Trailex 8045 set-up ??'s
05-29-2010, 02:31 PM
#1
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Trailex 8045 set-up ??'s
Just took delivery of a new 8045 from Primo Trailer here in Ottawa and I was wondering:
Would anyone have measurements where the front tire stops go to give good balancing with a 997 GT3, and also where the tire rack is best positioned?
I will figure it out, but knowledge based on collective experience is always a better teacher.... Especially in my case
Would anyone have measurements where the front tire stops go to give good balancing with a 997 GT3, and also where the tire rack is best positioned?
I will figure it out, but knowledge based on collective experience is always a better teacher.... Especially in my case
05-29-2010, 02:59 PM
#2
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Peter,
The CT-8045 weighs 980 lbs with the tire rack, toolbox and spare tire.
I have one of these scales ==> http://www.etrailer.com/p-5780.html
Each trailer load is different, some 997 GT3 are lighter than others. If you put wheels/tires on the tire rack, most of the weight becomes tongue weight (one set is around 225 lbs). A full tank of fuel is weight towards the tongue, and another 110 lbs.
Ideally (say the experts) tongue weight should be 10% to 15% of total loaded trailer weight. So your 3,300 lbs stock GT3 + one set of wheels + some tools should be around 4,500 lbs. You want 450 lbs to 675 lbs of tongue weight, buy the scale.
You will need to move the 997 GT3 as forward as possible, because the engine location doesn't help with tongue weight, if you don't have a scale yet.
Trailerramps.com sell the TR-5, they help loading the GT3 on a trailer. I used to remove the spoiler lip to load the 997 GT3, I did not use the unnecessary bolts (2) that attach the stock spoiler lip.
The CT-8045 weighs 980 lbs with the tire rack, toolbox and spare tire.
I have one of these scales ==> http://www.etrailer.com/p-5780.html
Each trailer load is different, some 997 GT3 are lighter than others. If you put wheels/tires on the tire rack, most of the weight becomes tongue weight (one set is around 225 lbs). A full tank of fuel is weight towards the tongue, and another 110 lbs.
Ideally (say the experts) tongue weight should be 10% to 15% of total loaded trailer weight. So your 3,300 lbs stock GT3 + one set of wheels + some tools should be around 4,500 lbs. You want 450 lbs to 675 lbs of tongue weight, buy the scale.
You will need to move the 997 GT3 as forward as possible, because the engine location doesn't help with tongue weight, if you don't have a scale yet.
Trailerramps.com sell the TR-5, they help loading the GT3 on a trailer. I used to remove the spoiler lip to load the 997 GT3, I did not use the unnecessary bolts (2) that attach the stock spoiler lip.
05-29-2010, 03:10 PM
#3
Race Director
Peter,
The CT-8045 weighs 980 lbs with the tire rack, toolbox and spare tire.
I have one of these scales ==> http://www.etrailer.com/p-5780.html
Each trailer load is different, some 997 GT3 are lighter than others. If you put wheels/tires on the tire rack, most of the weight becomes tongue weight (one set is around 225 lbs). A full tank of fuel is weight towards the tongue, and another 110 lbs.
Ideally (say the experts) tongue weight should be 10% to 15% of total loaded trailer weight. So your 3,300 lbs stock GT3 + one set of wheels + some tools should be around 4,500 lbs. You want 450 lbs to 675 lbs of tongue weight, buy the scale.
You will need to move the 997 GT3 as forward as possible, because the engine location doesn't help with tongue weight, if you don't have a scale yet.
Trailerramps.com sell the TR-5, they help loading the GT3 on a trailer. I used to remove the spoiler lip to load the 997 GT3, I did not use the unnecessary bolts (2) that attach the stock spoiler lip.
The CT-8045 weighs 980 lbs with the tire rack, toolbox and spare tire.
I have one of these scales ==> http://www.etrailer.com/p-5780.html
Each trailer load is different, some 997 GT3 are lighter than others. If you put wheels/tires on the tire rack, most of the weight becomes tongue weight (one set is around 225 lbs). A full tank of fuel is weight towards the tongue, and another 110 lbs.
Ideally (say the experts) tongue weight should be 10% to 15% of total loaded trailer weight. So your 3,300 lbs stock GT3 + one set of wheels + some tools should be around 4,500 lbs. You want 450 lbs to 675 lbs of tongue weight, buy the scale.
You will need to move the 997 GT3 as forward as possible, because the engine location doesn't help with tongue weight, if you don't have a scale yet.
Trailerramps.com sell the TR-5, they help loading the GT3 on a trailer. I used to remove the spoiler lip to load the 997 GT3, I did not use the unnecessary bolts (2) that attach the stock spoiler lip.
Tongue weight will depend upon whether or not gas tank is full, and if tire rack is being used.
Peter we have a scale here if needed and if you want to go with Race Ramps we have those too but I suspect you'll be ok with a couple of 2 x 10s about 12" long laid flat to get the nose up if they are even required at all. Jacking up the front of the trailer while loading/unloading aids in reducing the angle of approach.
Here's a pic of Ronan's 997 GT3 RS on an 8045 ...
http://www.primotrailersales.com/ima..._gt3_rs_10.jpg
http://www.primotrailersales.com/ima...enne_rs_10.jpg
05-29-2010, 05:55 PM
#4
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Perfect thanks guys!
