997 GT3 RS mk II - start off in 2nd gear!
#16
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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#17
Instructor
Just checked, my US spec manual does not have that sticker, the Shifting Gears page is on 151 rather than 142.
p.s.
Can you also post a photo of the break in hints for the first 2,000 miles/3,000 kilometers page? Because I've heard the stay below 4,200rpm is only present in the US owner's manuals. It's on the first few pages of the manual. Thanks!
p.s.
Can you also post a photo of the break in hints for the first 2,000 miles/3,000 kilometers page? Because I've heard the stay below 4,200rpm is only present in the US owner's manuals. It's on the first few pages of the manual. Thanks!
#19
Nordschleife Master
Yep,
Looks like a fuel economy thing to me. As long as you get the engine up in revs a little bit and don't try to start in 2nd at 1000rpms it's not going to hurt anything. But ultimately, just drive the car how it feels best to you. Just because Porsche put it in print doesn't mean it's a law.
Looks like a fuel economy thing to me. As long as you get the engine up in revs a little bit and don't try to start in 2nd at 1000rpms it's not going to hurt anything. But ultimately, just drive the car how it feels best to you. Just because Porsche put it in print doesn't mean it's a law.
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
I can take a photo, but basically in the break-in section they talk about wearing in the tires and brakes, and avoiding full throttle and high RPMs with cold oil. Not a word about 4,200 rpm limit at all
#21
The "fuel economy" thing is bunk. Send it to Mythbusters. These things are not jet liners taking off, they're out of 1st (or 2nd) gear in a matter of a few dozen feet at a moderate to practically closed throttle.
2nd gear (in the shorter RS) is more like 1st and I imagine it feels more like working the clutch than causing abrupt "shunting" as the driver fails to match engine, clutch and wheel speed, so the standing start is more difficult (to be smooth) than slipping into 2nd.
I imagine the combination of a lighter flywheel, a shorter diff and a more affluent driver all compound to shred a few clutches, to cause a few cars to be launched out of control and for a few thrust bearings to give up and mangle the whole shebang (so to speak.)
2nd gear (in the shorter RS) is more like 1st and I imagine it feels more like working the clutch than causing abrupt "shunting" as the driver fails to match engine, clutch and wheel speed, so the standing start is more difficult (to be smooth) than slipping into 2nd.
I imagine the combination of a lighter flywheel, a shorter diff and a more affluent driver all compound to shred a few clutches, to cause a few cars to be launched out of control and for a few thrust bearings to give up and mangle the whole shebang (so to speak.)
#22
Racer
Thread Starter
#23
Instructor
Thanks for the information! I wonder why different break-in for the same car.
#24
All the factory guys, engine builders etc recommend the drive it hard method.
Many threads on it here and elsewhere.
Just broke my '10 987 CS in using the std. hard method, ring seating/motoman etc. etc. method.
Runs very strong, no oil burn, feels stronger than the new dealer cars I've driven.
Talked to one PDE instructor who mentioned their cars come off the truck on to the track at 100%.
He has noticed they are noticeably stronger than the std. dealer cars and have zero issues.
fwiw.
#26
Yes, funny isn't it?
Someone hurry and call Porsche and tell them they're violating their own lawyer's advice, er, um, I mean engine break-in clause.........
Oh yes, and if you're in the U.S., be extra special careful with that delicate engine!
lol
Someone hurry and call Porsche and tell them they're violating their own lawyer's advice, er, um, I mean engine break-in clause.........
Oh yes, and if you're in the U.S., be extra special careful with that delicate engine!
lol