Coolant System solutions
#16
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Our RS fix by Bill @ Eurotech
tig all joints
As a note: preheating the components to 240 Deg. F. in the oven in prep for wellding, resulted in total loss of bond to the spigot/s and falling out on the floor without pulling!!!!!!!
As a note: preheating the components to 240 Deg. F. in the oven in prep for wellding, resulted in total loss of bond to the spigot/s and falling out on the floor without pulling!!!!!!!
Last edited by RWK; 12-21-2010 at 09:29 AM.
#17
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At 240 degrees the glue failed? without any internal pressure? No wonder these glued fittings are failing everywhere. Engine Oil temperature can reach 250-260 degrees F on a hot track day, so the water and engine blocks are very close to that temperature, I got so lucky.
#19
I just had Porsche replace one of the manifolds where one of the slip joints was leaking. Fortunately, mine was a slow leak, but if the problem is heat cycles, I wonder if we could get another two or three years out of replacing the manifolds. Engine removal is of course required but maybe Porsche would look more kindly on this solution.
#20
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It's not due to absolute hi temps. To me it happened on the street. Heat cycles is a more likely cause.
My local OPC fixed it with threads and glue under warranty.
I can ask.
John
My local OPC fixed it with threads and glue under warranty.
I can ask.
John
Last edited by 911SLOW; 09-26-2010 at 04:22 PM.
#21
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yes total failure of the glue, whuch appears to be green loctite., No pressure involved. Whatever interference fit is designed in nominally, is also lost at this temp! Hose compression seems to be then the only retaining mechanisim!!
The good news is it is very easy to remove the reatining compound, which prevents weld contamination.
Engine must come out yes.
The good news is it is very easy to remove the reatining compound, which prevents weld contamination.
Engine must come out yes.
#22
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Summary so far:
1. At least run water wetter + water instead of coolant as a stop gap measure -- seems the benefits of not potentially crashing yourself and/or others greatly outweigh any boiling point issues mentioned previously.
2. Remove engine and go with welded instead of glued hose fittings, or run Sharkwerks' drilled/tapped solution.
1. At least run water wetter + water instead of coolant as a stop gap measure -- seems the benefits of not potentially crashing yourself and/or others greatly outweigh any boiling point issues mentioned previously.
2. Remove engine and go with welded instead of glued hose fittings, or run Sharkwerks' drilled/tapped solution.
#23
I think the reason why the DP engines and the RSR's do not have this problem is due to the fact that they do not have any press fittings in the water lines. The GT3 Cup does, but we have never had a failure nor have ever heard of a failure like that at the track.
Is it possible that the street car has higher engine temps due to extra items like AC and the fire blanket lining that might make the engine bay temps higher?
This does concern me and I will ask PCNA about this. The guys at SharkWerks seem to be on it and have a solution but I still want to know why the street cars are having failures and the Cup cars are not.
Stand by for a standby, there maybe a may be.
Is it possible that the street car has higher engine temps due to extra items like AC and the fire blanket lining that might make the engine bay temps higher?
This does concern me and I will ask PCNA about this. The guys at SharkWerks seem to be on it and have a solution but I still want to know why the street cars are having failures and the Cup cars are not.
Stand by for a standby, there maybe a may be.
#26
Three Wheelin'
Thanks for you time checking with PCNA. Please let us know what you find out.
The press fitting came out on me on track at 110mph through a sweeper when I found out there was a problem. I was lucky to get her in to the pits without spinning or having anyone else spin.
Thanks
The press fitting came out on me on track at 110mph through a sweeper when I found out there was a problem. I was lucky to get her in to the pits without spinning or having anyone else spin.
Thanks
#29
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They can, but they need your engine. I talked to Alex at Sharkwerks (via email) this week.
Not all of the fittings are in removable manifolds. Some of them are actually in the block according to Alex, thus requiring that they have your engine.