No fuel is not conserved during the warn-up phase. The AFR is independent of the oil viscosity. The difference in pumping parasitic losses from the diff in oil viscosity between 0W and 5W is so trivial you'd be hard pressed to actually measure it. The 0W is for better lubrication in very cold temps, not mpg.

Don't believe everything you read or hear. Objective scientific testing separates fact from fiction. Companies make billions of dollars in profit per year by duping consumers.

You said you don't drive your Porsche hard when it's hot... It's meant to be driven hard hot, but not cold. Porsche builds race cars for the street. Enjoy it - safely!

 

More conjecture... and this is what's troubling about oil thread debates.

A "good oil" may be good for some engines but we don't know if the un-approved oil is good for a Porsche engine or any other specific engine if it hasn't been independently tested and approved to specific oil test sequences. In addition without being part of the car maker or similar oil approval process an oil supplier is free to change the oil chemistry whenever they feel like it without re-testing or even divulging the chemistry changes. Consumers have no means to know.

BTW - what is the definition of a "good" oil vs. a "better" oil vs. the "best" oil, etc. ?????? Do you see the problem with these discussions?

 

^ Some fabulous Motul oils are not approved.
And in the approval list are some oils that I wouldn’t put even in my Husqvarna Lawn mower.

And btw I am not debating today I have the flu.

 

Can you technically define "fabulous" and how it relates to your Porsche engine oil lubrication requirements or that of your Husqvarna lawn mower?

This is PRECISELY why the engineering and scientific communities test instead of guessing or buying into advertising claims or baseless opinions - be they well intentioned or self-serving.

There is no basis to conclude any oil is "fabulous" without objective scientific testing, especially if you can't even define "fabulous" for the purposes of engine oil lubrication and the specific engine family in question.

This is always the problem when oil becomes a religion...

BTW, if Motul want's to be included on the approved oil lists they need to submit their oils for independent certification and agree to NOT change oil formulations without re-testing and certification prior to distribution. This is for consumer protection as an unscrupulous purveyor of oil could certify an oil and then distribute a cheaper/inferior/inappropriate oil that is not approved. Car makers actually purchase approved oils in the marketplace and test them year round to be sure the formulation remains unchanged.

Get well.

 

BTBaby I am an atheist.
Also I have a problem following lists and rules.
I’ll give to you the point about fabulous; it was an extravaganza to make my statement.
Besides didn’t I say I am not debating? Must be the f*cking flu and meds.

 

A few hours in the Brauhaus and you'll be fine...

With a big enough stick most any dog or man can be trained to follow rules and lists.

 

BeenthereB: More great info. Thanks!

911slow: Hope you feel better soon; maybe a little Kentucky Bourbon.

 

There is a great deal of knowledge here....it is good to read the different opinions however as a non expert driver...I put more trust in the factory engineers and do follow their recomendations

 

The USA manual is part of the problem. It recommends 5w-40 and 5w-50 as alternatives; which seem like good ones in my case. Try finding Porsche A40 approved 5w-40 Mobil 1 Supersyn in the states. I have not been successful. If you find it let me know. In the interim I've enough.

 

Castrol Syntec 5W-40 sold in the U.S. has Porsche A40 approval.

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...syntec_usa.pdf

Pennzoil Ultra also claims Porsche A40 approval for the 5W-40 viscosity.

http://www.pennzoil.com/sites/pennzo...ropean5W40.pdf

 

OK, let's take this back down to layman's terms, because I am not an engineer nor am I technically oriented - how many engine failures have we seen BECAUSE one of the Porsche recommended oils was used, whether 0-40W or 5-40W or whatever?

 

Well, not to fan the flames but the overwhelming majority of Porsche engines that experience any mechanical trouble are filled with Mobil 1 0w-40 oil. The oil is one of the common factors in engine failure.

Of course, the overwhelming majority of Porsche engines that do *NOT* experience mechanical trouble also are filled with Mobil 1 0w-40 oil.

My best advice is to run an oil that meets Porsche's approval for oils and has the right viscosity grade(s) for the climate where you live and drive your car.

But the real key is to change the oil more often than the owners manual says. For example my 02 Boxster's owners manual gives 15K miles for oil changes, 30K miles for filter changes. I change both every 5K miles.

Same for my 03 Turbo though the owners manual may give a shorter interval between oil/filter services.

The Boxster has over 234K miles on the original engine. The Turbo over 40K miles.

Roughly I've spent $5000 on oil/filter changes for the Boxster. Most I've done myself for less than $100 in parts/oil. This $5000 represents less than half the cost of a new engine. And an engine that has suffered from infrequent oil changes need not blow up to ruin one's experience with a car.

A noisy, clattering, ticking, engine that uses oil, smokes and possibly fails smog checks (here in CA anyhow) can make one's time with the car pure H*ll.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

The OP was asking about the pros and cons of 0W vs. 5W, not about any engine oil related failures. That debate is in another thread...

 

I knew of Castrol but not of the Penn. Thanks.

I very well may end up going with the Syntec (5w-40).

I hear they're both great products.

 

Impressive miles on the Boxster.

I did my first oil change at or about 1,100 miles. From here on I'll change it every 5k or once a year, whichever comes first. My once a year change will be right before winter storage (about 4.5-5 months). I plan on doing it myself.