oil viscosity and type
#31
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I do realize that 0w is for cold starts. Fuel is also conserved due to the lower viscosity during the warm up phase, correct? I also thought I had read where a 0w-40 does not retain the higher viscosity number as a 5, 10, 15w-40 after -say- 1000 miles.
BTW, what does this info have to do with me enjoying my Porsche. Thanks for the info though.
BTW, what does this info have to do with me enjoying my Porsche. Thanks for the info though.
No fuel is not conserved during the warn-up phase. The AFR is independent of the oil viscosity. The difference in pumping parasitic losses from the diff in oil viscosity between 0W and 5W is so trivial you'd be hard pressed to actually measure it. The 0W is for better lubrication in very cold temps, not mpg.
Don't believe everything you read or hear. Objective scientific testing separates fact from fiction. Companies make billions of dollars in profit per year by duping consumers.
You said you don't drive your Porsche hard when it's hot... It's meant to be driven hard hot, but not cold. Porsche builds race cars for the street. Enjoy it - safely!
Last edited by beentherebaby; 08-15-2010 at 10:03 PM.
#32
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Every year or so I have 2009 2008 2007 etc etc Porsche gives a Technical Service Bulletin which lists the approved oils this is the approval list and also issues again almost annually a Porsche's certificate tsb, the A40 is the oil specification code which covers all models after 1984 but the cayenne v6, for the v6 the code is C30.
Dont worry about these things so much. A good oil is good regardless if Porsche approved it or not.
John
Dont worry about these things so much. A good oil is good regardless if Porsche approved it or not.
John
A "good oil" may be good for some engines but we don't know if the un-approved oil is good for a Porsche engine or any other specific engine if it hasn't been independently tested and approved to specific oil test sequences. In addition without being part of the car maker or similar oil approval process an oil supplier is free to change the oil chemistry whenever they feel like it without re-testing or even divulging the chemistry changes. Consumers have no means to know.
BTW - what is the definition of a "good" oil vs. a "better" oil vs. the "best" oil, etc. ??????
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#33
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^ Some fabulous Motul oils are not approved.
And in the approval list are some oils that I wouldn’t put even in my Husqvarna Lawn mower.
And btw I am not debating today I have the flu.
And in the approval list are some oils that I wouldn’t put even in my Husqvarna Lawn mower.
And btw I am not debating today I have the flu.
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#34
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This is PRECISELY why the engineering and scientific communities test instead of guessing or buying into advertising claims or baseless opinions - be they well intentioned or self-serving.
There is no basis to conclude any oil is "fabulous" without objective scientific testing, especially if you can't even define "fabulous" for the purposes of engine oil lubrication and the specific engine family in question.
This is always the problem when oil becomes a religion...
BTW, if Motul want's to be included on the approved oil lists they need to submit their oils for independent certification and agree to NOT change oil formulations without re-testing and certification prior to distribution. This is for consumer protection as an unscrupulous purveyor of oil could certify an oil and then distribute a cheaper/inferior/inappropriate oil that is not approved. Car makers actually purchase approved oils in the marketplace and test them year round to be sure the formulation remains unchanged.
Get well.
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Last edited by beentherebaby; 08-15-2010 at 08:09 PM.
#35
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BTBaby I am an atheist.
Also I have a problem following lists and rules.
I’ll give to you the point about fabulous; it was an extravaganza to make my statement.
Besides didn’t I say I am not debating? Must be the f*cking flu and meds.
Also I have a problem following lists and rules.
I’ll give to you the point about fabulous; it was an extravaganza to make my statement.
Besides didn’t I say I am not debating? Must be the f*cking flu and meds.
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#36
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With a big enough stick most any dog or man can be trained to follow rules and lists.
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#38
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There is a great deal of knowledge here
....it is good to read the different opinions however as a non expert driver...I put more trust in the factory engineers and do follow their recomendations
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#39
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Last edited by 911dev; 08-18-2010 at 10:08 PM.
#40
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Castrol Syntec 5W-40 sold in the U.S. has Porsche A40 approval.
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...syntec_usa.pdf
Pennzoil Ultra also claims Porsche A40 approval for the 5W-40 viscosity.
http://www.pennzoil.com/sites/pennzo...ropean5W40.pdf
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...syntec_usa.pdf
Pennzoil Ultra also claims Porsche A40 approval for the 5W-40 viscosity.
http://www.pennzoil.com/sites/pennzo...ropean5W40.pdf
Last edited by beentherebaby; 08-17-2010 at 02:28 AM.
