Driving impressions of 997.1 GT3 vs. 997.2 GT3
#31
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I'm probably one of those extra delicate, whiney drivers, but I think I do, from left to right to left at Sebring, I think the *** tosses less.
FYI, I need at least 4-6 sessions to get up to speed....
Also, I had double adjustable Koni's on my Mustang and it is hell to figure it all out, even worse with adjustable sway bars..
FYI, I need at least 4-6 sessions to get up to speed....
Also, I had double adjustable Koni's on my Mustang and it is hell to figure it all out, even worse with adjustable sway bars..
#33
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I think the .1 sport setting was close to useless ... Certainly was at the ring IMHO...
#35
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^ cool.
you wont regret it.
you wont regret it.
#36
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#37
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#38
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With low-mileage cars like 2010 you shouldn't much to worry about at delivery. I'd just keep an eye out for abuse with the clutch and brakes but sounds like you're familiar with GT cars to begin with.
Will wait for your pictures!
#40
Burning Brakes
#41
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This book, while somewhat dated is quite informative about suspension setup:
http://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Your-.../dp/0912656468
Enjoy your '10 GT3
http://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Your-.../dp/0912656468
Enjoy your '10 GT3
#42
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#43
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Once you have that on the car how now do you adjust the compression and rebound of the dampers on the car? Sure you click a little **** or turn a screw,
but how do you figure out what the "best" setting is for you, your car, and the track ... and you not only do this for the front but you also have to dial in the rear as well. In short it is highly complex and interdependent, and all of this is not considering any of the alignment variables also.
I would also agree that if one never does AX and never has a chance to push car 10/10 - it is quite difficult to tune it properly as it would be quite dangerous to do same stunts on a track that one can do in an open field at auto-x event.
difference between stock and tunable setup for an amateur is quite simple - you can control understeer/oversteer ratio. some instructors say it is not what amateur should do - you kinda 'have' to drive what you have and learn it, but some instructors may for some reason mistaken this fun hobby with some sort of work. it is not work for me to get on a track, or a purpose. it is just fun. to drop in $10K in parts in to suspension is also quite fun, as well as to play with it afterwards.
i would agree, 4 way adjustable shocks are overkill for non-pro, but generic compression-rebound adjustment is pretty nice to have and most importantly, there is quite significant knowledge base already on JRZ/Moton on how to set them up and what to do. I would not think it is that much complicated.
i have heard from several people so far that new 997.2 SPASM is extremely good.
#44
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it is quite easy to sense what is 'best' at least with auto-x runs as your time shows it right away and you feel pretty much right away as well how your car behaves and if it starts to slide out of the corner or stops turning in. with some practice it all becomes quite sensible.
I would also agree that if one never does AX and never has a chance to push car 10/10 - it is quite difficult to tune it properly as it would be quite dangerous to do same stunts on a track that one can do in an open field at auto-x event.
difference between stock and tunable setup for an amateur is quite simple - you can control understeer/oversteer ratio. some instructors say it is not what amateur should do - you kinda 'have' to drive what you have and learn it, but some instructors may for some reason mistaken this fun hobby with some sort of work. it is not work for me to get on a track, or a purpose. it is just fun. to drop in $10K in parts in to suspension is also quite fun, as well as to play with it afterwards.
i would agree, 4 way adjustable shocks are overkill for non-pro, but generic compression-rebound adjustment is pretty nice to have and most importantly, there is quite significant knowledge base already on JRZ/Moton on how to set them up and what to do. I would not think it is that much complicated.
i have heard from several people so far that new 997.2 SPASM is extremely good.
I would also agree that if one never does AX and never has a chance to push car 10/10 - it is quite difficult to tune it properly as it would be quite dangerous to do same stunts on a track that one can do in an open field at auto-x event.
difference between stock and tunable setup for an amateur is quite simple - you can control understeer/oversteer ratio. some instructors say it is not what amateur should do - you kinda 'have' to drive what you have and learn it, but some instructors may for some reason mistaken this fun hobby with some sort of work. it is not work for me to get on a track, or a purpose. it is just fun. to drop in $10K in parts in to suspension is also quite fun, as well as to play with it afterwards.
i would agree, 4 way adjustable shocks are overkill for non-pro, but generic compression-rebound adjustment is pretty nice to have and most importantly, there is quite significant knowledge base already on JRZ/Moton on how to set them up and what to do. I would not think it is that much complicated.
i have heard from several people so far that new 997.2 SPASM is extremely good.
I guess my point is that per $, replacing a GT3s suspension completely is a pretty expensive act for incremental gains... where for the most part none of
us can push a GT3 to its 'out of the box' limits ... I myself have previously poured ridiculous amounts on money into my 964 and 993 ...
When I can push a GT3 around the ring with a BtoG of around 7:20 I'll buy myself a new suspension!
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I actually think the PASM on the .2 is much improved, although in fact I think its more to do with the change in spring rates ...
I also think for resale, unless you are using it as a pure track car, or selling it as such ... having a huge investment in the suspension is either a zero sum game or a real resale limiter ...
#45
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just as an example of this, think about a 2-way adjustable shock system; firstly you have to get the spring rates for the F & R "correct" that is "tuned" so that the F and R springs compress and rebound at the correct (complimentary) rates, this is dependent upon the weight of the car over the front and the rear axles, it could be 50/50 or 40/60 etc ... and the dynamic you want to "dial in" to the system...
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to start with setup - there is a well known penske guide http://www.penskeshocks.co.uk/downlo...TechManual.pdf
after than it is a personal decision to keep it or sell it. there is always constant demand for jrz/moton suspension parts, so, it is not going to take long to sell it.