I think maybe it's a little light on tongue weight here, but close with this setup:
Once I add a second set of wheels and tires along with a full tank of fuel, it should be spot on!!
Chris, the 2 x 10 pine planks I used at Tremblant to load the ATC trailer work fine with the Trailex, so I'll continue with them.
I think maybe it's a little light on tongue weight here, but close with this setup:
Once I add a second set of wheels and tires along with a full tank of fuel, it should be spot on!!
Chris, the 2 x 10 pine planks I used at Tremblant to load the ATC trailer work fine with the Trailex, so I'll continue with them.
08-22-2010, 01:09 PM
#5
The tongue in the picture looks too heavy. On the 911 (early anyway) the jack lift point under the door is approximately the center of weight. That point should be about 1ft ahead of the center between the two axles. If you load tires on, you should move the car back a few inches.
One mod you should consider is to adjust the tire rack location. I tow with a Cayenne S and used to tow with a BMW 540. Moving the tires forward and down low made a huge difference in fuel economy... I get between 16 and 19 L/100km with the Cayenne configured like this.
Putting the tires on the tongue will also help offset the rear weight bias.
Because my car (BMW) is also front engined and tail light, I moved the axles forward about 6in. It's easy on the trailex. Just loosen a few bolts and the whole tire dolly slides. Everything is adjustable...
Also, when I tow my 930, I drive it on backwards as this helps the weight distribution for my trailer configuration. As I am using race fuel, I also bought some fuel jug racks on the Internet (not shown) and bolted them on.
In my case, I bought some extra extruded aluminum and bolts from Trailex so I can still put the original configuration back in the future. I only had to make a couple of L-brackets for the front of the rack.
Trailex also has the exact specs for setting the axles for a 911. From the manual:
I adjusted mine without disassembling everything. I just loosened the bolts and used the strap ratchets to slide the dolly.
One mod you should consider is to adjust the tire rack location. I tow with a Cayenne S and used to tow with a BMW 540. Moving the tires forward and down low made a huge difference in fuel economy... I get between 16 and 19 L/100km with the Cayenne configured like this.
Putting the tires on the tongue will also help offset the rear weight bias.
Because my car (BMW) is also front engined and tail light, I moved the axles forward about 6in. It's easy on the trailex. Just loosen a few bolts and the whole tire dolly slides. Everything is adjustable...
Also, when I tow my 930, I drive it on backwards as this helps the weight distribution for my trailer configuration. As I am using race fuel, I also bought some fuel jug racks on the Internet (not shown) and bolted them on.
In my case, I bought some extra extruded aluminum and bolts from Trailex so I can still put the original configuration back in the future. I only had to make a couple of L-brackets for the front of the rack.
Trailex also has the exact specs for setting the axles for a 911. From the manual:
The measuremenyt ou want is from the rear of the side-railf orward to the
centero f,thee qualizerT. he equalizeris the trianglep iecel ocatedi n the
center of the two axles. Currently the trailer is 68" from rear of side-rail to
the centero f the equalizery, ou want to set it up to 80" which will be the
next set of holes.
First step: remove the wheels and tires then drop the axles from the springs.
After the axles are complete removed from the trailer, you can then move
the springs and equalizer ahead. Remove the 4 springs I at a time forward to
the next set of holes. reattach exactlv as thev came off. Also move the 2
"quulir.rs
forward to the next set of holes.
Torques pringb oltst ight with a standardw rench,t hey will "lock" on the
aluminum.T he equalizera ndt he shackleb olts andn utsm ust be left loose
enough to allow them to swing when car is loaded, these are lock nuts.
Loosena ll bracketsb, olts,n uts,w ashersth ens lidef endersi n the i'T" slots
to accommodatteh e new axlep osition.
MAKE SURE TO EXAMINE ALL PARTS WFIEN DISASSEMBLING,
ALL WASFIERS (STEEL & PLASTIC) NUTS, BOLTS, ETC MUST BE
PIJT BACK EXACTLY THE WAY THEY CAME OFF!!!
centero f,thee qualizerT. he equalizeris the trianglep iecel ocatedi n the
center of the two axles. Currently the trailer is 68" from rear of side-rail to
the centero f the equalizery, ou want to set it up to 80" which will be the
next set of holes.
First step: remove the wheels and tires then drop the axles from the springs.
After the axles are complete removed from the trailer, you can then move
the springs and equalizer ahead. Remove the 4 springs I at a time forward to
the next set of holes. reattach exactlv as thev came off. Also move the 2
"quulir.rs
forward to the next set of holes.
Torques pringb oltst ight with a standardw rench,t hey will "lock" on the
aluminum.T he equalizera ndt he shackleb olts andn utsm ust be left loose
enough to allow them to swing when car is loaded, these are lock nuts.
Loosena ll bracketsb, olts,n uts,w ashersth ens lidef endersi n the i'T" slots
to accommodatteh e new axlep osition.
MAKE SURE TO EXAMINE ALL PARTS WFIEN DISASSEMBLING,
ALL WASFIERS (STEEL & PLASTIC) NUTS, BOLTS, ETC MUST BE
PIJT BACK EXACTLY THE WAY THEY CAME OFF!!!
Last edited by Peter Carroll/Toronto; 08-22-2010 at 01:29 PM.
