Pagid Yellow GT3/RS Gen2 Questions
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Wishing I Was At The Track
Posts: 13,663
Received 1,889 Likes
on
973 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So just ordered Pagid Yellows for my RS from Craig @ Rennstore and will be installing shortly. He had a couple of suggestions/recommendations for installing that I wanted to run by those who've already been down this road to confirm and get any feedback.
1. Remove and don't reinstall what he described as anti-rattle hardware - didn't have exact part description because Porsche apparently changes frequently between generations/models. Description unclear but in the past have looked like small ceramic pucks that sit between pad backing plate and pistons. Reason: While possible to reinstall, it will not leave adequate clearance for thicker Pagid pads and can lead to rotor damage.
2. Put a small (approx 10mm) 45 degree bevel on leading edge of pad. Reason: Helps reduce pad squeal.
3. Disconnect and ziptie pad-thickness monitoring connectors. Reason: Pagid no gots.
He also mentioned that some GT3 owners rotate their Pagid pads periodically to correct for wear taper and extend life of pad. Wasn't to recommend either way - just full disclosure.
Craig was a wealth of information and I hope I'm not revealing any trade secrets here.
Anyway, would appreciate others experiences on any of the above.
Thanks.
1. Remove and don't reinstall what he described as anti-rattle hardware - didn't have exact part description because Porsche apparently changes frequently between generations/models. Description unclear but in the past have looked like small ceramic pucks that sit between pad backing plate and pistons. Reason: While possible to reinstall, it will not leave adequate clearance for thicker Pagid pads and can lead to rotor damage.
2. Put a small (approx 10mm) 45 degree bevel on leading edge of pad. Reason: Helps reduce pad squeal.
3. Disconnect and ziptie pad-thickness monitoring connectors. Reason: Pagid no gots.
He also mentioned that some GT3 owners rotate their Pagid pads periodically to correct for wear taper and extend life of pad. Wasn't to recommend either way - just full disclosure.
Craig was a wealth of information and I hope I'm not revealing any trade secrets here.
Anyway, would appreciate others experiences on any of the above.
Thanks.
#2
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
1) Correct, leave them off
2) Why bother, they will end up squealing anyhow (I've never done it)
3) Yep
I've never rotated pads on either of my GT3s, but could probably get an extra day or two out of pads if you rotate after 3 days (they only last between 5-7 days)
Craig's a good guy to work with ... bought tons of stuff from him.
2) Why bother, they will end up squealing anyhow (I've never done it)
3) Yep
I've never rotated pads on either of my GT3s, but could probably get an extra day or two out of pads if you rotate after 3 days (they only last between 5-7 days)
Craig's a good guy to work with ... bought tons of stuff from him.
#3
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
1. if you leave them on, you really have to shove the pads to get in. but those things SOMETIMES reduce squeal. i leave them in until they self destruct, then i dont replace them after that.
2. you can chamfer it, it will still squeal.
3. yes, otherwise you will burn it out anyways.
4. i do rotate my pads. it's easy to do (front only) when i bleed brakes. i dont flip the rear pads, very little wear.
2. you can chamfer it, it will still squeal.
3. yes, otherwise you will burn it out anyways.
4. i do rotate my pads. it's easy to do (front only) when i bleed brakes. i dont flip the rear pads, very little wear.
#4
Still plays with cars.
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If your rotors are new, remove the anti squeal shims. If the rotors are worn, you can leave them on. Properly bedded my RS 19 and 29's do not squeal and didn't on my 04 GT4, the 07 RS nor the new 10 RS.
I never bothered tapering the pads either. If new rotors, yeah the pads are too thick and you need to remove the anti squeal gizmos. Put them back in after a few track days.
I never bothered tapering the pads either. If new rotors, yeah the pads are too thick and you need to remove the anti squeal gizmos. Put them back in after a few track days.
#5
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What Mooty said, but I only flip the front pads upside down after 4 days, then they are good for another 4 days. I only have 6 days on them, but the rears seem to wear slightly more then the fronts. 3 more track days and I will remove, measure and report.
The rear wear indicators will still work, or my wires are still connected for some reason, but I will request it all removed or bagged and zip tied next time I put the new ones in.
The rear wear indicators will still work, or my wires are still connected for some reason, but I will request it all removed or bagged and zip tied next time I put the new ones in.
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Have them on my 2010 GT3, 2.5k miles. They squeal, and have done since installed, especially the slow stops in traffic but if you brake harder they dont make a noise. Seems the volume is directly and inversely proportional to how hard you hit the brake pedal. Doesnt bother me at all.
Trending Topics
#8
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I use Yellows and Craig is correct, remove (you will have to anyway to get the stock pads out) the anti squeal shims. The Yellows are thicker pad and there really is no extra room for these shims and they do not keep the Yellows from squealing anyway.
You can bevel the edge if you want. I use to but do not anymore. It never helped the squeal issue anyway.
Either tie up the pad sensors like Craig mentioned or go to your dealer and get some used up pad sensors from a tech and clip the wires near the plug, solder them together and tape them. Plug them inand you will have a nice clean install with no wire hanging and zip tied up.
You can bevel the edge if you want. I use to but do not anymore. It never helped the squeal issue anyway.
Either tie up the pad sensors like Craig mentioned or go to your dealer and get some used up pad sensors from a tech and clip the wires near the plug, solder them together and tape them. Plug them inand you will have a nice clean install with no wire hanging and zip tied up.
#9
#10
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have always used the OE pads...I am not sure why using the yellow is a good idea? It seems from reading the comments that they do not last longer than the OE ( I get 5-6 on rears and 8-10 on fronts).
They are less abrasive on the rotors and they do not squeal. so what is the rationale for them?
They are less abrasive on the rotors and they do not squeal. so what is the rationale for them?