Just for the garage collection in the U.S.?

Emissions? Naaaaaaaaa.

 

Not street legal no emission test

u can
only
buy used unless u race

in 09 u could buy new but all sold now

talk to GMG or other bug teams. If u pay enough u can bend the rule.

 

i know someone who has one =P

well, i think you know him too mooty!

 

Call Fabryce or James at GMG, they make cup car dreams happen!

 

who? pm me.

 

CUP just for a collection?

these things are alway preceded by another model year.... might as well track it before it becomes stale

 

Cupcar as a collector's edition. U gotta be kidding. Sell your rs before I throw up : ). Porsche's are meant for driving- nothing else. 73rs- StrekStrekStrekStrek the garage I'm driving the **** out of it- seriously. Mike

 

You can buy a Cup from Porsche Motorsports without racing it.. as long as there any remaining.
The first cars go to racer's then DE guys.

 

Porsche actually will sell them to non racing teams, The price of one is not the issue but the cost of maintaing one is.

 

maybe i wasn't clear.
the cups goes to teams first, who are committed to racing it.
you are welcome to put your name on the list with PMNA.
if there are cars not sold, then they start calling from the list. the list is not first come first serve. more like how many cups have you bought with them. and rightly so. they dont want cups be stored. they like to see it driven. they also ask you how u plan to use it and who will help you run/maintain/support the car. these aren't cars you wrench yourself. i dont care how good you are, it's a full time job. SOMETIMES a team may buy several cars then suddenly budget gone and cannot campaign all the cars they bought, so they may sell the new cars they just bought. thus it's often easier to buy your new cup through an established shop rather than just put your name on the list.

driving a cup 2-3 events a year is not biggie.
try to drive it 15 - 20 weekends a year, then you will realize that the $200k+ cost of the car is peanuts compared to $2200/set or more for slicks that last you 1.5 days.

i really wanted one. but i can't get the numbers to work out suck that i can justify the cost.

 

We have someone who bought a 10 cup, non racing with no previous cup history

 

Mooty,

Dumb question time: I hear ya regarding the running cost.. but that's assuming if one were to run the Cup competitively and want the last ounce of the performance out of it. Why can't one run a Cup as a lightweight street GT3? i.e., you still run your street tires or R-compound tires, you don't rev it to 8,500rpm at every shift, etc. etc.

I understand the sequential box will require $$$ rebuild, but other components should be no less durable compare to a street 3, no? And if anything, consumables will be less due to the less weight. (But of course, you probably offset that by generating more velocity, etc.) But just saying if you are not looking for that last 0.5 seconds per lap, the engine probably doesn't have to be re-build as frequently as the race team, same for the gearbox, etc.

Or I don't understand it correctly?

 

no disrespect, but it's rare to buy current cups without going through a team, bought from vera at PMNA? wow. i am not worthy.
good for him though. 2010 cup is the ****. i can only dream.

 

i have the same question you got, until i raced.

if you dont run slicks (provided you aren't restricted by rules like WC which used to be on toyos), then why bother with cup car.

a street GT3 can be driven on weekends, so you have a lot of use for it. a cup car MUST be trailer (a pain) and can only be driven on track, so you do maybe 2000 miles a year at most. personally if i can only put 2000 miles on a car, i will never buy it. it's too much money sitting aroudn doing nothing. i rather just stare at a pile of benjamins stacked up in the shape of a 911, i t think that would look better to me.

with GT3 street car, i get bogged down in DE traffic, if you are in a cup, you will be using the brakes way more than throttle in DE. if you aren't bogged down by traffic in a cup car during a DE, you are going way too slow in most cases to drive a cup. so you should race a cup. if you race, i would hate to be DFL, so i would like to run the freshest tires i can, and that is a HUGE cost. i have seen ppl with 4 sets of stickers for a 3 day weekend. that's 8000 on rubber. of course you dont have to do that to win, but you definitely need 1 set of slicks, that's 2500/set compared to hoosers at 1500. and do that for 30 days a year.

i am only talking consumable cost, not engine rebuild or tranny cost. rubber cost is bigger!

oh, if you hit something (if you race, you will hit things. if you didnt hit things, you are most likely not in the race, its a matter of when and how often). a CF door from pms is..... you sitting down? $4000+

as far as reving.... you are kidding yourself if you dont rev to redline. if i am at your door into a turn, you are telling me you want to let up and make the upshift so i will blow by you and block you from that turn on? even on street cars, i shift no more than 200rpm below redline. and since street cars are not optimally geared, i often have to hold a gear at redline for a while until i brake for the turn. but that's not as bad as cups with tight gears. bc gears are short, you will be at redline much more often, so engine wears out faster.

and once you are in a cup, sh*t just happens in racing. i have NEVER missed in shift on track from 2002 to 2008 until i started racing. you get nervous, impatient, pissed.... whatever, you start to make mistakes. if you blow a shift and damage the motor..... i know plenty ppl who zing'd $$$ motors.

i.e., you still run your street tires or R-compound tires, you don't rev it to 8,500rpm at every shift, etc. etc.
===> trust me, no one in cup car will drive on r compounds or street tire and not use the entire rev band. it's like once you tasted uni with quail egg, california roll just aint gonna do it anymore. once you touch slicks, why bother with street tires? it's a bad addiction. i used to get excited with RA1, now i dont even smile on fresh hoosiers. i always volunteer to drive my friends' slicks

I understand the sequential box will require $$$ rebuild, but other components should be no less durable compare to a street 3, no?
===> true, but you put more stress due to cornering forces of slicks, see above. also the car sits MUCH lower than street car and the axles get bent out of shape. blue axles i was told are $5000? and you need them often.


But just saying if you are not looking for that last 0.5 seconds per lap, the engine probably doesn't have to be re-build as frequently as the race team, same for the gearbox, etc.
===> dont worry about the engine. 100 hours is fine. budget 10k a year. but you need more than more than 10k on tires per year. and you need to either pay someone to transport your cup or you have to buy a truck and a trailer (together $20k for something really ****ty, or be stupid like me paid 80k for my rigs) and pay for trailer storage. and EVERYTIME you need service on the cup you have to trailer it to/from mechanic or you have to pay storage fee for the cup.

there are many "small" ancillaries. say, cups got air jack, you need to have N2 bottles. you need a car big enough to haul N2 bottles to refill and back to your trailer/garage.

oh, trust me. i looked at it every which way trying to justify it. if you can convince me why i should get a cup, i'll let you drive it for free.

 

cup cars are more expensive to run, end of story. mooty is dead on the money. everything wears faster. that car is basically consuming itself every moment its running. tires, tranny, motor, suspension. you probably wont wear out the interior fabric and finishings<G>, but other than that, its a consumable with components that have relatively short shelf lives.

again agree with mooty, a cup is probably not best placed in DE or crowded track days. but if you're gonna race or have access to a private track for empty lapping days, its probably as much fun as one could ever want.

I built an inexpensive 2004 Boxster S to train, DE, lapping and race. thing is bad **** to the bone. rick deman built it. he's one of the best. that thing is far more functional at 1/4 the operating costs probably. fast and more expensive doesnt always equate to more fun. sometimes more fun. sometimes faster. probably more high maintenance.

boxster S is probably one of the slickest racers you could piece together.
aint a cup, but its a grin maker.