11GT3RS Roll Bar or Rear Cage
#16
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Somewhere in a galaxy far, far away....
Posts: 17,106
Likes: 0
Received 258 Likes
on
172 Posts
What do you plan on doing with your RS throughout ownership?
#17
Admin
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Porsche roll bars and cages:
t-equipment roll bars:
996 : 2 versions exist one that allows the use of a 6-p belt (photo 1) part number 996 580 981 00 and one called the panamericana (photo2) that doesn’t, part number 996 580 980 00.
997: a roll bar again called panamericana (photo3) part number 997 044 800 18
(996 versions can be used in the 997 GT cars)
Cages:
Clubsport package was first introduced in the mk1GT3 and then various versions were also installed in the mk2 gt3, 996RS, 997 GT2 clubsport, 997gt3/rs and 997.2 gt3/rs and GT2RS. It includes a rear cage with an option to install the front part. The cages were only available for RoW cars.
Part number for the original 996gt3 cage was 996 580 982 00/1 (photo 4). You can read there how Porsche marketed the cage back then, the page is from the product information technical training brochure that dealers used to advise potential customers.
The Porsche clubsport/RS cages have been revised 5 times following changes in FIA rules and copying changes made to the cup car cages. (if anyone one wants part numbers or more information let me know)
Fortunately these cars have extremely tough bodies and, many times, people walk away unharmed from roll-overs in 996 and 997s without any roll bar at all.
Adding one of t –equipment bars or an equivalent aftermarket roll bar is, without a doubt, better than having no bar at all and it’s probably the simplest way of using the much needed when in the track, bucket seat / 6p belt and a head restrain system. But these bars do mount on the seat belt mounts.. These mounts were designed to hold a person in place during a crash and, IMO, not to resist the massive forces of a severe impact or roll over from a 1.5 ton car.
The Porsche T equipment bars use 4 bolts and do not mount on the rear struts. (btw some after market bars do)
It is also worth mentioning that none of these bars comes with FIA or other official safety certification.
The factory 996 GT2 GT3 Clubsport and 996RS rear cages are FIA approved and mount with bolts on reinforced plates for the floor and on the rear struts. They offer the advantage of having a bolt-in front cage section and in the later 997 versions, allow the use of front door bars.
Alternatively, you can have a fully custom welded cage which, depending on the fabricator and material, can be much stronger than all of the above.
Or, you can strip your car and dash and install a proven current cup cage. (The cup cages have been revised numerous times following the latest international racing safety rules and Porsche's own R&D as they always examine wrecked cup cars to improve their design.)
This is a game of compromise..
What you want to do with your car, how much you want to spend and what sort of irreversible modifications you are willing to make.. But the fact remains, a cage (or roll bar) is only as strong as its weakest link.
t-equipment roll bars:
996 : 2 versions exist one that allows the use of a 6-p belt (photo 1) part number 996 580 981 00 and one called the panamericana (photo2) that doesn’t, part number 996 580 980 00.
997: a roll bar again called panamericana (photo3) part number 997 044 800 18
(996 versions can be used in the 997 GT cars)
Cages:
Clubsport package was first introduced in the mk1GT3 and then various versions were also installed in the mk2 gt3, 996RS, 997 GT2 clubsport, 997gt3/rs and 997.2 gt3/rs and GT2RS. It includes a rear cage with an option to install the front part. The cages were only available for RoW cars.
Part number for the original 996gt3 cage was 996 580 982 00/1 (photo 4). You can read there how Porsche marketed the cage back then, the page is from the product information technical training brochure that dealers used to advise potential customers.
The Porsche clubsport/RS cages have been revised 5 times following changes in FIA rules and copying changes made to the cup car cages. (if anyone one wants part numbers or more information let me know)
Fortunately these cars have extremely tough bodies and, many times, people walk away unharmed from roll-overs in 996 and 997s without any roll bar at all.
Adding one of t –equipment bars or an equivalent aftermarket roll bar is, without a doubt, better than having no bar at all and it’s probably the simplest way of using the much needed when in the track, bucket seat / 6p belt and a head restrain system. But these bars do mount on the seat belt mounts.. These mounts were designed to hold a person in place during a crash and, IMO, not to resist the massive forces of a severe impact or roll over from a 1.5 ton car.
The Porsche T equipment bars use 4 bolts and do not mount on the rear struts. (btw some after market bars do)
It is also worth mentioning that none of these bars comes with FIA or other official safety certification.
The factory 996 GT2 GT3 Clubsport and 996RS rear cages are FIA approved and mount with bolts on reinforced plates for the floor and on the rear struts. They offer the advantage of having a bolt-in front cage section and in the later 997 versions, allow the use of front door bars.
Alternatively, you can have a fully custom welded cage which, depending on the fabricator and material, can be much stronger than all of the above.
Or, you can strip your car and dash and install a proven current cup cage. (The cup cages have been revised numerous times following the latest international racing safety rules and Porsche's own R&D as they always examine wrecked cup cars to improve their design.)
