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Heel/Toe in RS

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Old 04-07-2010, 12:37 PM
  #31  
Nizer
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Originally Posted by number9ine
I'd be interested in knowing why CRex thinks it's a bad habit.
Avatar photo a clue?
Old 04-07-2010, 02:01 PM
  #32  
CRex
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Originally Posted by Nizer
Avatar photo a clue?
LOL.. I'd argue one thing has got nothing to do with the other
Old 04-07-2010, 04:55 PM
  #33  
axhoaxho
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doing toe and roll instead of heel and toe. With the first you do need to get the brake pedal down and it is easier when you are doing hard braking on the track. If you are really using your heel to blip, you have to rotate your heel which takes a bit more flexiblity. If you can do that, you can heel toe just about anything as long as the two pedals are not far apart.
Good point. I am shoe-size 9 with standard width. For folks with not too big shoe-size like me, rotating the right foot (I rotate almost 45 degree with my heel to the throttle) and using the heel to 'stomp' the throttle works for me in my GT3 and most Porsche cars.

Using the toe-and-roll method doesn't quite work with my right foot, since the GT3 pedals are relatively wide apart.

Just to share my experience.

Regards,
Old 04-07-2010, 05:10 PM
  #34  
stout
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Originally Posted by ZBB0730
I learned to heel/toe on my mother-n-law's Yaris in France several years ago. Since, I can heel/toe just about everything and do so in everything I drive that has a stick. Never had an issue with the RS.
I feel similarly. (I learned in a 64 VW bus and then a 914 — talk about different pedal heights! )

I've got a size 10.5/11 foot (U.S.) and am pretty sure I use the "roll" method (my heel never moves much, other than as a pivot) — but I probably adapt my style a bit as needed. Haven't had problems rev-matching shifts in much if anything, and do so at all times in anything I'm driving with a stick. Am usually very subtle about it around town, but still do it.

So I figured complaints about the GT3 on RL about rev-matching downshifts (esp. in with PCCB) had to be down to shoe size, ankle flexibility and dexterity, and muscle memory adaptation to deal with varied control input needs. Then I saw input from a journalist/driver respected by a lot of Porschephiles, myself included, who also finds it a bit difficult. Could the pedals be better for more people, more of the time? Maybe. Do they bother me (and a lot of other drivers here)? No. And for those who are bugged, it looks like the aftermarket has it covered...

pete

Last edited by stout; 04-07-2010 at 05:33 PM.
Old 04-12-2010, 12:17 AM
  #35  
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I found it very hard to do in my new car today.

Maybe because all is new and I could not get the brakes up to temp without a divorce the brake pedal stayed very high.

Different, narrower, slipperier pedals, different seating position... I might have to add a bit to the throttle pedal, I have narrow feet and it seems these pedals are spaced further apart then in my last car that came with aftermarket grippier pedals..
Old 04-12-2010, 02:56 AM
  #36  
Carrera GT
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Originally Posted by Veloce Raptor
<snip>
I still can't read your posts ... you have to change your avatar ... did you say something?

Originally Posted by excmag
<snip>
I'm sure you know that Porsche now "teaches" (in the PSDS) a simplified down-shift that uses the synchro to engage the gear, then a blip from the driver to match the engine rpm. In the GT3 and GT3 RS, the "dynamic engine drag" thingy will then help out and electronically match engine rpm to front wheel road speed if it detects rear wheel mismatch under brakes and clutch-engagement.

I just spent a day at Laguna having it nag over my shoulder that my down-shifts into turn 2 were junk. : )
Old 04-12-2010, 09:40 AM
  #37  
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do folks realize the term Heel toe is to describe a method of down shifting not an exact description of the the action of doing so....

So tired of hearing " my foot to big , i cant rotate my foot like that.." it is very funny ... just rool the foot ... hell I was doing it yesterday in flip flops ... WTF... lol

