I'm buying an open trailer for DE's
Would like the shorter 16' bed but think maybe 18' would be better.
Both have dovetail rear.
Also any thoughts on open deck or full deck.
Appreciate the feedback

 

18 IMHO
with a tire rack and a storage box you will be happy that you got an 18... and if you do not plan on adding a tire rack and storage box... you will...

if you get the "drive under" tire rack only and no storage box, you may be able to do the 16

although the back of your car may hang off the back...

I have a 17.5 foot featherlite

 

18" is the way to go. Better displacement and no big difference in weight. The dovetail rear is a big plus but the GT3 is lowww... so you'll probably need "race ramps" to mount the trailer without issue. I chose an open trailer as well. It's lighter, and my truck is spacious enough to keep my gear high and dry. It may depend on your hauler. I have an F-150 4x4 crew with tow package and it pulls great, so if you are in that category a 16 vs 18 won't make a difference.

 

Another big thing is using rachet straps. A longer trailer makes installing them far easier. The cost and weight of a longer or full floor trailer is negligable. The only negative is where you plan to park the trailer at your home when it is not being used. If a smaller trailer will fit indoors in your garage or shed or shop and a larger one will not??? THAT is the ONLY reason to buy a smaller trailer. When towing a 4137 lb. load or a longer trailer and a 4213 lb. load. It is a no brainer. You might have to use your trailer for your mom's Oldsmobile so do not short change your self.

 

I bought a smaller trailer to fit in my garage and that worked out for a couple of years.

 

I'll definitely go for the 18. Great info to consider.

 

rickg,

I'd suggest the full floor; I've had both. The full floor protects the car better, and also gives the flexiblity to move other things other than the car if needed.

I had a Featherlite 3110; 17'5" full deck. Including the tongue about 22' overall. It just did fit in my standard garage and allow the overhead to close. Not sure about "hanging off' the trailer. I didn't use a tire rack, but always centered the 97 C2 S and 93 RSA rear wheels right between the trailer tandem axles. That left some room in front, and with an equalizing hitch it towed dead level and like an arrow.

j

 

I agree with all, 18 foot. I have the 17.5 aluminum featherlite with removable fenders and it pulls amazing behind a 1/2 ton pick up. I would install erail down the each side on the floor so when tieing down you have multiple options. Mac's custom tie downs have a great soft tie that goes thru the wheel. No affiliation with anyone mentioned, just know what works for me. I can give further detailed info or pics if desired.

Good luck

 

I find 16, 18 and 20 all tow and stow the same. If you have a particular place in mind to park it, work backwards from those kind of issues.

Full deck will keep the car tidy. When I towed a track car on an open u-haul in the rain, the underside was as if I had been through the bottom of a muddy pond.

If there's any way to borrow a friend's trailer, just play around with it, try towing it to your house and parking it, etc.

When you finally get the trailer, don't waste time and money on wood planks and half-*** ramps. Get the ramps worked out from day one. And, as already advised, get the tie-downs worked out. These two things alone (loading and tying down) are 80% of the hassle factor in towing.

 

I accept with information: Another big thing is using rachet straps. A longer trailer makes installing them far easier. The cost and weight of a longer or full floor trailer is negligable.
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