P.J.S.

stripping a 996-3 (a la mooty and many others) is the final step in the evolution of the the modern porsche DE driver...

you have your DE Doctorate and you are either smart and got to the end quickly or you paid out a lot of tuition and it took some time to figure it out...

I am bordering on the latter... but luckily I am only one car past my mistake... several people have bought and sold and modified many many porsches to get to their doctorate... (cough cough mooty)

Now do not get me wrong... I love the RS... I mean it is an RS... but in order to fully enjoy it, I cannot rationalize the mod spending or it will make me angry... it is a strange blend of happiness and stupidty and I have to just leave it at that...

If my young kids both go to school where I want them to... I am likely sunk anyway... so part of me says I have to build it up now because as they get older... I am in for some real tuition pain.

FFaust

Amen to that

GT

Another idea by someone who tried it. Try to find some used dymags (if you do they'll be not too pricey) and then also change toe links.
The dymags are -20kgs of unsprung weight (with the titanium bolts) and will effectively make your suspension frequency (ie spring stiffness) go up by at least 10%. Braking, understeer, roll, traction and acceleration will improve as well. With the toe links you ll eliminate the first biggest geometry issue of the elastic connections.

The above were tried by spending $$$ and difference was really immense.. You ll also get to keep your stock suspension for a while longer.

Or just accept that you have the bug and just wait until you do all of the mods together. I ended up doing so all of the suspension mods + engine + diet program and spend a ridiculous amount of money. Always better once and be done with it.
However of the 50 odd mods I have done to my car, the dymags made the biggest difference. It just felt like a different car.

silverboy

Thanks again gents. You know I was thinking that even if don't track to often my end goal is to have a more 'reactive' ride as Nizer aptly put it. I am now inclined to go for the toe links, locking plates and sway bars first and dog bones, monoballs later. The comments on the shocks will save me big bucks - thanks.

PJ - modding it on a piece meal basis sort of justifies the exercise. One go bill usually scares me. I also think the hunt is often better than the kill.

So far my mods are - GMG center muffler delete, RG5's, GT2 seats, rear brake duct upgrade, Wevo mounts. I like the positive impact the Wevo had on the car. Made it more 'reactive' and 'edgier'. This is making me go for the solid bushings, mono *****...etc.

Next in line is a header (decat) and tune.

All the best again gents.

D-Uber Cars

Slippery slope. Found out with my 996 GT3. Spent resourses to upgrade all H/W and added Motons. In the end based on my limited track time, took too long to sort out for both street and track. It was close but was a constant works in progress.
This time around on the RS, a good alignment, toe links with lockouts and a light weight wheel/tire set up are the way to go.

silverboy

great advice dude.

Fooshe

Some of the best advice I got when I first stepped into my GT3 was don't do a damn thing....just drive the car first. Get to know it VERY well first, then make small changes to the car so it will do what you want it to do and it can be tuned to your driving style.

I was going to do all the mods I heard about, but a few quality Rennlister's showed me the light and saved me a ton of money. I drove the car stock a few times and then did some minor, basic things. New tires, rear toes with locking plates, a corner balance and an alignment; done. The car was a whole new beast and the set up was just want I needed to go a bit faster and get the car closer to where it likes to be. Just doing those things made the car so much more responsive and fun to drive.

There will be plenty of time to burn through the big dollars later.

Enjoy!

utkinpol

bump steer arms will be needed if you going to lower car way down to cup car height. you have adjustable LCAs already, so, what you may want to do is to replace front fork arms so you could adjust caster, replace rear toe arms as was noted before (look at tarett parts) and put solid bushings for fork arms mounts into your LCAs.

all the rest I would keep stock if you are not sure yourself what is it you want to change and why. just set proper camber from -2 to -3 degrees, 0.5 more degrees in front than in rear and get alignment done.

TRAKCAR

+1. You need nothing. It was not really needed, but I changed LSD and rear toe arms for better adjustment. My car is lowered only 10mm, there is a little strain on the sway bar, so at least adjustable drop links would not hurt, but I did not do it.

I think the trick is not messing with the car too much and just drive t a lot. I see many cars with bolt on stuff not going faster bacause they are working out some issue with whatever they changed last...

va122

A lot of people wind up being slower because the suspension isn't set up correctly eg. shocks.

TRAKCAR

Oops, I just found one OEM drop link in my car, so Orbit did put an adjustable on after all. better call him that he forgot to put it on the invoice ;-)

tcsracing1

i got just about everything you can upgrade on a RS suspension. it is overkill for my ability but its my hobby and get off on it.

All one needs is:

sharkwerks bi-pass (or similar example)
rear toe links (to hold your alignment better under constant stress)
adjustable GMG or GT2 sway bars

The rest of the bits including suspension is really only necessary when you begin using sticky tires.
And unless you have somebody who knows how to bolt it all in and properly align it, forget about making it work to your liking.

A fresh set of slicks on a RS will let you feel the limitations of your stock suspension.
My RS aligned and bumpsteer'd on regular toyo 888 has so much grip/feel compared to stock its like being a heroin addict in a poppy field.

TripleM

Totally agree if 6 times a year...