Track performance .1 RS vs .2 GT3
#16
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Porsche marketers suck all of us into this every time. Every new model is incrementally better than the prior version and compared side by side the newer one is always better. In the real would though the difference remains incremental. Given equal drivers (rare) the newer car will always be faster on the track; you just need to decide whether the incremental improvements are worth the price difference.
Typically the "RS" models retain value better but that remains to be seen for the future with so many being produced....
Typically the "RS" models retain value better but that remains to be seen for the future with so many being produced....
#17
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I agree. I'm not so concerned with resale value. Really just want to know if the .2 GT3 is going to be a better track performer for me. I'm no pro by any stretch, so both cars are going to be better than I can drive. But do the enhancements with the .2 make it more stable and a touch faster on the track?
As far stability and handling, my RS has a fully upgraded suspension that is ahead of a 997.2.
the reason i mention this is because all my suspension is also a direct bolt on for the 997.2......... therefore the 997.2 suspension bone stock is not all that different from a 997.1 bone stock.
a used 997.1 RS for 100k is great bargin compared to a used 997.2 GT3 for 130k. Performance is almost back to back unless in the hands of a pro.
depreciation on a RS is better deal too.
think of what you could do to a RS with the 30k saved!
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#18
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Hey TCS, you make a damn good case for the .1 RS.
Have you documented your suspension mods on a thread somewhere? Or do you care to elaborate a bit? And ball park $$?
The .1 RS is a fine looking automobile and I would guess that spares and extra wheels could be found for much less than the equivalent for the .2.
If the .1 RS fits the budget, it sounds like it might be the way to go and could be tweaked as needed in time. I agree that it would also be the winner in the depreciation battle.
Have you documented your suspension mods on a thread somewhere? Or do you care to elaborate a bit? And ball park $$?
The .1 RS is a fine looking automobile and I would guess that spares and extra wheels could be found for much less than the equivalent for the .2.
If the .1 RS fits the budget, it sounds like it might be the way to go and could be tweaked as needed in time. I agree that it would also be the winner in the depreciation battle.
#19
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Mk 2 GT3 has more power and torque. Bone stock it handles better - the Mk 1 RS understeers a lot unless you change the rear sway bar for the 997 GT2 version. It also needs rear brake ducts which are standard on the new car. Those mods are not expensive however.
#20
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A friend of mine also said that the .1RS benefitted from rear adjustable drop links or toe links- don't remember which, and that supposedly a lot of RS owners that track do this mod. Any info on that?
#21
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#23
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We recently did an alignment on a 997 GT3, set the rear toe to what we wanted, then tightened the nut for the eccentric bolt. Once tight, we tried to move the toe adjuster with a wrench and it moved, it shouldn't. The car at high speed lateral loads puts more effort than a wrench, so the toe settings get messed up. The fix (for all 1999-2010 GT3, GT2, GT3 RS) rear toe links and locking the eccentric bolt.
#25
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The best thing to do is to get a brand new set of eccentric bolts, washers, nuts, install the Toe links, set the eccentric bolt toward maximum toe-out (pull the LCA inside), and once it gets to that end tighten the nut. Put some paint marks to verify it is not moving anymore, from there adjust toe with just the toe arm.
Tarett.com sells a locking kit that eliminates the eccentric bolt, it is an even better solution.
Same thing can be done to the camber eccentric bolt by using 997 GT3 RS rear LCA (2 pieces) with camber shims.
#26
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Hey TCS, you make a damn good case for the .1 RS.
Have you documented your suspension mods on a thread somewhere? Or do you care to elaborate a bit? And ball park $$?
The .1 RS is a fine looking automobile and I would guess that spares and extra wheels could be found for much less than the equivalent for the .2.
If the .1 RS fits the budget, it sounds like it might be the way to go and could be tweaked as needed in time. I agree that it would also be the winner in the depreciation battle.
Have you documented your suspension mods on a thread somewhere? Or do you care to elaborate a bit? And ball park $$?
The .1 RS is a fine looking automobile and I would guess that spares and extra wheels could be found for much less than the equivalent for the .2.
If the .1 RS fits the budget, it sounds like it might be the way to go and could be tweaked as needed in time. I agree that it would also be the winner in the depreciation battle.
Only thing left to change over to is RSR mounting points/kunckles.
This is my newly aquired second RS thus all these parts are actually going on as we speak. I will try to grab some pictures of the build as it takes alot of skill/time to set up these bits properly.
The beauty of this project is that over the last year i gathered all these suspension bits on the 2nd hand market for half the price of new and some of it not even used!
Even my clubsport roll bar, BBS E88s', CCWs' and seats are all bought used at great discounts. Gotta love Rennlist classifieds!
