Need ride height and alignment info.
#16
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#17
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If I was the OP i would go to Werks2 as it is down the road from where he lives and they do an outstanding job with alignments,RH, and CB.
918 Chestnut Street Chestnut Street, Burbank, CA 91506-1621
(800) 493-7572
918 Chestnut Street Chestnut Street, Burbank, CA 91506-1621
(800) 493-7572
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#18
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alignment costs $150. corner balance usually costs about of $500 or so including ride height setup. very best shops cost more.
#19
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Keep your opinions coming. I'm reading every one.
Alright, I'm going to call Werks2 today and see how much they want for the full service. I'm then going to see how much Darrin (West End Alignment) will charge me as he's normally my guy. The car will be dialed in, hopefully by the end of next week.
I'll also recheck GMG and see everything that they are going to do for the $900, but I think I got it right when I listed their service: Ride Height, Corner Balance, Alignment.
Alright, I'm going to call Werks2 today and see how much they want for the full service. I'm then going to see how much Darrin (West End Alignment) will charge me as he's normally my guy. The car will be dialed in, hopefully by the end of next week.
I'll also recheck GMG and see everything that they are going to do for the $900, but I think I got it right when I listed their service: Ride Height, Corner Balance, Alignment.
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for a good alignment and corner balance you will need to pay for a days labour.
if you bump steer the car plan on another day.
Having a good set of rear toe links is worth while because it will hold the $$ alignment longer then the stock units.
Werks II tech guy is Timo. Very knowledgable and all round great guy.
If they are not busy prepping CUP cars then it would be worth a look.
if you bump steer the car plan on another day.
Having a good set of rear toe links is worth while because it will hold the $$ alignment longer then the stock units.
Werks II tech guy is Timo. Very knowledgable and all round great guy.
If they are not busy prepping CUP cars then it would be worth a look.
#22
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I called them and they were supposed to call me back but no call yet. Maybe they are a bit busy. I'll wait another day.
In the meantime, can someone please post up ground to fender heights for the front and the rear. My car looks like a 4 wheel drive. The previous owner dialed the car in then had it raised a bit later without realigning the car. he did this to facilitate getting it into his garage. I'm sure that if I bring it back down, it'll ride better until I can get it in to the shop. I'll probably get some negative camber back.
I've only got the rest of the week to blast it around till it sits in the garage for a month while I head back to work.
In the meantime, can someone please post up ground to fender heights for the front and the rear. My car looks like a 4 wheel drive. The previous owner dialed the car in then had it raised a bit later without realigning the car. he did this to facilitate getting it into his garage. I'm sure that if I bring it back down, it'll ride better until I can get it in to the shop. I'll probably get some negative camber back.
I've only got the rest of the week to blast it around till it sits in the garage for a month while I head back to work.
#23
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Already introduced myself in another thread and being that I purchased the car off of a friend who had a steep driveway, he raised the car to facilitate getting it into his garage.
Now that I have the car, I would like to dial it in as much as possible in my garage. I'll get it done again by West End when the time comes, but for now I would like to get the car to handle it's best through the twisties. Mulholland and Angelus Crest for you west coasters.
What settings will produce the best all around performance?
Ride Heights?
Camber settings?
Toe?
Caster?
I'm going to do a search but also wanted to toss up this thread to see if I get any bites.
Thanks in Advance!
Now that I have the car, I would like to dial it in as much as possible in my garage. I'll get it done again by West End when the time comes, but for now I would like to get the car to handle it's best through the twisties. Mulholland and Angelus Crest for you west coasters.
What settings will produce the best all around performance?
Ride Heights?
Camber settings?
Toe?
Caster?
I'm going to do a search but also wanted to toss up this thread to see if I get any bites.
Thanks in Advance!
#24
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I don't car how much it scrapes as it's not a dd. I would like to put it back to the stock height and go from there.
10GT3, I plan to do about 75% street. That will probably change once I get the car out on the track. I've got an addictive personality. I'd also be using the same wheel tire (Michelin Cups) combo that I run on the street for the track, at least to begin with. On that note, I have a set of Bridgestone RE11's that I need to get rid of. They are, for the most part, brand new.
On another note, I'm really enjoying the company that this forum keeps. You guys are intelligent, cordial and polite. Thanks for the warm welcome!
10GT3, I plan to do about 75% street. That will probably change once I get the car out on the track. I've got an addictive personality. I'd also be using the same wheel tire (Michelin Cups) combo that I run on the street for the track, at least to begin with. On that note, I have a set of Bridgestone RE11's that I need to get rid of. They are, for the most part, brand new.
On another note, I'm really enjoying the company that this forum keeps. You guys are intelligent, cordial and polite. Thanks for the warm welcome!
#25
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I don't car how much it scrapes as it's not a dd. I would like to put it back to the stock height and go from there.
10GT3, I plan to do about 75% street. That will probably change once I get the car out on the track. I've got an addictive personality. I'd also be using the same wheel tire (Michelin Cups) combo that I run on the street for the track, at least to begin with. On that note, I have a set of Bridgestone RE11's that I need to get rid of. They are, for the most part, brand new.
On another note, I'm really enjoying the company that this forum keeps. You guys are intelligent, cordial and polite. Thanks for the warm welcome!
10GT3, I plan to do about 75% street. That will probably change once I get the car out on the track. I've got an addictive personality. I'd also be using the same wheel tire (Michelin Cups) combo that I run on the street for the track, at least to begin with. On that note, I have a set of Bridgestone RE11's that I need to get rid of. They are, for the most part, brand new.
On another note, I'm really enjoying the company that this forum keeps. You guys are intelligent, cordial and polite. Thanks for the warm welcome!
We're just suckering you in. Better start a slush fund now to accommodate your new addiction.
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#27
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But they are soooo heavy. I had them on my 2008 GTI and hated them. The grip is insane but the weight totally killed the acceleration and ride. The GTI now has PS2's and it's so much nicer.
#28
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As others mentioned, camber is tire, driver and track dependant. For the street, stock alignment is fine. In fact, I did a few track days on the stock aligment and while it chews up the outside shoulder a bit and you give up some absolute grip, the car is balanced and fun to drive. I drove with MPSC and used about -2.7f, -2.3 rear toe .02 degrees in up front and -.25 or so in per side in the rear. I still wore the outside shoulder up front (but NJMP is hard on front tires). I ran -2.9f with Hoosiers last year and -2.4 rear and this year, I will bump the front another couple of tenths and keep the rear in the 2.3 to 2.4 range. Note that the drives fine on the street with this, just you wear the inside rear quickly. Avoid toe out in front for the street as the car will wander and hunt over everything (though it gives sharper responses on the track. I like a touch of toe in, even on the track for high speed stability.
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http://www.exe-tc.co.uk/setup/understanding_chassis