TeamDrugMoney

Hello fellow GT3'ers!

So I brought the 3 into the shop for suspension settings, but due to outside wear I understand the settings are not enough.

Soooooooooo........

Help me out with how to set the car up with proper camber, toe, ....... from your past experience. I posted a thread on this in the racing forum several weeks ago, but thought I would try also posting here.

I do not really have a home track, but run at the Glen and NJMP (Thunderbolt) quite a bit. The GT3 will pretty much just be used on the track, so no worry about street performance to get in the way of proper track orientation. I cannot think of what else to tell you for background. The camber was set to -2 25' and I have found the tires to wear abnormally on the outside edge. I am guessing I need to start to use that pyrometer I just bought a little more.

Any advice would be appreciated.

NJ-GT

This worked with my 07 RS very well:

Front: -3.0 camber, 2mm total toe-out, rotated strut tops, maxed out camber at the strut tops, evenly matching camber with shims.

Rear: -2.5 camber, 4mm total toe-in (gets around 0.25 degrees toe-in per side, 0.50 degrees total)

My car was driven mostly on streets, with some autoX and track use.

TRAKCAR

This is what I use now.

I had more camber before, but I was wearing the inside rear tires too much.

The car is pretty low, looking for less oversteer I have the front sway bar almost all hard and rear full soft. It depends a lot on your driving style and tires though...

I found that what works for others, does not always work for me.

Larry Cable

What does the owners manual spec for the "track" settings?

Bob Rouleau

I like the following:

Front -2.5 degrees Camber (rotate the struts and then add shims in the lower A arm)

Front Toe (In) 2 mins per side

Rear Camber - 2.2 degrees
Rear Toe 14 minutes per side.

I had more camber last season but wore out the inside edges of the tires prematurely. Even wear with this set up.

box01s

Don't know whether your running factory MPSC tires or not, but see track settings per Michelin Pilot Sport Cup specifications attached (from Michelin's Care & Feeding brochure).

Also, whenever you have your car on the lift, check all suspension bolts for proper tightness (torque). Looking at some of your Euro Delivery photos, when your car was on the lift at Manthey, it looks like one of the suspension bolts was loose. Did they change any settings? Pic attached.

Good luck with dialing that car in...

MJones

Interesting...MY10 settings are the same for highway & track so says the Manual.

Larry Cable

that is interesting especially since the .1 cars had separate road/track
specs ...

I guess the new suspension setup doesn't benefit from additional camber/toe

at least in the mind of the factory!

Which raises the question of shoulder wear???

got2go

GMG set my 2010 up at European spec and also recommended same camber front and rear. From memory: dropped the car 7 - 9 mm front/rear; -2 degrees camber front and rear, 0 toe front, 8' static toe in rear (a little less toe in than spec at my request). I also installed their rear dog bones and adjustable toe links.

My first track event with the car is a week away, so I can't comment on the actual results yet. I did drive the car back to Kansas from LA with the set up and it handles crisply without being twitchy on the road.

got2go

Here is a photo to give you the visual at euro spec ride height

Larry Cable

sweet at any height!

JEllis

Are you going to Fontana?

MJones

For MY07-08 GT3 & RS factory Wheel alignment values were the same for RoW/USA.
I believe that to hold true for MY10

I think that "European Spec" is a term coined up for the gullible americans by shops selling us something "special".

JEllis

The alignment specs might be the same but the ride height for ROW and USA are different. When GMG advertises set at ROW ride height or Euro Specs there is a difference in ride height but you are probably correct about the actual alignment.

Jason

got2go

Nope, Heartland Park in Topeka, KS