jshudson

Well, the studs have proven to be quite a challenge so far. I may end up having to use some "professional" to get them out.

A couple more questions:
1. I loosen the large nut on the shock and remove it,correct?
2. When I do get the studs out, and moved to the other three holes, how/where do you realign the studs to the holes? Will the plates have to be rotated?

Sorry for all the questions, but this is first time event for me.
Thanks

Carrera GT

The last time I did this was a 996 GT3 and they didn't put up much of a fight. There's an earlier post mentioning heat which suggests they had a bit of trouble.
Can you post a pic so we're sure to be talking about the same thing?

NJ-GT

1. Yes, remove it. With the sway bar disconnected the strut will slide out, while the camber plate is still attached to the body. Then remove the 3 nuts from the camber plate, and grab you camber plate out of the car.

2. When you have the camber plate on your own hands, away from the car, it's time to remove the studs. There are 3 studs, and three unused holes, just place the studs on the unused 3 holes. The camber plate comes with 6 holes, 3 for low camber (street setting) 3 holes for high camber (track setting). By using the track setting holes in the camber plate, you gain camber and also gain space to run a 20mm wider tire to what you already run.

Removing the studs is extremely easy, as I said it takes me 5 secs per stud, a little more if using "Carrera GT recommended G clamp approach". I have done it 6 times already, last time for a friend with a beautiful 2010 GT3.

There is only one position to put the camber plate back to the car, you can't place it wrong.

On the way back, attach the camber plate to the car (3 nuts) not too tight, then slide up the strut with the help of a floor jack and wood block from the lower part of the wheel carrier (don't touch the brake rotor), once it slides entirely into the camber plate, put back that 22mm nut and make it tight from the wheel well with a wrench, while holding the top strut with a star key.

jshudson

Thanks to all for the additional instructions. Hopefully I have got it this time.
jim

mdrums

Has anyone noticed any significant difference between running 18" or 19" R6 or any other R-Comp tire at the track?

Carrera GT

By the way, you should be careful about torque, clean the stud threads with a stainless wire brush and use new factory pinch nuts. : ) ... not that anybody ever does ... but I do ... and the expression you're thinking of as you read this paragraph, ends with the word "retentive" ...

NJ-GT

Huge !!!

18" tires can use a lower diameter to support the same loads, lower diameter means lower ride height without changing suspension geometry.

What's not to love about lower gearing (higher RPM at a given speed, and more power to the ground), lower ride height (less drag due to less air underneath, better handling due to lower CG), no impact on bump steer, no impact on alignment, plus the ability to run wider tires in 18".

I tested 18" vs 19" in my Cayman S (Hoosier A6) at a 45 secs track. 0.5 secs faster on the 18" tires. 265/295x19 A6 vs. 285/285 A6.

Carrera GT

285 and 285 on a Cayman -- that must be interesting around cones.

mdrums

That is why I changed from 245/40 and 305/35 on my 18's to 255/35 and 315/30...not so much the wider tires but to lower the car and gear it down some.

NJ-GT

At Homestead with an old set of 285x30R18 A6, I lapped in 1:40.2, around 1 second slower than the NASA TTB track record (the class where the Cayman runs). Bone stock car, except these wider tires and a 2010 GT3 sway bar. Camber is set to -1 degree all around, and 0 toe all around (limitations of the stock Cayman, and best setup after much testing).

With proper camber, springs and shocks, alignment, and some lightening, it can be a front runner in NASA TTB. On 19" wheels/tires, the car is a lot slower.

The adjustable sway bar allows me to balance the car towards understeer/oversteer regardless of tire sizes used.