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I’m doing the change right now-both fill and drain plugs had no crush washers from factory, my car is a 997.2
perhaps the .1 has them, .2 not? I suppose that without washers plugs would be less prone to vibrating loose, even torqued to 22 ft/lbs(?)
I did pick up 2 new washers, the shop manual does say to use them, but my plugs had a green “paint” prom factory, never opened, like another rennlister posted on a related list-
I used the long Allen wrench, wasn’t easy to crack, but I had to remove the aluminum bar that holds the underbody panels, because fitting the Allen wrench was only possible pointing straight down, then pulling towards the back of car to open fill. I also have a socket Allen but many said it’s impossible to use a socket since there’s not much space-
While at the dealer I went to the service area and spoke to a tech who assured me to fill until it drips out, stays level with the bottom of the hole-
I'm using the bubble level to make sure the car isn't favoring left or right on my driveway, also front-back, I'll double check before filling-I've left the car dripping away for almost an hr, drove to a full warm up before draining. Tech also said to go for a drive after filling, then double checking the level.
Delvac smells like most transmission/gear oils, I wonder why they have that smell-
Also wondering if the level should be double checked after a drive, no service manuals seem to indicate that-these transaxles do have an oil pump from what I know, so what happens when the transaxle is drained? Does the level change once the engine is started and the car driven? Kind of a pain to go double check, lift the car etc, but I might do it-
Thoughts from those who track and replace oil frequently?
Thnx
crush washer on the fill nut either. It had never been cracked either. Paint mark was intact. Since I didn't have an extra aluminum washer handy at the time, I just put the nut back in place w/o a washer.
Then, I bought a handful of washers. It there is a next time, I intend to use a washer. Has to be better for sealing (albeit I don't have any leaks).
I put the washers, but when looking closely it seems the plugs are made to mate with the transmission housing without the washers-the odd thing is I just checked the Katalog/PET,2010, and indeed, the exploded view shows the sealing ring with part number-but searching related threads, I see many didn't come with the sealing aluminum rings/washers.
Still wondering if the oil cooler and oil pump get drained (I let mine drain for over an hr)
Might go ahead and double check the level anyway-
Just finished double checking level, opened fill and got a slight drip, as stated in service manual. I know the top of this post has the procedure 911Slow posted, later stating 5mm below opening, but I'm going with fluid emerging, and what tech at dealer said-
Here's a pdf of maintenance schedule-96000 miles or 12 years- the service manual says to check level. If it drips out, level is good, otherwise add oil-
Here's a pdf of maintenance schedule-96000 miles or 12 years- the service manual says to check level. If it drips out, level is good, otherwise add oil-
Omg - that's crazy.
I use the "fluids are cheap" mentality. So I frequently change fluid. At the very least 1x a year.
Thanks for all the info. I was able to replace the Gear oil this weekend with Mobil Delvac 75W-90. The fill hole was pretty difficult to "break" and access. I measured 3.3L for the fill by transferring from the Delvac container to a gradated container with a standard fitting for the transfer pump (below). I pumped the fluid until it started to drip out. I called it a day and buttoned everything back up. Any consequences to slightly overfilling? Is the car going to blow up? Next time I'm going to replace the hex fill plug with a standard plug.
"Mobilube SHC, also known as Mobil Delvac Synthetic Gear Oil, is the factory fill from Porsche on factory cars and is different from Mobil 1 Synthetic gear lube typically sold at local auto parts stores. We recommend this gear lubricant in G50 and later manual gearboxes (or any gearboxes calling for a GL5 lubricant) for both aircooled and watercooled Porsches without limited-slip differentials. Not a limited slip gear lubricant! Although also compatible with earlier Porsche gearboxes, Swepco 201 is a better choice for these gearboxes in our personal experience (including 901 and 915, as well as VW manual gearboxes)."
I've heard that Neo 75-90 RHD is a good choice for harsh environments like tracking. just sayin.
Another comment by LN Engineering, "It is worth noting that Porsche went to SWEPCO when they were having gearbox longevity issues, which led to the development of 201 specficially for Porsche."
I use it in my race car, formula ford with Hewland . it is greatest gear oil i have used
Thanks for all the info. I was able to replace the Gear oil this weekend with Mobil Delvac 75W-90. The fill hole was pretty difficult to "break" and access. I measured 3.3L for the fill by transferring from the Delvac container to a gradated container with a standard fitting for the transfer pump (below). I pumped the fluid until it started to drip out. I called it a day and buttoned everything back up. Any consequences to slightly overfilling? Is the car going to blow up? Next time I'm going to replace the hex fill plug with a standard plug.
slight drip is what you want. if it was gushing out and your sealed i would drain excess out. also, do yourself a favor and buy a motive. pumping sucks!
03-18-2016, 11:34 AM
