GT1 Coolant Pipe Prevention / Fix on 2011 GT3RS @ Shark Werks
#46
It happened on the street to my friend's 996 x50 turbo with roughly 20k on the odo. My grandmother used to drive faster so it was not due to hard use. Car was never tracked. Low speed heading home, saw smoke, end of story.
#47
Nordschleife Master
Interesting and I wasn't going to say anything but since you're here I actually followed that ebay link and bought a set to try and look at and paid a certain dgreen78 etc... via paypal which must be you Might want to come clean on that one heh.. But from what I see it's not a complete kit and just for the TT's vs the gt3? Either way I'm interested to look at it. There are different ways to do it and James has been doing it the way we showed since early 06 and never had an issue since.
... or ban
#48
Seems that there are several ways to fix this including welding the fitting. I spoke to another local pcar race shop here and they have been getting lots of calls to fix this permanently. They weld the fitting.
sux that Porsche is unreceptive to fixing this right w/o more glue on their dime.
sux that Porsche is unreceptive to fixing this right w/o more glue on their dime.
#50
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To weld this will probably add 5-6 hours of labor (maybe more) to further disassemble / clean everything and weld, plus the ~$200 in parts etc. There is a greater risk involved in ruining the cast pieces and there's always the possibility the weld will crack later too.
#51
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Do we know of anyone who has actually suffered the catastrophic failure on the street? I doubt the Feds will be that interested in track issues. BTW, we mostly complain when the government interferes with car design in the name of safety or national policy like fuel mileage. Much as I hate to spend lots of money for a fix which Porsche should do for free, I'm not sure that I want to ask big brother to fix it.
#52
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As Dan was saying on the other thread welding is another way to do it but a bigger modification with more complexity and potential problems in the fix itself. Prior to the machined fittings being sold on Ebay ($200 as posted in these threads) we believed trying to weld the existing tubes to the cast piece was less than ideal. This kit might be a better solution; we have ordered one and do plan to see how well it works on a future build. It looks like it is not a complete kit though from the auction descriptions, we will determine this once we have seen and tested it.
To weld this will probably add 5-6 hours of labor (maybe more) to further disassemble / clean everything and weld, plus the ~$200 in parts etc. There is a greater risk involved in ruining the cast pieces and there's always the possibility the weld will crack later too.
To weld this will probably add 5-6 hours of labor (maybe more) to further disassemble / clean everything and weld, plus the ~$200 in parts etc. There is a greater risk involved in ruining the cast pieces and there's always the possibility the weld will crack later too.
John
#53
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I did the weld on my TT after the second failure in a years time. The first fitting lasted from new in "02 until 2008. I purchased a new factory piece, which failed in less than 1 year. It was still under warranty. We welded the two fittings on the oil cooler (inlet and outlet) and I do not think that piece will ever fail again.
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991.2 GT3 RS Weissach Racing Yellow
991.2 Turbo S GT Silver
991.2 GT3 Chalk (Manual)
2022 Cayenne White
former 1972 911T white, 1984 911 3.2 Targa black, 993 cab white, 993TT arena red, 993TT silver, 996TT speed yellow, 991.1 GT3 white
www.speedtechexhausts.com
info@speedtechexhausts.com
Testimonials SpeedTech Exhaust Videos facebook
#55
Nordschleife Master
I did the weld on my TT after the second failure in a years time. The first fitting lasted from new in "02 until 2008. I purchased a new factory piece, which failed in less than 1 year. It was still under warranty. We welded the two fittings on the oil cooler (inlet and outlet) and I do not think that piece will ever fail again.
Also, the new factory piece you bought, was it just the fitting or the actual manifold?
#56
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I would be comfortable with the eBay kit and pricing if I knew for sure it was complete... at this point I am assuming it is not until dgreen or alex prove otherwise...
#57
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John, is that the oil cooler at the back on top of the engine? I got something going on in that area but I can't see what without a lot of digging.
Also, the new factory piece you bought, was it just the fitting or the actual manifold?
Also, the new factory piece you bought, was it just the fitting or the actual manifold?
I had to buy the complete manifold, but in retrospect, there is no need to, you can just re-epoxy or weld the original piece.
#58
Nordschleife Master
Yes, it is the oil cooler and it takes a lot of digging to get to it. You can remove the alternator and get a better look. If the failure is on the drivers side you can re-epoxy it in the car. If it's on the passenger side, it's a lot more difficult. We ended up removing the motor to get to it and replace it. Unfortunately, the new replacement part lasted less than a year.
I had to buy the complete manifold, but in retrospect, there is no need to, you can just re-epoxy or weld the original piece.
I had to buy the complete manifold, but in retrospect, there is no need to, you can just re-epoxy or weld the original piece.
Mine's dripping on the driver's side, but I would much rather drop the engine and fix all at once... the proper way and be done with it.
So from your reply, there are two of these on this one manifold?
#59
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Yes, inlet and outlet. The picture shows the piece with one side missing - that's the one that popped out and remained on the hose...
#60
Nordschleife Master