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The connector is on the passenger side of the engine compartment. There is only one connector to unplug. Squeeze the small metal spring loaded bar and pull down. Easy as that. Hope the pictures help.
Born2Run, many thanks for these really helpful pictures. I did mine today
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I was looking at the plug and trying to get it apart without breaking it. Exactly how does it come apart. Do you have to squeeze it with pliers, or will fingers do it? Front to back, or on the sides? Do you need to pry on the steel spring? Thanks!
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I was looking at the plug and trying to get it apart without breaking it. Exactly how does it come apart. Do you have to squeeze it with pliers, or will fingers do it? Front to back, or on the sides? Do you need to pry on the steel spring? Thanks!
As you're looking at the plug you squeeze the plug (spring loaded metal clip) side to side. I wouldn't recommend any tools. You might find it helpful if you can use your free hand to stabilized the entire plug assembly. Once you do it once it'll take 3 seconds thereafter each time.
When I unplugged the electrical connection, my butt dyno felt a loss in low end torque/power. I'm no expert on exhausts and backpressure etc. Anyone else feel this?
Sorry to revive an old thread. I am looking for info on these bypass valves as they are installed by the factory ... not after market. Can someone direct me to more info on which cars have bypass valves installed? Are they only ones with the PSE option or are they also on non-PSE cars (I believe the PSE option includes a button to open/close the valves, is that correct?/
Great thread. I might need to go unplug my car ...
However I swear I read in another thread someone mentioning that the valves close at low revs no matter what to improve the torque curve; much like the valve in the variable intake manifold. Any input about that?
Did anyone dyno before/after? Would be curious to see the results.
If you unplug the valve (simple 30 second job), the valves remain open all the time. The sport button will no longer control the valves. If you want valve control independent of the sport button with the ability to run full open or full closed at the touch of a button at any time, get the carnewal exhaust valve remote control setup. Easy plug and play
If you unplug the valve (simple 30 second job), the valves remain open all the time. The sport button will no longer control the valves. If you want valve control independent of the sport button with the ability to run full open or full closed at the touch of a button at any time, get the carnewal exhaust valve remote control setup. Easy plug and play
^this^
Use my carnewal swith (and Sharkwere bypass) Everytime I'm in the car.
The original poster may have a broken valve. I have the sharkwerks bypass on my car and when one of the valves failed the car sounded like crap, with or without the valves actuated with the sport button.
Unplugging the electrical connection made no difference either.
You can pull the valves off and test them with a venturi vacuum. I replaced the frozen valve and have had no problems since.
The vacuum actuator (exhaust flap) part number is : 997 111 901 90 and available at worldimpex.com
Last edited by andrewgt3; 09-26-2014 at 10:15 AM.
Reason: added image.
I recently had the valves fixed and the car sounded great. Now I find it doesn't sound as good and I'm starting to wonder if one of the valves has gone bad again. Is there any way to test without removing them from the car?
I was also advised by Porsche Canada that they attributed the RMS leak to a bypass exhaust previously installed on the car. After some fighting with them I was able to get it fixed. They argued that the aftermarket system prevented sufficient back-pressure so the seal was loose or some BS...
Now running stock exhaust and RMS is back after only 3000km so joke's on them. Now back to fighting with them to get it fixed.
04-02-2010, 09:56 AM
