mooty

As these cars are getting ready for track, what are the tires you plan to use and what sizes.

i thought we can put down what we have in mind to share, and also if anyone posted "bad" ratio that would trigger ABS/TC we can all chime in...

my main tires are

Toyo R888 255/35/10 and 335/30/18
Hoosier R6 255/35/10 and 335/30/18

i didn't see anything else in 18" that would fit well. but then again, i only researched for an hour.

TRAKCAR

I was just looking at that:

No R888's. You might as well run Hoosiers, they might even last longer and grippier and cheaper... Tried them once, really did not like them

2010 RS
OEM 245/35ZR19 - Front. = 25.7OD 808 revs/mile
Option 19" Hoosier R6 front:
235/35/19 = 25.5 = 815 revs/mile Too narrow?
265/35/19 = 26.3 = 790 revs/mile These should fit

OEM 325/30ZR19 - Rear. = 26.6OD 781.48 revs/mile
Option 19" Hoosier has this size in R6.

So running stock wheels should work if you are not getting 18" track wheels.

I ordered the BB$ 18":
I hope 18" RA1's are still an option:
245/40/18 = 25.6OD 812 revs/mile
275/35/18 = 25.60D 812 revs/mile Next size up, too wide I think, don't need it.
335/30/18 = 25.9OD 803 revs/mile

18" Hoosiers:
255/40/18 = 25.9OD 803 revs/mile (Still have some laying around)
335/30/18 = 25.9OD 803 revs/mile Should fit.
345/35/18 = 27.0OD 770 revs/mile If they fit might be the best match with 255 in front as factory seems to like less revs in rear then front.

What other options are out there?

Carrera GT

I think 10's on the front won't clear the calipers. : )

I don't imagine there will be an 18 to clear the ceramic's caliper, plus the overall diameter is larger on the 19's. I've gone "down" to 18's in the past on steel rotors and didn't mind the gear, etc. On this car, I don't see the benefit.

I'm expecting to stay with Sport Cups and wear out some spare sets (even though I'll be dropping back to 305 on the rear and going up to 265 on the front in some cases.) The car is not shy of grip and the extra second off a lap time isn't my goal, especially at the cost of tire wear.

It would be great if Toyo came up with an RA1 in a 19.

There's only the Hooters in a 19. I might try those once and see how they go for wear versus apex speeds.

There's also Goodyear DOT R 'slick' that might be available in the right sizes.

There's also the issue of people reporting ABS malfunctions on sticky rubber. I wonder if SC and TC are smart enough to adapt to different tires and tire wear, etc.

BlackRain

Running R6's 235/35/19 & 315/30/19 on my 2010 GT3 and turn the nannies off.

Carrera GT

Absolutely no interest in turning off any of the safeties!

100+ mph apex speeds and the contract walls at Laguna are too close for comfort.

130+ mph into the hairpin at Laguna is not the time to be doing R+D on the ABS ... : )

rmag

First set I'm trying are Hoosier R6 Front 255/35/18 Rear 335/30/18

NJ-GT

Run 18", better tire choices, lighter weight, and race proven. When you see Porsche racing on 19", then jump the ship and start running 19". For street use, stay on 19" or even chromed 20".

TRAKCAR

I would also if I could find some of the old cheap ones laying around....

With the last car I bought 5 sets of used Hoosiers from a team for a couple of hundred bucks, so I've only had one new set of tires so far and still have the 2 front Hoosiers left from that set.

Cheaper to start off with those 2, than I only have to buy 2 rears.

997gt3north

- R6 265/35/19 with 325/30/19 sounds like a perfect place to start until 18" center locks become available

- you "may" have to rotate the front struts and run -2.5 camber with shims to add back caster but I think with the added fender piece it should be perfect and lethal

- that's what I would try (the car will be a monster with that grip)

- IMO, the SC / TC have nothing to do with ABS working "properly" - so running with them on or off isn't going to prevent "icemode"

The dreaded ABS "icemode" situations can be pretty much predicted, anticipated and thus avoided:
- bumpy brake zone
- downhill fading away brake zones (especially if you hit a bump)
- brake zones that unload the rears
- stabbing the pedal too fast without letting the weight transfer forwards (this is the dangerous one as when is fast too fast but don't think tire type has anything to do with it)

Bob Rouleau

18 inch centerlocks are available from BBS (Paul you can get them from Jim H at Kanata/Calabogie). Four of us here have ordered the Forgeline 18 inch wheels as a group buy from a local outfit.

Best,

rmag

Let me get this straight Peter ...you spend $$$$ on an RS, then $$$ on wheels, but now you want to use used Hoosiers! It's where the "rubber meets the pavement"

There is huge difference. Sweet spot is at 2-4 HCs. Ok until 7HC, drivable until 12. 12+ they are trash.

rmag

What lead time did they tell you? I was told up to 12 weeks....so went with BB$ instead.

TRAKCAR

I know, I know.... I don't have money for the RS either BB$ either...
I drive 'em till they cord..

These were 2 used sets, it did not work out... These tires I spun on were 4 secs faster and after this session they were corded..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPf0BJ3D9tQ
Crappy video, only if you are really bored!!

You see when Erik says I cheat because I run Hoosiers VS RA1's, you do have to understand that my Hoosiers are slower than good RA1's....

That's why I prefer RA1's, good till the cords ;-)

rmag

Yep, but 1-2 seconds slower than a Hoho

Carrera GT

In my humble, spending on the car shouldn't blind the owner to the value of a dollar. My "budget" for a year at the track is mostly tires and brakes.

As ever, it's the question "speed costs; how fast do you want to go?" I don't mind any tire so long as it remains reasonably consistent at the limit -- if it's a full second slower (or two) per lap, I just count that offset and if I'm in a time trial, I'll put on decent tires and hopefully have a good expectation of what will result.