would go for 800# front and 1100# rear, small change that doesn't need revalving. Rear toe-in at 4mm total, front toe-out at 1mm totall. Zero rate tenders, 6" long LW springs (swift) or the even nicer carbon fiber springs Hyperco released last year. -3.0 front camber -2.5 rear camber.

Your car and my old 997.1 GT3 RS are very similar, yours need a little more rear springs due to the extra mass of the intercoolers and turbochargers.

Semi-Solid engine mounts and tranny mounts. LWFW. Full monoballs.

Rake at 20mm, ride height at 15mm under stock. Rear bar full soft, front bar in the middle.

For shock settings, contact Ohlins and get a baseline from them and start from there. Usually a car must use more rebound than compression, the high speed stuff is what makes the car great on bumpy tracks, most of the gains are from proper low speed compression and rebound.

I played with 2-way and 3-way shocks from 2004 until 2010. One day I gave up, half of my time spent tuning shocks, so I went back to my stock shocks, got them revalved for my springs, and no more adjustments.

Nick Wong

Rad, I am not that far off from where you are suggesting I start. FYI 23 clicks on the rear, fronts are 40/47. The only real difference is front ARB setting, need to go one or two holes stiffer. FYI if rake is at 20mm, ride height cannot be only 15mm lower- there will be a difference from F/R. Do you mean FRONT 15mm lower, AND 20mm rake? The other thing is, Ohlins measures height from the fenders and gives a suggested height and rake. Kind of weird they don't do it like the ROW. There must be a method to their madness, or perhaps it's just because they're Swedish and like to do things differently. I don't want to run 3 degrees of camber on this car- it's a street car with weekend track duty, not the other way around.
I agree, the high speed, so far, has been set and forget, the low speed is where the big gains are.
FYI if the suggested spring rates aren't right, why would the suggested baseline for the shocks be any different?