Schmidts Cat

I know for sure you can get it on their web site (see my link above). Not sure where else to get it.

And yes, I think this stuff is similar (?) to their marine "Black streak remover"

deputydog95

That guy is still promoting the black rear fender guards. Pre cut. He wants to use my car as a model. Having them put on this morning. I'll post pics. My factory ones are really stained. This is will a) cover the stains and b) protect them and the fenders from future damage. Oh, and c) look cool

I'll post pics.


I think I'm going to order some of that Mother's R3. Seems like a specific tool for this job. On a side note, after hours of polishing and waxing, my car is "like new" shiny again. I hate detailing.....

mdrums

I have black streak remover I use on my boat...hummm never thought of trying that on the car.

deputydog95

Check this out. Had it done today. I think it looks really good.

cfjan

That looks good! So you can buy the black stone guard pre-cut? That's not from Porsche, right?

rcg412

Wd40

deputydog95

It's not OEM. Check out my other thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...rotectors.html

Premier

To remove track marks from your paint protection film:

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/g...k-smudges.html

Leigh2

The adhesive remover made the 3M dull and you could see definite swirl marks...very noticeable. I have wet sanded 3M before to remove stubborn marks with good results...using very fine sandpaper...like 600 grit. Lightly rub then polish and it works well. The adhesive remover was a disaster...

Carrera GT

There's more than one 3M product -- the adhesive remover is a concentrated solvent in a spray can (black can, usually only in hardware stores or paint stores) ... that won't cause swirl marks, it will dissolve the plastic and then any rubbing will make a helluva mess! Not suitable for cleaning paint other than by an experienced pro ... it's like trying to sharpen a pencil with a belt-sander or maybe a chainsaw. There is a 3M "tar and wax remover" (blue can, usually in auto stores, some department store "auto" shelves) that will remove wax and aid things like clay bar cleaning of particularly aged and dirty paint. I still wouldn't use it on a plastic paint film, simply because that's not its bag.

As for wet-sanding, it's an acquired skill. While 600 grit will cut down really horrible scuffs and bonded contaminants, it's far too coarse for maintenance work. If someone wants to do their own paint correction work, of course, start by researching and practicing. In my experience, I start at 1500, then going to 1000 as needed, keeping everything clean, then finishing in 1500 before blending everything in 2000 and going to compounds to remove any edges from the 2000 without going through the clear coat.

With a clean surface and assuming you've still got clear coat (hopefully ... no color showing up on the pad) then as soon as you see the 2000 isn't helping, go back to 1500 and so on until the 2000 is making an imperceptible change with a flat working surface and no pressure ... then go to chemicals to erase the edges of the 2000. It's this iterative process that results in the liquid mirror hot rod finish -- completely unlike the Porsche factory "orange peal" finish, so be careful.

afridi

Mines felt permanently stained also.....I used meguires body scrub followed which got rid of the tire marks easily and then I used Meguires Quick wax spray and it worked.

No dulling at all.

Sweeper

WD40