I've been doodling around with my track alignment and adding LCA shims to get front camber closer to -2.7. Didn't rotate strut tops.

I ended up with ~14mm of shims and a maxed out strut top on the driver's side. Passenger side only needed 7mm with the strut top in the middle. Result: camber of -2.7 on both sides, according to a Hunter WinAlign machine.

Is this assymetry normal? I can't get my head around the thought of having one wheel more "stuck out" than the other...

FWIW, this is the alignment that I run for a very curvy & short track in my area.

Toe (F/R): -4' / +24'
Camber (F/R): 2°42' / 2°12'
Caster (F): 8°12'
Sway Bars (F/R): Full Soft / Full Stiff

Tires are Toyo R888s 19s, OEM sizes

 

I have seen 7 gt3s get an alignment in same shop 2 were 997s so I think its little bit too much of an assymetry the +1cm difference of the two sides to get same result, maybe check with other shop unless you know something about the car you r not telling.

edit: and IMO you should rotate struts and then add a few mm of shimms to get the numbers you want. just shimms or just struts is not good for caster and rubbing.

John

 

So is it fair to assume that shims are meant to be added in pairs?

I'll stay away from rotating strut tops for now. Not interested in losing caster on my otherwise stock suspension.

 

That symmetry is not normal.
We often rotated the tops and then added shims on the racing cars to widen the front track and deaden the caster change for certain tracks, but the cars were more or less "square."
I would be careful about messing around too much there, a lot is happening with the relationship between camber/toe/caster and bump steer, not to mention the track changes and resulting thrust angle. Perhaps one of the more active RS track guys can chime in with suggestions on your setup, but get the thing square again and start over would be my opinion.
You can walk yourself out of whack pretty quickly there, I can mess up a car in short order even with the help of an engineer!
Cole