This is a game of compromise..
What you want to do with your car, how much you want to spend and what sort of irreversible modifications you are willing to make.. But the fact remains, a cage (or roll bar) is only as strong as its weakest link.
#19
Burning Brakes
The 997.2 RS is a half or full cage and requires plates welded to the floor on North American cars. I would not let anyone weld plates inside my car. At manufacture as a bare chassis, of course, but once finished, no way - but that's me. Other bolt in bars use the same mounting points and I prefer OEM given the choice.
#20
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Somewhere in a galaxy far, far away....
Posts: 17,106
Likes: 0
Received 258 Likes
on
172 Posts
Welding the floor of a finished car leaves room for "questionability" because of third party evolvement. Who is to say how properly the job is completed as it is not "factory" even if factory plates are purchased.
Also, the floors in the 997 tub are not very thick and therefore susceptible to heat damage depending on the gage of steel used etc..
This can be an issue for both safety and resale.
Welding anything to the floor of a finished car can be considered bastardizing in the resale market.
I can see why Bob would be hesitant of welding anything to his nice floors unless he really had to.
This is where the tequipment bar makes a nice alternative for those who wish to road & track their cars for fun and need harness capability and a little added security for peace of mind.
I have seen poor jobs of bars welded in porsches and i have also seen really good jobs of bars welded in porsches where it looks perfectly "factory".
My RS 2356 has the factory plates already in the floor and not only makes the factory bar install tidy, it is cheaper labour too
just bolt in and go! yeee-haaa!
#21
Nordschleife Master
Just thought i would give my 2 cents since i have been down this road myself.
Welding the floor of a finished car leaves room for "questionability" because of third party evolvement. Who is to say how properly the job is completed as it is not "factory" even if factory plates are purchased.
Also, the floors in the 997 tub are not very thick and therefore susceptible to heat damage depending on the gage of steel used etc..
This can be an issue for both safety and resale.
Welding anything to the floor of a finished car can be considered bastardizing in the resale market.
I can see why Bob would be hesitant of welding anything to his nice floors unless he really had to.
This is where the tequipment bar makes a nice alternative for those who wish to road & track their cars for fun and need harness capability and a little added security for peace of mind.
I have seen poor jobs of bars welded in porsches and i have also seen really good jobs of bars welded in porsches where it looks perfectly "factory".
My RS 2356 has the factory plates already in the floor and not only makes the factory bar install tidy, it is cheaper labour too
just bolt in and go! yeee-haaa!
Welding the floor of a finished car leaves room for "questionability" because of third party evolvement. Who is to say how properly the job is completed as it is not "factory" even if factory plates are purchased.
Also, the floors in the 997 tub are not very thick and therefore susceptible to heat damage depending on the gage of steel used etc..
This can be an issue for both safety and resale.
Welding anything to the floor of a finished car can be considered bastardizing in the resale market.
I can see why Bob would be hesitant of welding anything to his nice floors unless he really had to.
This is where the tequipment bar makes a nice alternative for those who wish to road & track their cars for fun and need harness capability and a little added security for peace of mind.
I have seen poor jobs of bars welded in porsches and i have also seen really good jobs of bars welded in porsches where it looks perfectly "factory".
My RS 2356 has the factory plates already in the floor and not only makes the factory bar install tidy, it is cheaper labour too
just bolt in and go! yeee-haaa!
If you go the 997 clubsport route it is important to use a proper shop. I had mine welded in my the same shop theat did Trakcar's.......get refrence before letting someone cut up your car.
For what it is worth.....mine has never squeaked......
A bar connected to the seat belt anchors is better than no bar. Maybe the DAS bar with feet is the best choice if you do not want to weld to the tub.
I came very close to getting the DAS bar, but ended up buying this bar pre-owned for a decent price form another forum member.
#22
If you're going to get a welded cage, start by getting the car on an alignment rack. Then put it back on the rack once the cage is in. And have a clear agreement with the cage builder that if they tweak the alignment (or the chassis!) it's on their dollar to get the car back to square and straight.
#23
Those that installed the clubsport bar and plates. what did you do with the carpet? I know you can order carpet cut for it but it's an extra $1000. I would definitely order the rear center shelf.
Wouldn't mind seeing pictures of the carpet if anyone has any.
Thanks.
Wouldn't mind seeing pictures of the carpet if anyone has any.
Thanks.
#24
Nordschleife Master
I just cut the carpet
#27
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The floor pieces were just hand trimmed...
FWIW... Rather than welding, my dealerships race shop drilled the tub and bolted the plates in. When questioned, they told me they would never weld on a new factory tub and the bolts would be more than sufficient. The cage is nice and tight with no squeeks... especially now that its not rubbing on the passenger side coat hanger.
#29
Clubsport is a must for GT3 and RS, lucky that's std for the RS here, even for street use GT3, I want the Clubsport pack, look cool and more protection.