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Basically on Rennlist, one can find a 997.1 RS for approx 100k, find used track wheels and quality suspension bits for pennies on the dollar and as result have a serious set up 997 for alot less then a bone stock 997.2 GT3.
This is what i did twice.
Alot of people asked why i wouldnt just go buy a new 997.2 GT3 or RS to play with....
Now they know.
The discount of the 997 RS is too hard to ignore for those who wish to play with it at the track and tuning shop.
AND you just cant beat the green or orange color combos when surrounded by "normal" colored cars at track days!
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#27
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Really just want to know if the .2 GT3 is going to be a better track performer for me. I'm no pro by any stretch, so both cars are going to be better than I can drive. But do the enhancements with the .2 make it more stable and a touch faster on the track?
Thinking the MKIRS is the most beautiful car ever build, now amazingly enough it looks a bit plain and dated only when you park it next to MKII. Just IMHO.. The graphics on MKII look idiotic, but they come off.
I'm OK in DE but many seconds off the pace from pro's. I am getting a coach in August at Sebring and I'll post about that once I've done it.
The MKII RS is really faster and easier to drive than my MKI GT3, I think 3-4 seconds at Sebring (2:20's) and at least 2 seconds on the other tracks (1:25's and 1:35's) all things equal.
I can certainly feel a difference and I was 2 seconds faster the first day on track. I think I will end up between 3-4 seconds faster. The car makes down force you can feel, 35HP more and my straight line speed is almost the same.
The MKI RS VS MKI GT3 was maximum a second faster, just 40mm wider track and no weight in the roof for the sunroof in GT3 and tiney bit more downforce.
MKII RS much more downforce, more power, shorter gearing and DEM add up, a MKIRS with Wevo mounts, short ratio, Cup LSD is still 2 seconds slower at Sebring then MKII RS.
Many variables, but this is with pretty equal drivers, many weekends battling MKI GT3, MKIRS and now my MKIIRS.
#28
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You can get a MKIIRS now for MSRP, get a base on and you "only" spend 30K more then MKI and get 3-4 years warranty more. To go towards equal you need to do short gear ratio and engine mounts, about $5K but you still miss 35HP, better suspension and downforce. Real savings come in if you get a babied track ready car.. And the fantastic orange and green are hard to ingnore...
Thinking the MKIRS is the most beautiful car ever build, now amazingly enough it looks a bit plain and dated only when you park it next to MKII. Just IMHO.. The graphics on MKII look idiotic, but they come off.
I'm OK in DE but many seconds off the pace from pro's. I am getting a coach in August at Sebring and I'll post about that once I've done it.
The MKII RS is really faster and easier to drive than my MKI GT3, I think 3-4 seconds at Sebring (2:20's) and at least 2 seconds on the other tracks (1:25's and 1:35's) all things equal.
I can certainly feel a difference and I was 2 seconds faster the first day on track. I think I will end up between 3-4 seconds faster. The car makes down force you can feel, 35HP more and my straight line speed is almost the same.
The MKI RS VS MKI GT3 was maximum a second faster, just 40mm wider track and no weight in the roof for the sunroof in GT3 and tiney bit more downforce.
MKII RS much more downforce, more power, shorter gearing and DEM add up, a MKIRS with Wevo mounts, short ratio, Cup LSD is still 2 seconds slower at Sebring then MKII RS.
Many variables, but this is with pretty equal drivers, many weekends battling MKI GT3, MKIRS and now my MKIIRS.
Thinking the MKIRS is the most beautiful car ever build, now amazingly enough it looks a bit plain and dated only when you park it next to MKII. Just IMHO.. The graphics on MKII look idiotic, but they come off.
I'm OK in DE but many seconds off the pace from pro's. I am getting a coach in August at Sebring and I'll post about that once I've done it.
The MKII RS is really faster and easier to drive than my MKI GT3, I think 3-4 seconds at Sebring (2:20's) and at least 2 seconds on the other tracks (1:25's and 1:35's) all things equal.
I can certainly feel a difference and I was 2 seconds faster the first day on track. I think I will end up between 3-4 seconds faster. The car makes down force you can feel, 35HP more and my straight line speed is almost the same.
The MKI RS VS MKI GT3 was maximum a second faster, just 40mm wider track and no weight in the roof for the sunroof in GT3 and tiney bit more downforce.
MKII RS much more downforce, more power, shorter gearing and DEM add up, a MKIRS with Wevo mounts, short ratio, Cup LSD is still 2 seconds slower at Sebring then MKII RS.
Many variables, but this is with pretty equal drivers, many weekends battling MKI GT3, MKIRS and now my MKIIRS.
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