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Help with Center Lock Lubrication before Torque

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Old 03-27-2011 | 01:55 PM
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Default Help with Center Lock Lubrication before Torque

Can anyone shed some light on these issues for me:

1. When removing/replacing/retorquing wheels, the latest bulletin states I should grease multiple areas, including washer, conical ring, etc., which first requires disassembly of central bolt. I can't figure out how to do this to get to the parts that need the grease. The diagram shows a circlip, but I don't see one, and

2. (I hope not too stupid) If the only point I can use for lifting the car is the jack points in front of each rear wheel (when working on the rears), is there any place I can put a jack stand under the rear end if my jack is already on on the lifting point?

Thank you very much for any help. My car is wheel-less in the garage.
Old 03-27-2011 | 01:59 PM
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Lift from the center of the engine case to get rear up
Old 03-27-2011 | 02:23 PM
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I just did a thread search. For those interested, someone recommended just whacking (elegantly of course) the Centerlock nut against a protected surface like a shop rag. I used a flat piece of wood with a microfiber towel over it. One medium whack and the entire thing came apart--circlip, flat washer, conical washer, etc. Now to get some grease that is recommended, and put the thing back together and torque.
Old 03-27-2011 | 02:46 PM
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Lift from the center of the engine case to get rear up
That's bad for engine mounts.
You lift car up on engine really.

Yes, just drop it on a towel.
Old 03-27-2011 | 03:05 PM
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I used a small terminating (blade type) screwdriver to pry in the circular clip and the assembly open up. It's not difficult to do, the flat washer had to be gently pried off the centre nut, there is a little surface adhesion between the two.

It took me about 10 minutes to disassemble grease and reassemble all four centre lock nuts once I had them on my work bench.
Old 03-27-2011 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
That's bad for engine mounts.
You lift car up on engine really.

Yes, just drop it on a towel.

Me personally no.....I have one of those crazy high lift AC hydraulic jacks and dont need to lift from there.

My friend who has a 996 cup with broken air jacks lifted his from there and told me on the GT1 block it was OK to lift from there. I guess I was wrong passing on that info.

I am sure someone on here has an opinion on it
Old 03-27-2011 | 06:53 PM
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for non gt motors, you can't really lift on engine, it's the oil pan right there.
on gt cars, almost all the race shop life on the split case, this how it's done since the first 911 back in the 60's ....

izzone, i have 3 AC hydralic jacks. if you dont lift from engine case to put two jack stands on the jacking pads near the rear wheel, where do you lift?
Old 03-27-2011 | 07:36 PM
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Orbit told me he created leaks a few times jacking up car like that hurting liquid filled mounts.
Old 03-28-2011 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 911GT3
Can anyone shed some light on these issues for me:

2. (I hope not too stupid) If the only point I can use for lifting the car is the jack points in front of each rear wheel (when working on the rears), is there any place I can put a jack stand under the rear end if my jack is already on on the lifting point?

Thank you very much for any help. My car is wheel-less in the garage.
http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/

You are welcome
Old 03-28-2011 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mooty
for non gt motors, you can't really lift on engine, it's the oil pan right there.
on gt cars, almost all the race shop life on the split case, this how it's done since the first 911 back in the 60's ....

izzone, i have 3 AC hydralic jacks. if you dont lift from engine case to put two jack stands on the jacking pads near the rear wheel, where do you lift?
I lift the front as normal but slide a 4-5" block under each of the rear wheels so the car is relatively level when i let it down on the front stands.

I then go around the back and place my long AC jack either to the left or right of the rear cross member (where the huge fat aluminium piece goes from cross member to chassis) and lift with a couple of pumps to slide in the two rear stands. If you have a look at where I'm referring to, there is nothing to bend as its solid all the way through to chassis. Dealer suggested, works a treat!
Old 03-29-2011 | 10:21 AM
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Thank you savyboy, just ordered them.
Old 03-29-2011 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Polarporsche
I used a small terminating (blade type) screwdriver to pry in the circular clip and the assembly open up. It's not difficult to do, the flat washer had to be gently pried off the centre nut, there is a little surface adhesion between the two.

It took me about 10 minutes to disassemble grease and reassemble all four centre lock nuts once I had them on my work bench.
This works well for me, too. First, I rotate the conical ring around until I see the break in the circlip in the ring's indentation. Just slip a small screwdriver in there and pop it apart.

Next question: What grease do you use and where do you get it?
Old 03-29-2011 | 01:24 PM
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http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...=997gt32wheels
Old 03-29-2011 | 07:06 PM
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+1, picked mine up at the local Porsche dealer.




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