Gen 1 vs Gen 2 GT3RS
05-26-2011, 10:47 AM
#46
Three Wheelin'
I have both series 1RS and series 2RS cars. The series 1 is easier to drive on the road. It is easier to heel and toe in the series 1. I cannot reach the accelerator when I try to heel and toe in the series 2. When I blip the throttle on the series 2 the revs hardly rise to match the revs when downchanging on the street. On the track the series 2 is fine because you are pressing the brake pedal a great deal harder, and you are at higher revs, so the revs will rise when you blip the throttle.
I prefer driving the series 1 on the road.
The series 1 also has a distinct difference in feel when you switch on the PASM. It is much more track focused with the stiffer suspension.
Everyone goes on about the increased downforce on the series 2. What no one mentions is the fact that the series 1 cars are delivered with a +ve angle on the rear wing. Therefore you have very little downforce on the rear. The rear spoiler is adjustable and you can get up to 12 degrees on the rear wing. Would be nice if someone compared the downforce of a series 1 with full wing angle, with the fixed series 2 wing.
The only positive on the series 2 is the gearing, low down torque and brakes.
Easy fix on a series 1 is
- brembo 380mm front discs
- 996 cup diff to change ratios
Hope this helps
Ciao
Krash
I prefer driving the series 1 on the road.
The series 1 also has a distinct difference in feel when you switch on the PASM. It is much more track focused with the stiffer suspension.
Everyone goes on about the increased downforce on the series 2. What no one mentions is the fact that the series 1 cars are delivered with a +ve angle on the rear wing. Therefore you have very little downforce on the rear. The rear spoiler is adjustable and you can get up to 12 degrees on the rear wing. Would be nice if someone compared the downforce of a series 1 with full wing angle, with the fixed series 2 wing.
The only positive on the series 2 is the gearing, low down torque and brakes.
Easy fix on a series 1 is
- brembo 380mm front discs
- 996 cup diff to change ratios
Hope this helps
Ciao
Krash
Hey Krash,
I had no idea that you bought an RS.2. What colour did you end up getting??
Also regarding the heel and toe on the RS.2, I find this to be heaps easier than the Cup which was giving me trouble all weekend at Mallala. That was until the last race where we made some adjustments, and then everything was back on track.
Are you doing any more rounds this year??
I bet you will be at Phillip Island....
05-26-2011, 11:12 AM
#47
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The .2RS is about 1 sec faster per minute at the track compared to the .1RS on the same tires (not the cheater OEM .2 GT3RS rear tires). The price delta ($25k or less) is a bargain. The warranty alone is a $5k value for 4 years, try to fix a Porsche out of warranty, not cheap.
$3k for monoball parts? no way. It's a lot more than that, labor intensive and pricey parts. I did it in my 996 GT3, lots of parts, ERP steering rod links, rear toe links, dog bones, rear upper strut mounts, control arm bearings, control arm bushings, monoball drop links, $8k easily (agree with Mooty).
Moton shocks don't have main springs, tender springs, isolators, installation, corner weights and alignment included. It is a $8k upgrade.
Short R&P gear with labor is a $4k with labor, and sometimes more.
For the same upgrade money, you get a 997.2 RS with a bonus 35Hp, more torque, more downforce, dynamic engine mounts, the super expensive ($7k) carbon seats, a titanium muffler, and it is lighter.
$3k for monoball parts? no way. It's a lot more than that, labor intensive and pricey parts. I did it in my 996 GT3, lots of parts, ERP steering rod links, rear toe links, dog bones, rear upper strut mounts, control arm bearings, control arm bushings, monoball drop links, $8k easily (agree with Mooty).
Moton shocks don't have main springs, tender springs, isolators, installation, corner weights and alignment included. It is a $8k upgrade.
Short R&P gear with labor is a $4k with labor, and sometimes more.
For the same upgrade money, you get a 997.2 RS with a bonus 35Hp, more torque, more downforce, dynamic engine mounts, the super expensive ($7k) carbon seats, a titanium muffler, and it is lighter.
05-26-2011, 01:08 PM
#48
Nordschleife Master
The .2RS is about 1 sec faster per minute at the track compared to the .1RS on the same tires (not the cheater OEM .2 GT3RS rear tires). The price delta ($25k or less) is a bargain. The warranty alone is a $5k value for 4 years, try to fix a Porsche out of warranty, not cheap.