i will go back to the fact it can be difficult when you are on the street... but it become a touch thing
Old 04-12-2010, 10:24 AM
  #38  
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I'm sure you know that Porsche now "teaches" (in the PSDS) a simplified down-shift that uses the synchro to engage the gear, then a blip from the driver to match the engine rpm. In the GT3 and GT3 RS, the "dynamic engine drag" thingy will then help out and electronically match engine rpm to front wheel road speed if it detects rear wheel mismatch under brakes and clutch-engagement.
Huh? You lost me...Can you explain it to a dummy?
Old 04-12-2010, 12:22 PM
  #39  
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I have a 2010 RS with the steel brakes. Certainly much higher than my previous GT3 with steel brakes. I can HT with it but only when thresh hold braking. The pedal is almost like a manual pedal versus a power assist. When you get used to it is actually feels quite nice. Very linear in braking power vs effort. As the pads wear a bit it should get even easier.
Old 04-12-2010, 12:27 PM
  #40  
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I might be OK while tresh hold braking, I used to practice on the street, seems difficult now..
Old 04-12-2010, 08:10 PM
  #41  
ADias
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Originally Posted by Carrera GT
... I'm sure you know that Porsche now "teaches" (in the PSDS) a simplified down-shift that uses the synchro to engage the gear, then a blip from the driver to match the engine rpm. ....
This makes a lot of sense to me. If I understand it correctly this is the sequence:

1 - Brake and while braking shift the gear (with clutch down).
2 - Blip throttle, release the clutch, accelerate, in a smooth fast sequence.
Old 04-12-2010, 08:31 PM
  #42  
Carrera GT
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Originally Posted by ADias
This makes a lot of sense to me. If I understand it correctly this is the sequence:

1 - Brake and while braking shift the gear (with clutch down).
2 - Blip throttle, release the clutch, accelerate, in a smooth fast sequence.
That's about the gist of it.

It's a quicker downshift and the gearboxes are more than strong enough to do all the work these days. It's surprisingly difficult to change old habit, though!

One advantage is that you can "feel" the syncro engagement and get an early warning of a mis-shift (eg. getting 2nd instead of 4th) just by the resistance of the syncro's ... conversely a full double-de-clutch will mean the gears will engage almost without resistance and will potentially disguise a mis-shift.
Old 04-12-2010, 08:49 PM
  #43  
Larry Cable
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here is an example of "classic" heel/toe:

http://www.youtube.com/watch#!v=IuoZeuSgEj4&

note how the heel is lifted from the floor, the foot is rotated anti-clockwise,
and the heel stabs the accelerator to match revs as the clutch is released

in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch#!v=H3ULS7pnxyg

you see the "roll" technique where the ball of the foot/big toe is braking and the foot is "rolled" blipping the accelerator ...

I have never been able to master the 1st variant since it requires considerable skill to maintain a constant pressure on the brake pedal while lifting and rotating your foot ... if you dont maintain constant pressure then the resulting
change will likely cause a couple of weight transfers which aren't good
Old 04-12-2010, 08:49 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I might be OK while tresh hold braking, I used to practice on the street, seems difficult now..
on my gt3, its a bit more difficult than on my cup and my boxster racer.
i think some of it is the material the sound deading, the flooring material, the matts. they seem to cause my heel to not get down as far.
i think the brake and gas pedals are sufficently close. you could conceivably put some 3/8ths inch thick piece of something there so your heel makes contact a bit earlier. i dont think things like rennlines pedal exnteions will do anything since its a depth issue, and at full threshold braking, youi'll get close. but that heel is pretty deep away from the brake.
try putting something there with double stick take. you dont really rest on that at all and atleast when I push teh gas pedal, i sort of push it near the top with my toes and not the full foot. so im not resting onthat riser piece.

rennline makes a riser extension piece but u have to drill the pedal, and then the entire thing is raised up, and you can then rise up the rear even more. that might be too much. for me, getting the heel area up and in contact with my shoe sooner did the trick. plus, i think once the brakes bed a bit, and wear, she'll be golden.

kind of funny practicing downshipping on the open roads, whomping off a highway and blipping behind a soccer mom in a minivan...cardiac arrest!
Old 04-12-2010, 10:07 PM
  #45  
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kind of funny practicing downshipping on the open roads, whomping off a highway and blipping behind a soccer mom in a minivan...cardiac arrest!
Hopefully I won't have to modify pedals, but my last Gt3 came with Rennline or something pedals and they did make it easier.
I thought I was pretty good rolling my foor "deeper" to the right to blip the throttle pretty precisely, but I can't even reach the throttle in the RS.
I tried again on the way home, the pedal is just too high/too far to the right, if I go to the right far enough I slip of the brake pedal

I will find out on track with a bit grippier shoe's, a bit deeper and further back from the pedals and at treshhold breaking to see if it gets better..


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