RS LOVER

I have both series 1RS and series 2RS cars. The series 1 is easier to drive on the road. It is easier to heel and toe in the series 1. I cannot reach the accelerator when I try to heel and toe in the series 2. When I blip the throttle on the series 2 the revs hardly rise to match the revs when downchanging on the street. On the track the series 2 is fine because you are pressing the brake pedal a great deal harder, and you are at higher revs, so the revs will rise when you blip the throttle.
I prefer driving the series 1 on the road.
The series 1 also has a distinct difference in feel when you switch on the PASM. It is much more track focused with the stiffer suspension.

Everyone goes on about the increased downforce on the series 2. What no one mentions is the fact that the series 1 cars are delivered with a +ve angle on the rear wing. Therefore you have very little downforce on the rear. The rear spoiler is adjustable and you can get up to 12 degrees on the rear wing. Would be nice if someone compared the downforce of a series 1 with full wing angle, with the fixed series 2 wing.
The only positive on the series 2 is the gearing, low down torque and brakes.
Easy fix on a series 1 is
- brembo 380mm front discs
- 996 cup diff to change ratios

Hope this helps

Ciao

Krash

BBMGT3

Very true on the .1 downforce. Stick a Cup front lip and max-attack the rear wing and there's nothing in it.

Plus I think it would be fairly straightforward to make a .1 quicker than a stock .2 around a track using hardware only (excluding tires). Would cost some money - but doable. Go further and you can probably match the .2RS and, if you go 3.9/4.0, maybe even the new 4.0RS...

Condor Man

$30K is nothing for the new Technology and ultimately a newer car.

The difference for us down here in the never land is $100K USD.

Now that's a real tough decision to make.

P.J.S.

this is not correct.
a cup diff does not change gear ratios.
you can change the lock up characterisitics and durability of the diff, but this does nothing for gear ratios.


Having redone my complete gear box (ring and pinion, 1-4 gears, 2 piece main shaft, etc) I can say with certainty that the price delta between .1RS and .2RS is worth it when compared to properly gearing a .1RS for track work... I am not saying that the price of the gearbox mods is more than the delta, but close enough that in my mind at least, it is worth going .2 for the gearing and other benefits.

AGREED Condor

1.RS at 95K vs a .2RS at 120 is a no brainer .2RS buy if you are not hitting your budget ceiling at $95K... I view the delta to be 20-30K depending on which cars etc... The .2 was not out when I bought my secondhand .1RS... but if I add up the receipts (I stopped doing that) from my .1 mods, I would have been better off waiting for .2 RS car and I would have bought mooty's and been financially ahead... BUT I would have lost a whole track season (unaccpetable).

That being said, I personally find the looks of the .1RS more attractive and for some reason the FIRST USA RS has some allure to me...

from a pure performance and value perspective the .2RS makes more sense at $120ish than a .1RS at $95+ -- given that you will try to make the .1 perform on par with the .2

For street driving, I would buy the .1RS, no mods, and save the money... you will never really notice the perfomance difference on the street with the exception of a bit more torque from the 3.8...by a bit more torque, not enough to justify the delta IMHO.

For track work (save for the centerlocks), the .2 is superior and worth the increased cost when compared to trying to get a .1RS to a comparable performance level by modifying.

Carrera GT

The 2010/11 (3.8) GT3 RS is superior to the 2007/8 (3.6) RS in every way!

Chalk and cheese.
The 3.6 RS is Danny DeVito to the 3.8's Arnold Schwarzenegger.
Fantasia's hippo ballerina to Natalie Portman's Black Swan.
A farty volcano in Iceland compared to the towering majesty of Everest.

tcsracing1

with the same suspension mounts/chassis, wheel base and tub i wouldnt say chalk and cheese.....

Carrera GT

Chalk and cheese, I tell you! From the ridiculous to the sublime!
Parking lot autocross compared to 24hrs at Nurburgring!

911SLOW

So with these excellent metaphors you are basically saying that you've got to have "kangaroos loose in the top paddock" to get the earlier car..

BBMGT3

Doing the whole gearbox is a big mod!!!

I wonder if there is a laptime comparison of the gen 1 vs gen 2

Izzone

I believe 2 seconds / same driver at Sebring.....stock to stock, no cheater mods, no blown LSD, same rubber, no advanced aero, stock suspension set-up

Rubber / LSD / gearing equlizes one or the other way

BBMGT3

Ya I found some comparisons.

Anyyyywayyyy, I think to modify a .1 to run 2 seconds a lap quicker than it currently does is not so difficult.

The incremental marketing grates on me. $10-$15k for every second quicker on a 2 minute track.

Yes I know newer car, etc. But Porsche always sells it as "our best performing car EVER". Which it is... at the time... aargh.

P.J.S.

yes...but so worth it imho...

I did just the ring and pinion on my prior 996-3 and went a little overboard so to speak on my RS...

regearing exponentially increases my on track enjoyment level.

If I stay true to plan and keep this car for a long time, I will have no regrets on the layout for the gearing.

stock .1RS gearing is far too long imho

Carrera GT

I think it was Preuninger himself who coined the phrase "only a Drongo would buy a 3.6 RS!"

Anyway, the 3.8 has LED tail-lights! Does it get any better than that?! I mean, look how much better the navigation system is for entering destinations? And the headlights turn left and right with the steering wheel -- that's friggin' genius!

BBMGT3

I agree 100% about the gearing - I see 5th gear only rarely on track.

But wouldn't just going to a 3.89 R&P do it? Why the whole box?

Carrera GT

It seems to me the box needs to bring the long-legged 5th and 6th down to close ratios above 4th and 5th, then gear the car for a top speed of about 160 mph. I never get anywhere near 160 (maybe if I ran Fontana and wanted to risk life and limb around the outside of Fontana up on the oval) but I see some east coast tracks where cars are rev-limited in 6th (in Cup cars.) Still, a bump off the rev-limiter in 6th, unless you're wanting to win an enduro, doesn't seem like a bad compromise.