jshudson

Does anyone run 19" R6s on a 997.1 narrow body in the 235/35x19 sizing?
I mounted a set only to find it seems to rub the inside of the fender well when the wheel in turned. The section width and tread width are 3/4" wider than the MPSC OEM size. I didn't expect that difference would be enough to matter.

TRAKCAR

Does not make sense, should fit easily??

rlips

Check your castor settings, if the wheel is far forward in the wheel well (too much castor) it will rub. I had this issue and we corrected it by a castor adjustment.

997gt3north

I have run them on many track days with do issues.

Wheel is a Volk - 19x8.5 with I think 51 offset
Front has -2.7 camber with shims only - thus my caster is likely higher than stock (should make rubbing worse)

I have no issues with any rubbing

I run stock ride height

NJ-GT

They don't rub, I have used 265/35R19 no rub either.

measure the thickness of camber shims you added to the LCA, I bet you exceeded 7mm on stock ride height or 4mm on 10mm or lower ride height, and there is your answer. Easy fix.

CRex

Shouldn't rub. What camber settings are you running?

jshudson

Thanks all,
it must be a castor problem with wheel too far forward in the wheel well. I will have that checked tomorrow. I am not sure what the current castor number is.
The camber is -2.5, done with 10mm of shims on stock ride height, so NJ-GT made have hit the issue.

Carrera GT

Same with 265 R6's -- on full lock, they'll rub on the plastic liner, but they don't touch any metal when driven on the track and they wear out on the tread, not through contacting the car. I keep a very close eye on tires, especially around the fender where there's metal very close to the tire shoulder. So far, so good. And you're right to pay close attention to any wear on the tire or on the car where there's contact. A little "buffing" is not an issue.

NJ-GT

Easy fix.

Push out the studs from the camber plates and place them in the other 3 holes, no need to remove the struts, just 3 x 13mm nuts and the main nut retaining the shock to the camber plate. Remember to disconnect the front sway bar on both sides and use jack stands for the front axle.

Then remove 8mm of camber shims on each side, set camber back to -2.5 with your camber gauge. The end result is that you will now be able to run a 265x19 Hoosier and no rubbing at all. No need to reset ride height, but you need to reset toe, as you will end with too much toe-out. Turn 4 flats towards toe-in and that should leave you close to where you were for toe settings. Ideally, I would re-align the car.

Fix it, tire rubbing is like applying brakes on an unpredictable and unstable manner to just one wheel.

CRex

^ +1. 10mm is a lot of shim and probably leaves with way over 8 degs of caster. NJ-GT's got it the solution down to a tee.

997gt3north

Interesting that I can run -2.7 camber with shims only = more than 10mm of shims and yet don't rub - could be the Volks with 2mm more offset

rlips

Exactly how we fixed mine. Getting the three studs out of the camber plates was tough, they are press fit in the factory. My mechanic applied a little heat to them and was able to knock them out. Net result was we removed 12 mm of shims. Castor moved back 1 degree, wheel is centered perfectly in the wheel well now.

jshudson

NJ-GT, Thanks for the instructions, headed out to get it done today.
Jim

NJ-GT

Getting the 3 studs is easy as well. Place the stud on top of a 6mm or smaller socket, hit the corner with a rubber mallet, it comes out in 5 seconds. To put them back in, use a 5mm spacer then a 10mm spacer (you can use a 15mm nut or several washers) on the treaded end of the stud, and tight it with the 13mm nut, it will press in smootly, don't exceed 28 ft-lbs of torque.

No need to use a press, not recommended either due to the soft aluminum used by Porsche.

Carrera GT

As a rule, never hit anything that's not a nail. Use a press to remove and install splined or "interference fit" parts. Avoid heat unless there's reason to believe parts have corroded or "frozen" together.

Some "thumb and fingers" ball joint removal tools can function as a press to remove a stud. I use a G clamp with an oversized nut as a "bridge" to surround the head of the stud. This is undramatic and distributes force over a wood block on top of the nut (fully threaded onto the end of the stud.) It gives "feedback" so you know you're not applying excessive force. If you use a hammer, once you give it a whack and realize something is not right, it's too late, you've already applied full force. If you hit anything with a hammer, there's inevitable sideways pressure. If an engine builder uses a mallet to install or remove cylinder sleeves, it's one of those things where everyone does it wrong, but that doesn't make it right. In the case of the studs in suspension mount hats, it's not a big deal -- the hat is little more than a giant washer, there's no significant shearing force on the assembly once installed, it's not under extreme loads and there's no precision in the assembly. Still, I prefer to do these things "correctly" and avoid that one in a million "oh crap ..." situation.