tcsracing1

If you decide on a RS, the Tequipment bar, harnesses and rear toe links can go in the RS.
The GT2 seats can be sold relatively quick as you have seen here on Rennlist.

here is a neat comparo on the toe links:
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=205

997gt3north

Personally, and speaking from experience, if you are only in the 3-5 day per year trackday person - no point with the toe-links. At the beginning of each season, just bring the car in for the oil change, SRF / Motul brake fluid change, pad change and alignment. If you ever sell the car you will most likely remove the toe links so now you have paid for them, paid to install and paid to uninstall - not worth it given your intentions.

If you are going to be a 10 day per year person and likely have the car for 3 years or so, then go ahead and do them. But at that point, I would consider purchasing a set of track wheels, used if possible, even before the toe-links. And, I would likely also place the Wevo or Rennline engine mounts on the list before the toe-links. And then I would put the rebuilt / beefed up LSD on the list before the toe links. Then the toe-links.


Paul's order of Modifications Program

1) Helmet / Gloves / Shoes
2) Motul / SRF brake fluid
3) Combo trackstreet alignment (-2.3f with 0 toe, -1.8r with stock toe in)
4) Rennline Gas Pedal only for easier heal / toe (http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Alu...nfo/P71.60.59/)
5) Seats (gt2 folding or 996 clubsports)
6) 1/2 roll bar / harness bar + Harnesses + HANs Device!!!!!!
7) Given #6, take 20 minutes and gut front trunk of liner etc - this gives significant room to transport stuff to track
8) buy 2 5 gallon fuel tanks to fit in gutted front trunk - fill them up at gas station in morning on way to track at 50% less than you pay at track
9) Track wheels + better track alignment (-2.7f with slight toe out, -2.2r stock toe in)
10) Wevo Engine Mounts (helps 2nd/3rd shift under load)
11) Call Guard and get them to send out friction disks / washers / etc and have your OE LSD properly built so that it functions in most brake zones
12) buy toe-links
13) install 996cup shift cables + contemplate re-gearing entire gearbox (it costs what ????????? - fvck that) - car is loud and awesome now
14) replace Wevo Mounts with Solid Rennline mounts - convince self car is like a cup now only heavier
15) contemplate stripping car, wider front fenders, race ABS module - look at self in mirror and cry - then remove and re-install everything you did above - car was almost perfect - I can't believe I'm selling it
16) sell car, seats, track rims through rennlist
17) buy gutted, race prepped 996gt3 with full cage through rennlist
18) sell gutted, race prepped 996gt3 to next guy through rennlist - I wanted a cup, I should have just bought the cup
19) buy 996 or 997 cup car through rennlist - heeyah, I'm a fvcking cupcar owner - how do I start the car?
20) buy 24 foot enclosed trailer
21) buy lightly used F250 for towing on eBay
22) buy used 996 / 997 TT / M3 for daily driver on eBay
23) employ race coach to teach you how to drive and start the car + buy stock in Michelin to hopefully recoup $$$ spent on slicks
24) crash cup car
25) fix body work with cheaper fiberglass parts
26) spend $$$ on engine rebuild
27) rebuild tranny
28) buy spare tranny
29) sell refreshed cupcar with spare tranny to guy at step #19
30) sell F250 to guy at step #21
31) sell 996/997 TT / M3 to guy at step #22
32) buy new large SUV for towing that is wife approved - if its a diesel, the wife better know where the diesel station is
33) buy slightly used 997gt3 that someone else just did all the work on that has a warranty and maybe also a gutted 996gt3
34) goto #7

sin911

^ LOL!

Here's what I did so far:

-GT2 Buckets
-OEM Clubsport Bar (Thanks Izzone )
-Schroth 6pt HANS specific harness
-Track wheels/tires
-Wevo semi-solid engine mounts

Next up:

-Guard LSD re-build
-Traqmate

tcsracing1

With toe links it helps with the the proper alignment for the track and the tires.

