When Do Guys "Graduate" to Slicks?
#17
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Does the OP need an instructor? (around me, BLUE requires one and in white its encouraged to take one at least once per event). Not sure how many instructors want to hop in the right seat of a 400+hp car, on slicks these days. Also don't understand the need for slicks in a DE environment vs say, timed/racing environment where time really does matter.
#18
Rennlist Member
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First you run all tracks solo on Toyo's / MPSC / Nitto's.
Then you run them all the tracks again on Hoosiers all within 2 seconds a lap of the other GT3's on track that day.
Then you buy shocks and springs and voila, ready for slicks..
Then you run them all the tracks again on Hoosiers all within 2 seconds a lap of the other GT3's on track that day.
Then you buy shocks and springs and voila, ready for slicks..
#20
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The decision is really R compounds or (slicks+suspension+trailer) because once you make all the changes needed to make the slicks work properly the car will be very uncomfortable on the street. The best decision if you want to go that far would be to sell the street car and buy a cup (or equivalent) car.....as more and more GT3 Rennlisters seem to be doing.
#21
Burning Brakes
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The decision is really R compounds or (slicks+suspension+trailer) because once you make all the changes needed to make the slicks work properly the car will be very uncomfortable on the street. The best decision if you want to go that far would be to sell the street car and buy a cup (or equivalent) car.....as more and more GT3 Rennlisters seem to be doing.
-mike
#22
Platinum Dealership
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for me I felt like the hoosiers overpower the really soft front springs of the car- on high speed and high G load corners (like you see at infineon, or road atlanta, or rovals like fontana) the springs will actually compress to the point that you can get tire rub on the wheel well. at rinky dink tracks you don't have this issue but it's a really good indicator of how soft the suspension is with these cars.
I personally wouldn't recommend anyone who doesn't have "slick" experience on lower hp cars (like an MX-5 cup, SRF, etc) just go bolt them onto their 130k cars. realistically, as has been said- what is your goal? you looking to set DE lap time point by records? Not to demean the fun "track day" but really it's very common to want to upgrade the car to the point of neglecting the drover.
I agree with "racer" above that you might look to spend more focus on instruction rather than equipment if this is a question you're having. it's a really slippery slope and before you spend 15-20k on track days (2nd set of wheels, a few sets of hooters, new springs, new shocks, new sways, labor, trailer, etc) you could very easily ask someone who sits in the right seat and knows what they're talking about.
lastly, a disclaimer- racing a modernized car is a lot of fun. WAY more fun than track days. after a few months of "kicking ***" in my street car I decided to get a pro series race car, and haven't really looked back. it's safer (REAL roll bar, fire system, etc) more development oriented (data, lower hp and does comparable lap times to GT3's on track) and more disposable (bumpers are 200 bucks, tires are 800 a set)
I personally wouldn't recommend anyone who doesn't have "slick" experience on lower hp cars (like an MX-5 cup, SRF, etc) just go bolt them onto their 130k cars. realistically, as has been said- what is your goal? you looking to set DE lap time point by records? Not to demean the fun "track day" but really it's very common to want to upgrade the car to the point of neglecting the drover.
I agree with "racer" above that you might look to spend more focus on instruction rather than equipment if this is a question you're having. it's a really slippery slope and before you spend 15-20k on track days (2nd set of wheels, a few sets of hooters, new springs, new shocks, new sways, labor, trailer, etc) you could very easily ask someone who sits in the right seat and knows what they're talking about.
lastly, a disclaimer- racing a modernized car is a lot of fun. WAY more fun than track days. after a few months of "kicking ***" in my street car I decided to get a pro series race car, and haven't really looked back. it's safer (REAL roll bar, fire system, etc) more development oriented (data, lower hp and does comparable lap times to GT3's on track) and more disposable (bumpers are 200 bucks, tires are 800 a set)
#23
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for me I felt like the hoosiers overpower the really soft front springs of the car- on high speed and high G load corners (like you see at infineon, or road atlanta, or rovals like fontana) the springs will actually compress to the point that you can get tire rub on the wheel well. at rinky dink tracks you don't have this issue but it's a really good indicator of how soft the suspension is with these cars.
I personally wouldn't recommend anyone who doesn't have "slick" experience on lower hp cars (like an MX-5 cup, SRF, etc) just go bolt them onto their 130k cars. realistically, as has been said- what is your goal? you looking to set DE lap time point by records? Not to demean the fun "track day" but really it's very common to want to upgrade the car to the point of neglecting the drover.
I agree with "racer" above that you might look to spend more focus on instruction rather than equipment if this is a question you're having. it's a really slippery slope and before you spend 15-20k on track days (2nd set of wheels, a few sets of hooters, new springs, new shocks, new sways, labor, trailer, etc) you could very easily ask someone who sits in the right seat and knows what they're talking about.
lastly, a disclaimer- racing a modernized car is a lot of fun. WAY more fun than track days. after a few months of "kicking ***" in my street car I decided to get a pro series race car, and haven't really looked back. it's safer (REAL roll bar, fire system, etc) more development oriented (data, lower hp and does comparable lap times to GT3's on track) and more disposable (bumpers are 200 bucks, tires are 800 a set)
I personally wouldn't recommend anyone who doesn't have "slick" experience on lower hp cars (like an MX-5 cup, SRF, etc) just go bolt them onto their 130k cars. realistically, as has been said- what is your goal? you looking to set DE lap time point by records? Not to demean the fun "track day" but really it's very common to want to upgrade the car to the point of neglecting the drover.