#41
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OK, let's take this back down to layman's terms, because I am not an engineer nor am I technically oriented - how many engine failures have we seen BECAUSE one of the Porsche recommended oils was used, whether 0-40W or 5-40W or whatever?
#42
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Of course, the overwhelming majority of Porsche engines that do *NOT* experience mechanical trouble also are filled with Mobil 1 0w-40 oil.
My best advice is to run an oil that meets Porsche's approval for oils and has the right viscosity grade(s) for the climate where you live and drive your car.
But the real key is to change the oil more often than the owners manual says. For example my 02 Boxster's owners manual gives 15K miles for oil changes, 30K miles for filter changes. I change both every 5K miles.
Same for my 03 Turbo though the owners manual may give a shorter interval between oil/filter services.
The Boxster has over 234K miles on the original engine. The Turbo over 40K miles.
Roughly I've spent $5000 on oil/filter changes for the Boxster. Most I've done myself for less than $100 in parts/oil. This $5000 represents less than half the cost of a new engine. And an engine that has suffered from infrequent oil changes need not blow up to ruin one's experience with a car.
A noisy, clattering, ticking, engine that uses oil, smokes and possibly fails smog checks (here in CA anyhow) can make one's time with the car pure H*ll.
Sincerely,
Macster.
#43
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#44
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Castrol Syntec 5W-40 sold in the U.S. has Porsche A40 approval.
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...syntec_usa.pdf
Pennzoil Ultra also claims Porsche A40 approval for the 5W-40 viscosity.
http://www.pennzoil.com/sites/pennzo...ropean5W40.pdf
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...syntec_usa.pdf
Pennzoil Ultra also claims Porsche A40 approval for the 5W-40 viscosity.
http://www.pennzoil.com/sites/pennzo...ropean5W40.pdf
I very well may end up going with the Syntec (5w-40).
I hear they're both great products.
#45
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Well, not to fan the flames but the overwhelming majority of Porsche engines that experience any mechanical trouble are filled with Mobil 1 0w-40 oil. The oil is one of the common factors in engine failure.
Of course, the overwhelming majority of Porsche engines that do *NOT* experience mechanical trouble also are filled with Mobil 1 0w-40 oil.
My best advice is to run an oil that meets Porsche's approval for oils and has the right viscosity grade(s) for the climate where you live and drive your car.
But the real key is to change the oil more often than the owners manual says. For example my 02 Boxster's owners manual gives 15K miles for oil changes, 30K miles for filter changes. I change both every 5K miles.
Same for my 03 Turbo though the owners manual may give a shorter interval between oil/filter services.
The Boxster has over 234K miles on the original engine. The Turbo over 40K miles.
Roughly I've spent $5000 on oil/filter changes for the Boxster. Most I've done myself for less than $100 in parts/oil. This $5000 represents less than half the cost of a new engine. And an engine that has suffered from infrequent oil changes need not blow up to ruin one's experience with a car.
A noisy, clattering, ticking, engine that uses oil, smokes and possibly fails smog checks (here in CA anyhow) can make one's time with the car pure H*ll.
Sincerely,
Macster.
Of course, the overwhelming majority of Porsche engines that do *NOT* experience mechanical trouble also are filled with Mobil 1 0w-40 oil.
My best advice is to run an oil that meets Porsche's approval for oils and has the right viscosity grade(s) for the climate where you live and drive your car.
But the real key is to change the oil more often than the owners manual says. For example my 02 Boxster's owners manual gives 15K miles for oil changes, 30K miles for filter changes. I change both every 5K miles.
Same for my 03 Turbo though the owners manual may give a shorter interval between oil/filter services.
The Boxster has over 234K miles on the original engine. The Turbo over 40K miles.
Roughly I've spent $5000 on oil/filter changes for the Boxster. Most I've done myself for less than $100 in parts/oil. This $5000 represents less than half the cost of a new engine. And an engine that has suffered from infrequent oil changes need not blow up to ruin one's experience with a car.
A noisy, clattering, ticking, engine that uses oil, smokes and possibly fails smog checks (here in CA anyhow) can make one's time with the car pure H*ll.
Sincerely,
Macster.
I did my first oil change at or about 1,100 miles. From here on I'll change it every 5k or once a year, whichever comes first. My once a year change will be right before winter storage (about 4.5-5 months). I plan on doing it myself.