$3k for monoball parts? no way. It's a lot more than that, labor intensive and pricey parts. I did it in my 996 GT3, lots of parts, ERP steering rod links, rear toe links, dog bones, rear upper strut mounts, control arm bearings, control arm bushings, monoball drop links, $8k easily (agree with Mooty).
Moton shocks don't have main springs, tender springs, isolators, installation, corner weights and alignment included. It is a $8k upgrade.
Short R&P gear with labor is a $4k with labor, and sometimes more.
For the same upgrade money, you get a 997.2 RS with a bonus 35Hp, more torque, more downforce, dynamic engine mounts, the super expensive ($7k) carbon seats, a titanium muffler, and it is lighter.
$3k for monoball parts? no way. It's a lot more than that, labor intensive and pricey parts. I did it in my 996 GT3, lots of parts, ERP steering rod links, rear toe links, dog bones, rear upper strut mounts, control arm bearings, control arm bushings, monoball drop links, $8k easily (agree with Mooty).
Moton shocks don't have main springs, tender springs, isolators, installation, corner weights and alignment included. It is a $8k upgrade.
Short R&P gear with labor is a $4k with labor, and sometimes more.
For the same upgrade money, you get a 997.2 RS with a bonus 35Hp, more torque, more downforce, dynamic engine mounts, the super expensive ($7k) carbon seats, a titanium muffler, and it is lighter.
Ive had both....if you buy a 997.1 and mod save your money buy 997.2. If you don't have money, buy 997.1 drive as is. Save your money and upgrade to a newer model when you can afford it
997.2 rs with dynamic mounts is a much much better track car than a 997.1 rs....so what no stickers or wide ***
05-26-2011, 03:33 PM
#49
Rennlist Member
The .2RS is about 1 sec faster per minute at the track compared to the .1RS on the same tires (not the cheater OEM .2 GT3RS rear tires). The price delta ($25k or less) is a bargain. The warranty alone is a $5k value for 4 years, try to fix a Porsche out of warranty, not cheap.
$3k for monoball parts? no way. It's a lot more than that, labor intensive and pricey parts. I did it in my 996 GT3, lots of parts, ERP steering rod links, rear toe links, dog bones, rear upper strut mounts, control arm bearings, control arm bushings, monoball drop links, $8k easily (agree with Mooty).
Moton shocks don't have main springs, tender springs, isolators, installation, corner weights and alignment included. It is a $8k upgrade.
Short R&P gear with labor is a $4k with labor, and sometimes more.
For the same upgrade money, you get a 997.2 RS with a bonus 35Hp, more torque, more downforce, dynamic engine mounts, the super expensive ($7k) carbon seats, a titanium muffler, and it is lighter.
$3k for monoball parts? no way. It's a lot more than that, labor intensive and pricey parts. I did it in my 996 GT3, lots of parts, ERP steering rod links, rear toe links, dog bones, rear upper strut mounts, control arm bearings, control arm bushings, monoball drop links, $8k easily (agree with Mooty).
Moton shocks don't have main springs, tender springs, isolators, installation, corner weights and alignment included. It is a $8k upgrade.
Short R&P gear with labor is a $4k with labor, and sometimes more.
For the same upgrade money, you get a 997.2 RS with a bonus 35Hp, more torque, more downforce, dynamic engine mounts, the super expensive ($7k) carbon seats, a titanium muffler, and it is lighter.
Here's what I got on my previous car from RSS:
Dogbones $850
Toe steer kit $550
Thrust arm bush $300 x2
Monoball a-arm $425
They cost about $2,500 (without labor and tax).
Forget about the Ti muffler, it falls apart after a while anyways
05-26-2011, 03:44 PM
#50
I agree with you, I'd rather spend the money on upgrading the car. I did that mistake last time with the S...What I was trying to say is with little upgrades you can keep up with a stock mkII RS, not that it'll be a better car.
Here's what I got on my previous car from RSS:
Dogbones $850
Toe steer kit $550
Thrust arm bush $300 x2
Monoball a-arm $425
They cost about $2,500 (without labor and tax).