I agree with "racer" above that you might look to spend more focus on instruction rather than equipment if this is a question you're having. it's a really slippery slope and before you spend 15-20k on track days (2nd set of wheels, a few sets of hooters, new springs, new shocks, new sways, labor, trailer, etc) you could very easily ask someone who sits in the right seat and knows what they're talking about.
lastly, a disclaimer- racing a modernized car is a lot of fun. WAY more fun than track days. after a few months of "kicking ***" in my street car I decided to get a pro series race car, and haven't really looked back. it's safer (REAL roll bar, fire system, etc) more development oriented (data, lower hp and does comparable lap times to GT3's on track) and more disposable (bumpers are 200 bucks, tires are 800 a set)
#24
Rennlist Member
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As most said, suspension not there to handle the slicks. Also Leigh2 mentioned, you must make further changes in alignment for slicks. THey are designed to run with LOTS of negative camber. They are a race tire. So you suspension will be whacked for the street even if you upgrade necessary bits...
#26
Rennlist Member
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for me I felt like the hoosiers overpower the really soft front springs of the car- on high speed and high G load corners (like you see at infineon, or road atlanta, or rovals like fontana) the springs will actually compress to the point that you can get tire rub on the wheel well. at rinky dink tracks you don't have this issue but it's a really good indicator of how soft the suspension is with these cars.
I personally wouldn't recommend anyone who doesn't have "slick" experience on lower hp cars (like an MX-5 cup, SRF, etc) just go bolt them onto their 130k cars. realistically, as has been said- what is your goal? you looking to set DE lap time point by records? Not to demean the fun "track day" but really it's very common to want to upgrade the car to the point of neglecting the drover.
I agree with "racer" above that you might look to spend more focus on instruction rather than equipment if this is a question you're having. it's a really slippery slope and before you spend 15-20k on track days (2nd set of wheels, a few sets of hooters, new springs, new shocks, new sways, labor, trailer, etc) you could very easily ask someone who sits in the right seat and knows what they're talking about.
lastly, a disclaimer- racing a modernized car is a lot of fun. WAY more fun than track days. after a few months of "kicking ***" in my street car I decided to get a pro series race car, and haven't really looked back. it's safer (REAL roll bar, fire system, etc) more development oriented (data, lower hp and does comparable lap times to GT3's on track) and more disposable (bumpers are 200 bucks, tires are 800 a set)
I personally wouldn't recommend anyone who doesn't have "slick" experience on lower hp cars (like an MX-5 cup, SRF, etc) just go bolt them onto their 130k cars. realistically, as has been said- what is your goal? you looking to set DE lap time point by records? Not to demean the fun "track day" but really it's very common to want to upgrade the car to the point of neglecting the drover.
I agree with "racer" above that you might look to spend more focus on instruction rather than equipment if this is a question you're having. it's a really slippery slope and before you spend 15-20k on track days (2nd set of wheels, a few sets of hooters, new springs, new shocks, new sways, labor, trailer, etc) you could very easily ask someone who sits in the right seat and knows what they're talking about.
lastly, a disclaimer- racing a modernized car is a lot of fun. WAY more fun than track days. after a few months of "kicking ***" in my street car I decided to get a pro series race car, and haven't really looked back. it's safer (REAL roll bar, fire system, etc) more development oriented (data, lower hp and does comparable lap times to GT3's on track) and more disposable (bumpers are 200 bucks, tires are 800 a set)
My car runs great on Hoosiers; Perfect I'd say. Maybe it is the.2 suspension, but I would not change it. Yes, maybe the car could be a little faster at the limit, but it feels great and is plenty fast the way it is. DE 'member?
If you are into SM, go racing. I never will. You see your expensive car 6 weekends a year instead of every day.
Also; I already have a job and I am not looking for a second job that drains my bank account, requires constant data analysis, thinking, practicing, cheating, lying, camping with noise, blood and tears. But that's just simple me..
#27
Nordschleife Master
#28
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If you are into SM, go racing. I never will. You see your expensive car 6 weekends a year instead of every day.
Also; I already have a job and I am not looking for a second job that drains my bank account, requires constant data analysis, thinking, practicing, cheating, lying, camping with noise, blood and tears. But that's just simple me..[/QUOTE]
Amen...... I'm lucky enough to break away for a weekend or two every now and then to exercise my car before obligations set in. The reality is that I still have to work for a living, but oh how I love my quality time with the GT3. Makes it all worthwhile!
Also; I already have a job and I am not looking for a second job that drains my bank account, requires constant data analysis, thinking, practicing, cheating, lying, camping with noise, blood and tears. But that's just simple me..[/QUOTE]
Amen...... I'm lucky enough to break away for a weekend or two every now and then to exercise my car before obligations set in. The reality is that I still have to work for a living, but oh how I love my quality time with the GT3. Makes it all worthwhile!
#29
Rennlist Member
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Peter, what's the diff between a coach and a DE instructor (provided that the instructor has tons of experience)?
The coach just confirms what a good DE drover suspect he should do and what a bad DE drover has no clue about. He sits down with you knowing with certainty how to make you go around the track faster, safe or not. He looks at data with you to prove it. If you are lucky he will take your car around to set a baseline that is much faster then you have ever gone around without beating on your car as much..
Trust me on this one; If you have done 3 solo events you are waiting time and money if you have not hired a coach..
#30
Rennlist Member
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Are you running R6's or actual Hoosier slicks?