removing shims..do I need to reset toe ?
12-28-2010, 06:56 PM
#1
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removing shims..do I need to reset toe ?
Do I have to put the car on an alignment rack if I remove an equal amount of shim from each side.
I have the struts rotated and shims added, but have -3.5 neg front. I want to remove one big shim, and one small shim from each side. For around -2.5 to -2.75
Does anyone have a picture of the lower control arm bolt, that they can post, so that I know which one to loosen ?
Will the car's steering wheel be all messed up if I just remove shims ?
Is it easier to due with the front wheels off the car ?
Thanks
I have the struts rotated and shims added, but have -3.5 neg front. I want to remove one big shim, and one small shim from each side. For around -2.5 to -2.75
Does anyone have a picture of the lower control arm bolt, that they can post, so that I know which one to loosen ?
Will the car's steering wheel be all messed up if I just remove shims ?
Is it easier to due with the front wheels off the car ?
Thanks
12-28-2010, 07:14 PM
#2
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You should re-align the car.
Steering wheel should not be messed up but toe should re-checked when camber is changed as
camber will affect toe.
BTW become a Rennlist member, it's cheap!
Steering wheel should not be messed up but toe should re-checked when camber is changed as
camber will affect toe.
BTW become a Rennlist member, it's cheap!
12-28-2010, 08:26 PM
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I am +1 on a fresh alignment and because it is a street car the rear toe eccentric bolts tend to lose the numbers quite easily so unless you have upgrade those do check them often.
Also check all your suspension nuts bolts in every alignment
Interestingly on the specific issue of removing or adding camber shims without the need for a new alignment Porsche Motorsport allows that in the cup workshop manual for the race cars without the need for a new alignment. That is why the shims do come in various thicknesses so that it is predetermined what the effect of each is as far as camber change is concerned. I guess that for a quick race small crude camber change that could work.
But since we are not into racing do a proper alignment.
Btw the correct sequence of alignment is:
Ride height
Rear camber
Rear toe
Front camber
Front toe
Corner weights and recheck height
Also check all your suspension nuts bolts in every alignment
Interestingly on the specific issue of removing or adding camber shims without the need for a new alignment Porsche Motorsport allows that in the cup workshop manual for the race cars without the need for a new alignment. That is why the shims do come in various thicknesses so that it is predetermined what the effect of each is as far as camber change is concerned. I guess that for a quick race small crude camber change that could work.
But since we are not into racing do a proper alignment.
Btw the correct sequence of alignment is:
Ride height
Rear camber
Rear toe
Front camber
Front toe
Corner weights and recheck height
12-28-2010, 10:13 PM
#6
I am +1 on a fresh alignment and because it is a street car the rear toe eccentric bolts tend to lose the numbers quite easily so unless you have upgrade those do check them often.
Also check all your suspension nuts bolts in every alignment
Interestingly on the specific issue of removing or adding camber shims without the need for a new alignment Porsche Motorsport allows that in the cup workshop manual for the race cars without the need for a new alignment. That is why the shims do come in various thicknesses so that it is predetermined what the effect of each is as far as camber change is concerned. I guess that for a quick race small crude camber change that could work.
But since we are not into racing do a proper alignment.
Btw the correct sequence of alignment is:
Ride height
Rear camber
Rear toe
Front camber
Front toe
Corner weights and recheck height
Also check all your suspension nuts bolts in every alignment
Interestingly on the specific issue of removing or adding camber shims without the need for a new alignment Porsche Motorsport allows that in the cup workshop manual for the race cars without the need for a new alignment. That is why the shims do come in various thicknesses so that it is predetermined what the effect of each is as far as camber change is concerned. I guess that for a quick race small crude camber change that could work.
But since we are not into racing do a proper alignment.
Btw the correct sequence of alignment is:
Ride height
Rear camber
Rear toe
Front camber
Front toe
Corner weights and recheck height
12-29-2010, 01:13 AM
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Good question and it has to do with tolerances allowed by factory in all measurements and the how they interact with each other.
You set the required initial height first then align camber and toe and then corner weight and try to keep everything within spec. Usually when car is ok everything will come within the factory tolerances plus minus what is permitted.
Of course I assume after cornering within 10-20kg you can re adjust other numbers if they are really off, but usually 2-3mm will do it. Gt3’s are quite balanced from factory despite the rumors of being heavy in the ***. : )
Check the street and cup manual accordingly:
