canigo

Hey fellas,

I bought a set of the red wheel nuts from suncoast.
Problem is, they only come with the outer piece of the nut, the red part, no internals...

So, you might think it would be easy to swap the internals, but I cannot figure out how to get them apart.

Any of you know how to take apart the wheel nuts or tried?

I called Suncoast to order the internals, well it seems that Porsche does not list the "mating cone" part number, but has the other internals, so helpful...

It sure would be nice if Suncoast told me up front that these were not 'complete' wheel nuts, because right now this has become an expensive pain in the #$%#$.

Any suggestions or knowledge would be appreciated...

tjsmaryland

Slap your CL nut assemblies thread side down on a a piece of wood and the cone will pop out with the clip. The stainless thrust washed behind the cone my pop out as well. If the washer does not come out, try cleaning the nut in lighter fluid to wash the grease out and free up the washer. You will need the Optimoly grease from Suncoast to assemble your new CL nuts.

kyrocks

I was going to order the red ones as well, but it SPECIFICALLY STATED on their site that the internals were NOT INCLUDED, so I didn't order them. The Black ones on the other hand, include everything. 500 bucks versus 800 or so.

canigo

cool, I will try this tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes. Back when I ordered them, the wording was not there about complete vs incomplete, maybe my situation prompted the update. ?

thanks guys!

mooty

yes, tjsmaryland is right.
sounds funny, but just bang it once on bench top, everything disassembles nicely.

canigo

yup, worked like a champ. many thanks indeed.

KBS911

Yes, went through this scenario as well when I ordered a red anodized set. Got the nuts but not the guts. Subsequently I ordered the internals, only got the washer, gasket, and circlip. Dealer thought it was confusing as well and ordered a complete set up and gave me the cone ring for free. Good folks. In reality a complete set would have been +$700 bucks.

It's nice to have two complete sets though.

1198r

If you get stuck let me know and I can send you the factory note on assembly including proper way to grease.

audiophilitis

Can you post factory assembly and greasing instructions?

1198r

I cannot get the document to small enough file to post with pictures, so text is best I can do:

Technical Information Service 4
73/10 EN 4405
Sep 9, 2010
The present document was valid at the time of print. A later version may be available online
Central wheel lock: Additional instructions for driving on race circuits (73/10)
Tools
Designation Type Number Description
Assembly aid Special tool 9794

Socket wrench Special tool 9796

Torque wrench Commercially available tool Nr.91 Pos.2

Technical values
Location Description Type Basic value Tolerance 1 Tolerance 2
Central bolt Tightening torque 600 Nm (444 ftlb.)
Central bolt Tightening torque 600 Nm (444 ftlb.) +/-30 Nm (+/-22 ftlb.)
Model year:
as of 2010
Vehicle Type:
911 Turbo (997)/911 Turbo S (997)
911 GT3 (997)/911 GT3 RS (997)/911 GT2 RS (997)
Equipment:
Central lock (I-no. 422, 430)
Concerns:
Vehicles with central lock on wheels
Situation:
Additional instructions for the use of the central lock components when driving on race circuits
Before a vehicle with central lock on wheels is driven on race circuits, the central wheel bolts must be greased as described below and tightened to a higher tightening torque.
Part Nos.:
000.043.020.00 → Assembly grease Optimoly TA 100g tube
Tools:
Socket wrench 9796
Assembly aid 9794 (for vehicles with PCCB – Porsche Ceramic Composite Brake)
Torque wrench Nr.91 Pos.2 (300–800 Nm/222–592 ftlb.)
Action Required:
1 Grease central wheel bolts in accordance with the following overview before driving the vehicle on race circuits.
To do this, first remove and partly disassemble the central bolts. For details, see → 440519 Removing and installing wheel with central bolts.
Overview of central bolt surfaces to be greased
Surface
Designation
Grease with Optimoly TA
Part No. 000.043.020.00

1
Circular area on central bolt -1-
Apply a light coating of grease (approx. 0.2 – 0.5 mm thick).

2
Trapezoidal thread on central bolt
-2-
Apply a generous coating of grease (approx. 0.5 – 1.0 mm thick).

3
Washer -3-
Do not grease the washer (applies to both sides)

4
Circular area of cone ring -4-
Apply a light coating of grease (approx. 0.2 – 0.5 mm thick).

5
Reserve bores on cone ring -5-
Fill bores with grease so that they are 1/3 to 2/3 filled with grease.

6
Inner circular area on cone ring -6-
Apply a light coating of grease (approx. 0.2 – 0.5 mm thick).

7
Conical area on cone ring
-7-
Apply a light coating of grease (approx. 0.2 – 0.5 mm thick).


Figure 1
2 Tighten central bolts to a higher tightening torque before driving the vehicle on race circuits.

Information
When fitting all wheels, the vehicle must never be supported by the wheel to be fitted → Lifting the vehicle .
Lifting the vehicle

Use a suitable torque wrench to tighten the central bolt using the three-step tightening procedure.
Tightening wheel
• Step 1: Tighten central bolt to → Tightening torque: 600 Nm (444 ftlb.) - -1-
• Step 2: Loosen central bolt by approx. 60° (1/6 turn) -2-
• Step 3: Tighten central bolt to → Tightening torque: 600 Nm (444 ftlb.)+/-30 Nm (+/-22 ftlb.) - -3-

WARNING
Unsecured central bolt
• Risk of damage to components
• Danger of accidents
→ After fitting the wheel, make sure that the locking pin is engaged correctly in the central bolt.
If the locking pin -1- is still at the rear position and has not yet engaged in the inner toothing of the central bolt after fitting the wheel, the central bolt is still not secured → Bolt not secured and must be secured manually to prevent it from becoming loose (applies to both road and race track use).
To do this, turn the locking pin to the left and right using a square extension until it engages in the central bolt.
Bolt not secured
When the central bolt is secured, the end of the locking pin -1- will be flush with the inner toothing of the central bolt → Bolt secured
Bolt secured
________________________________________
997150, 997151, 997350, 997351, 997420, 997421, 997450, 997451, 997630, 997631, 997650, 997651, 997810, 997811, 997850, 997851, 997860, 997861
Model year as of 2010
C00, C02, C05, C06, C07, C08, C09, C10, C11, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18, C19, C20, C21, C22, C23, C24, C25, C26, C27, C28, C32, C33, C34, C35, C36, C37, C38, C39, C41, C45, C46, C96, C97, C98, C99

audiophilitis

thanks for posting!

NBTBRV8

Pulling up an old thread, I am thinking of converting to red nuts. So to break the cone away you just tap the nut with the cone down on a block of wood and the jarring breaks it away from the nut? Also does anybody have any photos of the red nuts fitted, preferably on a Guards red car?

Reading through the regreasing guide, am I right in saying that you grease the surface on the back of the nut, but not on either surface of the washer, of which one surface mates up to the that flat surface on the back of the nut you greased?

mdrums

NBTBRV8..pm me your email and I will send you the pages with pictures from the workshop manual showing you what parts to grease and not grease and now to take apart and put together.

tasman

Mooty better go check your car. I think someone is trying to steal your wheels. Thank God they were centerlock so they counldn't figure out how to get them off.

NBTBRV8

Thanks, I've already got a copy and had that question after reading it. Basically you grease the surfaces either side of what the washer faces up to. It just seemed strange to say that you don't grease the washer then.