OllieGT3

Dear Friends,
We just tried earlier this morning to remove the cage of my friend ROOOOGs 997.2 GT3.
We started very motivated and faced the first issues while removing the 4 lateral screws which hold in place the carbon bucket seat.

The right way to go is to get the proper tool (it’s like an inverse torks) and remove the rails from the chassis and take out the whole seat.
We didn’t have those tools so ROOOOG worked around the screws towards the center console and managed to unbolt them. The crazy effort to put them back in was even more painful – almost no space!
Long story short, we unscrewed the chassis nuts, and the long screws which hold together the cage on the upper side.
Once all screws and bolts where removed we realized that the cage part bolted to the frame in the back of the car is bolted to the engine mounts and/or to the struts of the shock absorbers, additionally the cable going to the dynamic engine mounts was passing right through a hole with no means of clearance.
We started to bolt everything back in place and after 2h works ROOOG took off, with cage and passenger seat properly mounted.
I don't know about other GT3's cage removal processes, but in this case it was just a "short" but hard learned lesson.

Stay safe during this corona times, you can always clay your cars and prepare them for a shiny tour once we are allowed to hit the roads again… hopefully soon!

Cheers

OllieGT3

bmwtye

Odd you had this much trouble. When I sold my car I had my clubsport out in 20 minutes and no issues at all, was very straight forward.

OllieGT3

Thank you very much for your reply BMWTYE ! what did you do with the cables running trough the cage and into the engine mounts? where you afraid to remove those bolts? we didnt manage eiher to remove the metal tubes (sleeves) once removed the 4 bolts...
We have been working on a 997.2... was yours a 997.1 ? as we are here i allow myself to ask you if you removed the seats with the rails removing the 4 t typo of inversed torks ?
thanks again !

bmwtye

Yes i complete removed the seats and rails, its very easy to do, just get a E12 Torx socket.





As for your other questions, can you post some pictures so i am clear on which part you are asking about.

OllieGT3

Dear BMWTYE, thank you very much for your replay (once again). Yes, this is what my take was on the rails.. remove them completely and get out seat+ rails.. its a 5 min job. you just have to remove the plastic protection caps.
Where we faced a harder time was with the cables entering the engine mounts... i don't know how to remove them and i we actually should...
how did you moved out of place the metal sleeves in the upper part of the cage? we unbolted all screws but the meta tubes (sleeves) where not moveing..

bmwtye

Are you talking about cabling for dynamic engine mounts, or cabling going into the rear shock (PASM cabling) that passes through where the roll bar attaches to the rear shock mounts.

This picture here is the PASM cabling



As for the metal sleeves that connect the back portion to the main hoop, to separate that you need to make sure all bolts are removed to all parts of the roll bar, including the floor mounts. You can then rock the two sections back and forth to separate one from the other. You dont need to pull the whole sleeve off.

OllieGT3

Hello again, somehow my post from yesterday wasnt' published... how did your remove the PASM cabling ? its just that screw ? we are worried about how to do this w/o damageing anything...
the tools should arrive tomorrow and if the weather is good we will start again with this project.
Stay healty and thanks once again.
will post pictures soon !

bmwtye

No you dont need to remove any screws for the PASM cabling. Follow the cabling and you will see there is a plug that you can "unplug" toward where the ECU is under that rear shelf. Then just pull the cable through the bottom of the roll bar attachment point. Once the roll bar is out, you just plug the cable back in.

OllieGT3

Excellent ! i tought we had to unscrew the whole cabling....