Forget about the Ti muffler, it falls apart after a while anyways
Here's what I got on my previous car from RSS:
Dogbones $850
Toe steer kit $550
Thrust arm bush $300 x2
Monoball a-arm $425
They cost about $2,500 (without labor and tax).
Forget about the Ti muffler, it falls apart after a while anyways
05-26-2011, 03:57 PM
#51
I certainly wouldn't encourage anyone to take a $12K flying leap out over the slippery slope expecting to land in a pool of crystal clear satisfaction like a cliff diver timing their arc to meet with the crest of a wave far below ... instead, they're more likely to arrive just as the waters recede to expose the disappointing embrace of bare coral and rocks.
05-26-2011, 04:02 PM
#53
Rennlist Member
flying leap out over the slippery slope expecting to land in a pool of crystal clear satisfaction like a cliff diver timing their arc to meet with the crest of a wave far below ... instead, they're more likely to arrive just as the waters recede to expose the disappointing embrace of bare coral and rocks.
05-26-2011, 04:07 PM
#54
I thought Florida was a bit like England in the summertime -- any time after about 10:30am is good enough for "elevensies."
I think the GTS (basically any power kit 911 with PDK) will be insanely quick straight out of the box. Slap on some decent rubber and, hell, maybe even throw a wrench on the suspension for a minute, then you've got something that's got the potential to be very quick around the track.
I think the GTS (basically any power kit 911 with PDK) will be insanely quick straight out of the box. Slap on some decent rubber and, hell, maybe even throw a wrench on the suspension for a minute, then you've got something that's got the potential to be very quick around the track.
05-26-2011, 04:20 PM
#55
I certainly wouldn't encourage anyone to take a $12K flying leap out over the slippery slope expecting to land in a pool of crystal clear satisfaction like a cliff diver timing their arc to meet with the crest of a wave far below ... instead, they're more likely to arrive just as the waters recede to expose the disappointing embrace of bare coral and rocks.
05-26-2011, 05:44 PM
#56
Rennlist Member
If lap times are the final measure of the machine or the satisfaction of the driver, then sell the $185K 4.0 RS or the $135K 3.8 RS and get a $108K GTS with PDK. I'd wager that your average 3.8 RS or 4.0 RS driver couldn't out-pace a decent driver in a GTS with PDK. I'm not sure even a very good pro driver in a 4.0 RS could get away from a decent amateur in a GTS/PDK.
I certainly wouldn't encourage anyone to take a $12K flying leap out over the slippery slope expecting to land in a pool of crystal clear satisfaction like a cliff diver timing their arc to meet with the crest of a wave far below ... instead, they're more likely to arrive just as the waters recede to expose the disappointing embrace of bare coral and rocks.
I certainly wouldn't encourage anyone to take a $12K flying leap out over the slippery slope expecting to land in a pool of crystal clear satisfaction like a cliff diver timing their arc to meet with the crest of a wave far below ... instead, they're more likely to arrive just as the waters recede to expose the disappointing embrace of bare coral and rocks.
2- I'm not trying to encourage anyone for modding.
3- None of us are professionals and do this for fun. The difference between two drivers/cars in lap times are usually based on both the car and the drivers capabilities. We've all passed much faster cars, and probably got passed by slower cars.
4- Instead of selling and buying another car you can improve your lap times by upgrading stock components little by little. This way you can keep your car, and spend as much as you feel comfortable
Enough explanation for you?
05-26-2011, 07:07 PM
#57
1- I was referring to another post saying it would take about $10-15k to get 1 second faster per minute on a track.
2- I'm not trying to encourage anyone for modding.
3- None of us are professionals and do this for fun. The difference between two drivers/cars in lap times are usually based on both the car and the drivers capabilities. We've all passed much faster cars, and probably got passed by slower cars.
4- Instead of selling and buying another car you can improve your lap times by upgrading stock components little by little. This way you can keep your car, and spend as much as you feel comfortable
Enough explanation for you?
2- I'm not trying to encourage anyone for modding.
3- None of us are professionals and do this for fun. The difference between two drivers/cars in lap times are usually based on both the car and the drivers capabilities. We've all passed much faster cars, and probably got passed by slower cars.
4- Instead of selling and buying another car you can improve your lap times by upgrading stock components little by little. This way you can keep your car, and spend as much as you feel comfortable
Enough explanation for you?
05-26-2011, 09:47 PM
#60
