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GT1 Coolant Pipe Prevention / Fix on 2011 GT3RS @ Shark Werks

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Old 02-02-2011, 10:10 AM
  #46  
911dev
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It happened on the street to my friend's 996 x50 turbo with roughly 20k on the odo. My grandmother used to drive faster so it was not due to hard use. Car was never tracked. Low speed heading home, saw smoke, end of story.
Old 02-02-2011, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by sharkster
Interesting and I wasn't going to say anything but since you're here I actually followed that ebay link and bought a set to try and look at and paid a certain dgreen78 etc... via paypal which must be you Might want to come clean on that one heh.. But from what I see it's not a complete kit and just for the TT's vs the gt3? Either way I'm interested to look at it. There are different ways to do it and James has been doing it the way we showed since early 06 and never had an issue since.
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Old 02-02-2011, 11:43 AM
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Seems that there are several ways to fix this including welding the fitting. I spoke to another local pcar race shop here and they have been getting lots of calls to fix this permanently. They weld the fitting.

sux that Porsche is unreceptive to fixing this right w/o more glue on their dime.
Old 02-02-2011, 12:27 PM
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+ 1000

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Exactly, come clean!!
At least become a member, or better yet a sponsor..
Old 02-02-2011, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by deputydog95
Isn't there still a big issue welding a cast piece to the extruded fittings?
As Dan was saying on the other thread welding is another way to do it but a bigger modification with more complexity and potential problems in the fix itself. Prior to the machined fittings being sold on Ebay ($200 as posted in these threads) we believed trying to weld the existing tubes to the cast piece was less than ideal. This kit might be a better solution; we have ordered one and do plan to see how well it works on a future build. It looks like it is not a complete kit though from the auction descriptions, we will determine this once we have seen and tested it.

To weld this will probably add 5-6 hours of labor (maybe more) to further disassemble / clean everything and weld, plus the ~$200 in parts etc. There is a greater risk involved in ruining the cast pieces and there's always the possibility the weld will crack later too.
Old 02-02-2011, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Terry L
Do we know of anyone who has actually suffered the catastrophic failure on the street? I doubt the Feds will be that interested in track issues. BTW, we mostly complain when the government interferes with car design in the name of safety or national policy like fuel mileage. Much as I hate to spend lots of money for a fix which Porsche should do for free, I'm not sure that I want to ask big brother to fix it.
Happened to me on the street, but the Feds have no jurisdiction here : )
Old 02-02-2011, 06:56 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by sharkster
As Dan was saying on the other thread welding is another way to do it but a bigger modification with more complexity and potential problems in the fix itself. Prior to the machined fittings being sold on Ebay ($200 as posted in these threads) we believed trying to weld the existing tubes to the cast piece was less than ideal. This kit might be a better solution; we have ordered one and do plan to see how well it works on a future build. It looks like it is not a complete kit though from the auction descriptions, we will determine this once we have seen and tested it.

To weld this will probably add 5-6 hours of labor (maybe more) to further disassemble / clean everything and weld, plus the ~$200 in parts etc. There is a greater risk involved in ruining the cast pieces and there's always the possibility the weld will crack later too.
Alex the 200 price for these parts is a bit expensive don't you think? Can't you make your own kit for a lot less and make it GT3 specific too?

John
Old 02-02-2011, 06:59 PM
  #53  
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I did the weld on my TT after the second failure in a years time. The first fitting lasted from new in "02 until 2008. I purchased a new factory piece, which failed in less than 1 year. It was still under warranty. We welded the two fittings on the oil cooler (inlet and outlet) and I do not think that piece will ever fail again.

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Old 02-02-2011, 07:53 PM
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I sent a letter to von Platen @ PCNA today, asking him to get involved, and do the right thing.
I will post if I hear back.
Old 02-03-2011, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by John D II
I did the weld on my TT after the second failure in a years time. The first fitting lasted from new in "02 until 2008. I purchased a new factory piece, which failed in less than 1 year. It was still under warranty. We welded the two fittings on the oil cooler (inlet and outlet) and I do not think that piece will ever fail again.
John, is that the oil cooler at the back on top of the engine? I got something going on in that area but I can't see what without a lot of digging.

Also, the new factory piece you bought, was it just the fitting or the actual manifold?
Old 02-03-2011, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 911SLOW
Alex the 200 price for these parts is a bit expensive don't you think? Can't you make your own kit for a lot less and make it GT3 specific too?

John
I would be comfortable with the eBay kit and pricing if I knew for sure it was complete... at this point I am assuming it is not until dgreen or alex prove otherwise...
Old 02-03-2011, 02:20 AM
  #57  
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John, is that the oil cooler at the back on top of the engine? I got something going on in that area but I can't see what without a lot of digging.

Also, the new factory piece you bought, was it just the fitting or the actual manifold?
Yes, it is the oil cooler and it takes a lot of digging to get to it. You can remove the alternator and get a better look. If the failure is on the drivers side you can re-epoxy it in the car. If it's on the passenger side, it's a lot more difficult. We ended up removing the motor to get to it and replace it. Unfortunately, the new replacement part lasted less than a year.

I had to buy the complete manifold, but in retrospect, there is no need to, you can just re-epoxy or weld the original piece.

Old 02-03-2011, 10:02 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by John D II
Yes, it is the oil cooler and it takes a lot of digging to get to it. You can remove the alternator and get a better look. If the failure is on the drivers side you can re-epoxy it in the car. If it's on the passenger side, it's a lot more difficult. We ended up removing the motor to get to it and replace it. Unfortunately, the new replacement part lasted less than a year.

I had to buy the complete manifold, but in retrospect, there is no need to, you can just re-epoxy or weld the original piece.
Thanks a bunch John, great info.

Mine's dripping on the driver's side, but I would much rather drop the engine and fix all at once... the proper way and be done with it.

So from your reply, there are two of these on this one manifold?
Old 02-03-2011, 11:45 AM
  #59  
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Yes, inlet and outlet. The picture shows the piece with one side missing - that's the one that popped out and remained on the hose...
Old 02-03-2011, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by John D II
Yes, inlet and outlet. The picture shows the piece with one side missing - that's the one that popped out and remained on the hose...
Duh, should have thought about that, LOL.

Thanks, and now that you've spelled it out, it's obvious on the pic


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