MJones

FOLLOW-UP SEE POST #18
RF axle outside only
Thick at the top
Thin at the bottom
24,000 mi

BAD caliper???

chardonet

What is the mileage? At 6.5k, mine looked good. I'm now at 7k.

MJones

24,000 mi

BobbyC

from what i can tell the pad thickness appears about the same as the backing plate, i.e., the pad is well worn. I usually change mine @ ~ 50% or 5mm pad thickness, yours appear to be about 3mm. Thicker at the top versus the bottom may just be the shape of the pad wear design.

Perhaps one of the Pagid experts can chime in.

roberga

Porsche will say the caliper is fine and it is "normal" for a tracked car. Just sayin...... so do not flame the messenger.

Dave 86 930 Fl

I had a similar problem on my 930, turns out that the caliper pistons were oriented 180 degrees off. Just a thought for you GT3 guys.

Regards, dave

Land Jet

I'm no expert, but logic would say that one of the pistons is not working. Get a professional to look at it. I upgraded to the same calipers and don't have this happening to my pads.

NoSubEDU

Leading edge always wears faster. May be exaggerated due to track usage.

997gt3north

- gone through 5 sets of pads or so (maybe 6)
- i always have had some sort of wedge pattern (thick one side thinner another)
- thought it was strange when i first saw it
- visual inspection of the entire pad thickness is thus critical as one part may look thick but another section may indeed be thin

mooty

ALL my porsche pads, for pccb or for iron, wear that way.
on steel rotors, i flip the pads from left side to right side of the caliper (same wheel), re-bed and even out wear.

i dont do that with pccb pads, haven't had chance to do that.

OCBen

Yup. Not strange at all.

And the reason for this is that the leading edge of the pad gets pulled in ever so slightly while the trailing edge lifts up ever so slightly, due to normal play between components and flexure of materials.

To see how this works, imagine a rubber conveyor belt in front of you going from right to left. Now imagine gripping a wooden block in your right hand above the surface of the belt with the bottom face of the block parallel to the surface. Now imagine lowering the block gently onto the belt so that it just touches the surface of the moving belt. What would your right hand feel? If your imagination is working right, you would feel a clockwise twisting motion on your right hand as the leading edge of the block gets pitched down while the trailing edge gets lifted up. If you press down too hard, the block will twist away from your grip in a clockwise motion.

On the rears, expect to see the opposite pattern.

TrackDays247.com

Normal, in my opinion from others I've seen. I'd still get the dealer's opinion based upon your assertive questioning.
Light a fire under their butts to make them take action to see if it IS normal, or you'll end up with what Gordon above implies - inaction. Your call.

24k means you take it to the track for sure, right?
Get those pads changed ASAP and do not track the car with your pads that low.

*Always be aware that the REARS will wear out 2X -- that's right, 2X -- the rate of the fronts**

If you need P50 Motorsports track pads, shoot me a note.

OCBen

That's a great idea.

It's like rotating tires to even out wear.

I'm adding this to my maintenance check list:

TRAKCAR

+1

Do it right before you go the track because the squell like crazy after flipping them and driving on the street..

str8ner

MJohns,

I had the exact same issue on one of my pads. One of the pistons stayed locked and excessively wore down one side of the pad. I just pushed it back and since then never had an issue again. To my knowledge this is excessive especially that it happened on the RF only! Some wedge wear is ok but it should be almost even on all the pads. Make sure the piston comes back and watch your pad wear carefully. FWIW! This is just my experience. I am no expert!

Stephan.