With the expense of a good corner balance and alignment, the toes really help with the process as well as hold the alignment longer.

I would do Wevo engine mounts after the toes have been delt with.
No sense in running around a track with track wheels and Wevo mounts and the toes out of wack?

AllanJ

As much as I like Paul's list I'd still do the toe links right away. I like predictability and the oem links can have issues under some cases. The links are cheap. Buy them now and then get your proper alignment & corner balance after putting them in (the same shop should do this). If you sell the car leave the new toe links in and give the new owner the factory parts in a box.

Cheers,

997gt3north

Another reason that I put these further down the list is that many of these after market exposed ball joint toe links are known to wear quickly - and that will result is excessive toe movement - far more than stock under load. I speak from experience on this issue. For those with these toe links, make sure you have your mechanic / self check for play in them - even after 1 season. They are almost a maintenance part in my opinion as they are expose to the elements.

tcsracing1

set of Tarretts in my RS with 10k miles.... used/abused in rain, shine and occasional snow .

997gt3north

I won't name the brands that I have seen issues with but lets just say it includes the big name that are used here. You can't check these just by looking at them (not saying you are but for others that are interested), you really have to imagine the forces that are on the wheel when cornering and then make a reasonable effort to try and see if there is play in the joint - i.e. jack up car / put on lift, leave tire on, place force on wheel (side to side) to see if there is undesired play

tcsracing1

100% correct. from what i have heard, one can expect trouble from certain manufactured toe links.

I was lucky, NJ-GT gave me his toe links with the RS during purchase/sale and they were shiny new Tarrett pieces.

Common perception is that Tarrett are the best in the business....

AllanJ

some firms like Tarrett are now selling boots to cover the exposed ends. Helps to make them last longer. Thx for bringing this up.

mdrums

Honestly the best mod you all can do is coaching coaching and more pro level coaching.

Try it...get a coach like Chris Hall, Seth Thomas or VR and see how faster they are in your car as it sits in it's stock form. When you can do what they do then let the mods begin. Yes get the safety stuff though...but all the engine and tranny mods and better than stock shocks ect can wait. Unless you just have the money to burn...I don't...so I spend my mod money on some pro level coaching.

kyrocks

+1 - mdrums said what I wanted to. Most people with GT3s have money. They are so focused on what to do to their car to be faster and it gets addictive...it's a disease - we all know that. Trust me, I'm not immune to this. One day you just have to slow mods down and get the teaching - best bang for buck, IMHO. That being said, I need a new LSD, toe links, corner balance, alignment, track wheels and tires, GT2 seats, roll bar, heel-toe pedals, ECU flash, intake, exhaust...etc.

Once you can talk the talk and prove yourself out on the track, let the mods begin, I say. For 3-5 track days a year, enjoy the car the way it is.

GTgears

Just a point of clarity, but you cannot just call me up and order a generic service pack. In my experience, I've seen the internal cup measurements range from as low at 71mm to higher than 73mm. That's a huge range. Porsche starts out their internal gap on their LSD at around 2.0mm on average. We go somewhat tighter than that when we rebuild them.

So let's say that I send you a generic service pack that is for the "average" cup height of 72mm. If you're the guy with a 71mm set of cups, your LSD is going to be rebuilt super loose and still won't lock after you've rebuilt it. If you diff is the 73mm version, it will be so tight it's gonna act almost like a spool. There is no one size fits all here.

What I suggest, when you are ready to service your LSD, is take your car to MB Euromotors and have Bernie do the work for you. He will disassemble, measure, and install the proper parts to make your LSD work properly. While removing the LSD and shipping it off to me for rebuilding is a DIY project, as outlined in the LSD Buster thread, the actual rebuilding of the differential itself really isn't and should be done by a professional in most instances.

Regards,

Matt Monson
Guard Transmission LLC

996toomey

I have toe links on my car from RSS. Can you PM me if not comfortable in open forum.

mobonic

GT2 seats, harnesses and hans device..

the car will be more than you can handle even at 80%... just drive it and have fun.