Freak997tt

So what is ur 100-200 and 0-300kmh??

TB993tt

100-200kph starting in 3rd is about 6s



0-300kph I haven't managed to do properly and it depends on where it is done, the surface plays a massive role. On a smooth flat surface I would reckon on ~26s maybe slightly under. At Bruntingthorpe where it is uphill and very rough I would guess at ~28s - should be able to test that at some point......

Just thought I would add some notes for the benefit of those interested.

This is NOT a drag car, RS Tuning build engines for race Porsche turbos so they know intimately the limits, for road cars they use the race engine experience and work to certain criteria:

Smoothness in torque delivery...... this sounds almost a contradiction when you want a fast accelerating car but it is a massive factor in how well a car puts its power to the road. Poorly tuned tts can have the big torque but the manner in which it is delivered is not conducive to getting around a race track fast. For sure the car will feel fast as the torque rush will nail you a nice 0.9G slug briefly and that may be all most thrill seekers want but it is no good for a race car.
All tuners talk the talk about smoothness and fine tuning but ask yourself how fine tuning is possible without an engine dyno, it isn't......

Sustaining the power......... this is down to the fine tuning, matching components and tuning to the intercooling capability. Again for street racing, not totally necessary since a 60-130mph squirt or 1/4mile, 1 mile drag may be all the car does but for a race engine the torque must be able to be delivered lap after lap without fading - a Schmirler trademark.

Longevity, goes without saying but these engines are tuned to last with longevity similar to stock.

Mike/A.W.E.

lol.

francisb

great read thanks for the effort of posting it

sharkster

No kidding when Toby gets into it... he goes deep, deep, deep undercover!

TB993tt

Francis, thanks for your comment and yours Sharkey - I think

Some more stuff which I learnt:

Readers of this thread will see that I was running a configuration of 200 cell Cargraphic cats, CG headers and a "piggy back" ECU tune. The car was very fast with this "tune" it did 0-300kph in 26,4s - that is fast.

RS tested the engine with this configuration on the engine dyno and when they controlled the boosted IAT (via the water cooled intercooler) they measured an impressive 615hp and 782NM.

The problem with this "tune" is that it worked the VTGs too hard, it basically held the vanes "open" too long...... what is "too long" ? Well Porsche have their limits, RS Tuning know what their limits are through testing to destruction - the electronic guys who made this piggy back ECU just ramped them open regardless of temperatures.

The interesting thing is the engine in this configuration "only" made 1.3bar maximum (which is less than standard) because basically the VTGs were flowing so hard that they couldn't flow anymore air into the engine and the back pressure (boost) was maxed out at 1.3bar for the 615hp produced.

Now on the face of it why not just run with this set up ? It performed great, not mega smooth but perfectly acceptable..... With my intercoolers the IATs were OK (76DegC) for a couple of back to back runs to 300kph before the ECU would protect itself so for most daily driver "fun" use this seemed a great combo....

Well maybe I should have gone with that setup because there is no doubt that is was awesome value and was definately fast..... but, well I am a sucker for the "real thing", whilst I don't race on tracks or even do 300kph runs back to back day after day I just like to have the best available.

So my engine went back on the engine dyno for "bolt on" tuning, Schmirler style:
The engine was fitted with the big carbon air pipes and RS’s 100 cell cats which are also made by HJS but are of a "racing" quality and cost 3 times as much as the 200 cell HJS version.

The engine was tested on the engine dyno using the two bigger sized VTGs which they have. Now here is the interesting bit……. The reason they try both sizes is because each engine can have a different compression ratio from the factory and engines which come in at the higher end of the CR tolerance (like mine did) can work better with the larger VTG since the engine can be tuned to “spin up” the larger wheel at lower revs compared to a lower CR engine which may work better with the smaller VTG compressor wheel – of course we are starting with the RS philosophy of total power curve here not the drag racers “sod the low end I want maximum power regardless of how the bottom end is !”

The engine spent a full two days on the engine dyno being fine tuned for its new configuration with thousands of points being changed in the mapping at all loads - It was done how Bosch designed it to be done, on a static loading controlled engine dyno (not possible on a rolling road I'm afraid Mike not even with your little fans blowing through the intercoolers) BUT and a big BUT is that these engines are so well protected now that (as evidenced by my “piggy back special tune”) it is possible for most “tuners” to get them to run faster and give their customers what they want which is a great thing but it is not Porsche hp – but in reality for most peoples use who cares ?

I have made a graph from the full load engine dyno data of the boost curve for my engine: Note the lower boost early on in the rev range to limit the torque as requested - the standard gauge definately only reads to 1.4bar

eclou

Toby I gather you have spent a small fortune at this point!

TB993tt

To be fair, the hardware is not too much more than similar as sold by others - the turbos are 2K Euro each exchange which involves modding the stock GT2 units with bigger housings and wheels and the balancing up etc....

The intercoolers cost a lot ~10K Euro but....I'm sure you have read the thread

As you are (doubtlessly) guessing its the dyno time which is the mega bucks - but for a car of this value I think it is the correct approach.....

Obviously I am somewhat surprised that they only managed to match the peak hp which AWE claim to get from stock 997tt VTGs...... but then what do I know

francisb

why can't someone just knock up some secan replicas? how hard can it be? and tb993 if you ever drive past me with those wheels you might just find yourself rolling along on your brake disks if you slow down enough.

sharkster

Seriously keep it up (if the wallet allows)... This is great info and not something one sees everyday that's for sure:P

TB993tt

Umm.... If you can be bothered reading the threads this is what I did, but the replicas are still ~10K Euros, Real Secans are 16K Euros and delivery is ~6 months....

They are pretty aren't they ?
The laquer on the Carbon is beginning to flake a bit on the fronts, probably a combination of stone chips and heat.....
I asked Dymag about TUV certification since I was berated by Manthey's sales guy about how the Dymags were unsafe and they couldn't get TUV approval - turns out that Dymag have been trying to get TUV approval but the reason they have been unsuccessful is that there is no written TUV standard for carbon rims and the TUV people refuse to write one !! It stinks of protectionism - they don't want zee bloody Englander veeels taking sales away from BBS

sharkster

Hmmm well I know that HRE TUV'd all of their wheels recently (I think it was last year?) and perhaps now that they've partnered with Dymag to do their CF series of wheels they can get TUV'd also?

TB993tt

Hope so..... It is the CF rim which is freaking them out - there is no standard written for CF wheels !!

sharkster

Having investigated things a bit I have to say it's also a money thing Being TUV'd aint cheap

francisb

i did read the thread but I wasn't at all clear.... your replicas contain a serious chunk of development cost cos welding just aint that hard! i'd be tempted to get a few more made up to sell on and eek back my costs...