PORGT34ME

I just purchase rear links and plan on getting the car aligned right after the install.
What is the best way to adjust the camber? Better yet. How do you adjust the car for both positive and negative camber? Tools ? or have shop do it.

Thanks

rmag

Have a shop do it, and in the front have them rotate the front struts to get more camber (gives you ~2.25 without shims, then go from there). I'm assuming your going for track alignment as you bought the rear links

peer

just got back from the shop, you need to rotate in front and have shims for adequate camber, the rears can be at least -2.1 without any modification.
for my mixed street/track after multiple searches on rennlist and discussion with the shop is as follows:
-2.5 camber front, 0 toe, 8.6 caster
-2.0 camber rear, 0.27 total toe in
this is with toyo R888s and will be changed when I get R6's on.

blake

+1. I'd recommend going to a shop that knows/services GT3s. Dealers seem to be hit or miss with track set-up.

10 GT3

You don't have to rotate the top hats to get significant camber. I am running 10mm shim packs on each side with -2.8 deg camber without rotating the top hats. Rotating the top hats gives another -2 degrees. By design, you can get -5 deg with rotated hats and a max shim pack. I would recommend to start with shims and rotate the top hats if shims aren't enough. Why? Adding shims widens the front track to help with turn-in and peak grip. As a rule, you only need to rotate the top hats if you are going to run more than -3 camber. Max rear camber also depends on which engine you have. For a 3.6l, they work well -2.0 to -2.2. A 3.8l has different geometry and needs a little less: -1.8 to -2.0. I am running -1.8 and my inner and outer temps with a probe type pyrometer are dead even at the track. Keep in mind that this is also tire dependent. With Hoosiers or slicks, you do need to run a little more camber.

blake

True, but installing shims moves the wheels forward which affects the caster (causing rubbing). If you want greater than -2.5 degrees of camber in the front, I'd recommend rotating. You can use shims to go beyond that point if needed....

With that said, I run a 996 GT3 as my exclusive track car. We tend to run -3 degrees+ in front, so rotating made the most sense. In the 997.2 GT3s, I have heard that less negative camber is required...

Interesting point about the rear camber settings per engine size.... I did not know that...

-B

CRex

Suspension tuning ain't a project you want to do on your own. Not only do you need an alignment machine and actual knowhow, but the risk of screwing up and making things worse far outweighs the cost and inconvenience of having a pro do it.

I'd suggest you focus on creating an alignment specs that suits your specific application (how much do you track and what tires do you plan to run? What's more important to you, the safety of an understeering car or the thrill of a waggly tail?). Once you have those numbers, take her to a pro shop.

PORGT34ME

I plan on using 2 sets of wheels. R6's for the track and Michelin's for the street. With approx 10- 12 track days. Not a daily driver, but local driving. Nothing longer than occasional 150 mile trips.