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Old 10-29-2010, 03:46 PM
  #16  
Carrera GT
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Originally Posted by Leigh2
"So how does this tool (the Bubble balancer) that seems so simple work? do you still need to add weights? how much and where etc?"

The bubble balancer has to be on a flat surface and out of the wind (inside a trailer works well). You place the head on the stand then stabilize and use the 3 adjustment screws to center the bubble in the circle. Then you put the wheel on the head where it centers on the cone shape and again you stabilize the wheel so it doesn't move. The bubble goes off-center if the wheel is out of balance. You then place (stick on) weights on the outer wheel rim (one at a time) until the bubble is in the center of the circle. Mark the spot and dismount the wheel and stick on the weights somewhere they won't hit the caliper. Good idea usually to remove all the old weights first... Takes about 5 minutes to do each wheel and the stick on wheel weights are readily available. We keep a few can of brake-clean around to clean off the wheels so the weights stick better.. The top comes off and the base unscrews from the post so easy to store... Ours has been rattling around in the trailer for years and still works flawlessly....very cheap, simple and effective piece of equipment. The only "challenge" with its use is to keep the wheel still as they tend to wiggle endlessly; but you'll be an expert after your first set.
Don't use any type of brake cleaner or products like brakleen on wheels -- it will discolor anodized surfaces and it will dissolve clear coat or painted wheels. No fun. If you get that stuff on a wheel, rinse it with soapy water, then a cleaner wax.

For applying wheel weights, use a 3M surface cleaner with a label that says "safe on all painted surfaces" and check for anodized wheels to find a safe cleaner. Things like "goof off" can suffice.

For the weights, there's a process for applying to either the inside or outside radius to get a good balance. Years ago, static balancing was the only game in town, but I've long since forgotten the process. I remember my father made a little "hanger" to preposition the weight to see where it should go (inside, outside) and another hanger to sit diametrically opposite to offset the weight of the hanger itself. It was more art than science -- at least that's a good excuse.

Personally, of all the jobs in a typical shop, the last place you want to be is around the tire mounting and balancing. It's a dangerous job, powerful equipment, huge forces and no safety, plus the chemicals -- not fun. The idea of a simple static balancer in the trailer makes sense. It's "good enough" and since most performance tires tend to be reasonably well balanced, symmetrical and round, the weights don't have much work to do. I can't quite image trying to get the static balance of a 345/19 on the back of a 911 ... you might end up with a lot of weights. Just remember to keep the weights in lines as close to outside of the rim (tires never has "spot" weight imbalance, it's always going to be an average over an area.) Having a can of 3M surface adhesive and adhesive remover would help with any trial and error.
Old 10-29-2010, 03:54 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 911SLOW
I know it sounds gay but I won't visit the tyreshop unless I have a full bottle of L'Oreal Elnett hairspray it's a little more expensive than your average drugstore hairspray but i like it a lot.
Highly reccomended and stops turning of tyre with style. : )

John
I have CCW's too and it does the same thing. Funny story about the above..

Last minute I need tires mounted and it is the end of the track day on a Saturday.. No place is open around Road Atlanta. I go to WalMart and give this poor guy 2 315/30/18 track tires and run into the store to get Hair Spray.. (It of course comes in a purple bottle ) I hand it to him and say use this to mount the tires. Poor guy works on this for an hour.. He eventually gets them on, with only hairspray. It works great.. They don't rotate as easy.

2 weeks later my wife opens my trunk and here is a 1/2 bottle of purple hairspray.. (and you thought the guy at WalMart gave me a funny look )

BTW they mounted my track tires at Low Low Wal-Mart prices... It was $22 for both.. If I didn't feel so guilty I'd probably go back.

Last edited by 007DT; 10-29-2010 at 03:58 PM. Reason: .
Old 10-29-2010, 04:01 PM
  #18  
Leigh2
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Thanks for the tip on the solvents...nasty stuff.
I have done rears and they are HUGE but it still works; it's usually the fronts that misbehave and need the most attention.
Old 10-29-2010, 04:33 PM
  #19  
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Great feedback guys. Looks like this is a very common issue especially with forge wheels. I was told by a tire shop that some times people will sand blast the inner rim of forge wheel to give it more "bite" on the bead of tire. I can just imagine doing that and cause endless slow air leaks. I like the hair spray and 3M cleaner idea. I will save lubricant jokes for another day

Placement of weights on inner or outer rim of wheels with portable bubble balance is an art of guesstimate ....

By the way, knowing a good tire shop will save you major $$$. My Porsche dealer charge $300 to road force balance 4 tires. I use Tire Pro at Folsom California and it only cost $15 each to road force balance. I still think rotating tires 1/2 way through tract session can help even out tire rotation
Old 10-29-2010, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Targa Tim
I don't see how this rotational movement is upsetting a wheel's balance, it is not like the weight has changed. Please elaborate.
tire, like wheels, are not evenly weighted about the circumference. when they balance the wheel, the tire wit is accounted for. so... if your tires rotated on the rim, in theory, your tire/wheel combination is not off balance.
Old 10-29-2010, 10:39 PM
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FWIW, I always had my tires rotate on the rim withmy VOLK wheels, but never on my monoblock and 3-piece BBS..

I just wish the weights would stop flying off.. I have to tripple tape all of them..
Old 10-29-2010, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I just wish the weights would stop flying off.. I have to tripple tape all of them..
why dont you just drive slower
Old 10-29-2010, 11:07 PM
  #23  
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I don't know what it is, my shop puts the same weights on the same BBS wheels as the CUP cars, they don't lose them but I do, every time, first session I lose at least 2 wheels?? What could be different?
Old 10-29-2010, 11:21 PM
  #24  
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Great discussion...thanks to all
Old 10-30-2010, 11:03 AM
  #25  
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Trakcar this seems to be a common problem with VOLK wheels.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...highlight=volk
Might be worth a call to the manufacturer for suggestions....
Old 10-30-2010, 03:30 PM
  #26  
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It was worse with the VOLK and I knew it was a common problem, so I hoped it was no problem with the BBS. But same problem.

It is weird, because they use the same wheels and weights on the CUP cars and they don't lose them!
Old 10-30-2010, 04:08 PM
  #27  
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Now do cupcars use tirewarmers much like f1 does? Mike
Old 10-30-2010, 09:38 PM
  #28  
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My tires (Toyo) on my CCW wheels spun too but I fixed this problem.

I had my shop (Vortex Motorsports in Tampa) bead blast the wheel bead and mount my tires dry. No more problems with the tires spinning around on the wheel.
Old 11-01-2010, 04:08 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mdrums
My tires (Toyo) on my CCW wheels spun too but I fixed this problem.

I had my shop (Vortex Motorsports in Tampa) bead blast the wheel bead and mount my tires dry. No more problems with the tires spinning around on the wheel.
Any problem with slow leak issue when you bead blast the wheel?
Old 11-01-2010, 10:43 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mikymu
Any problem with slow leak issue when you bead blast the wheel?
Nope they hold air. It's not really a rough surface, just not slick and/or polished like the wheel bead on these and other wheels normally are.


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