European fuel tank
02-03-2011, 10:03 PM
#63
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Alrighty folks.......
if you plan on doing the 90L conversion, the CUP tank will work, but the stock street car sending unit etc will not work.
After trying twice to configure the computer to understand the larger tank, i have called it quits.
The car will require the guts from a euro car for the computer to understand the additional fuel capacity.
These parts can be purchased just as the street car Euro tank, however it all comes down to cost.
If you can buy a CUP car 90L tank for cheap, you are off to a good start but you will still need the rest of the parts to make it happen.
Since my RS with the 90L tank is now going up for sale, i decided to return the stock 60L tank for the next owner. I could not justify the additional expense for a resale for the sake of maintaining a 90L tank.
My 90L tank is now offered for sale.
$250.00 plus shipping from vancouver canada.
if you plan on doing the 90L conversion, the CUP tank will work, but the stock street car sending unit etc will not work.
After trying twice to configure the computer to understand the larger tank, i have called it quits.
The car will require the guts from a euro car for the computer to understand the additional fuel capacity.
These parts can be purchased just as the street car Euro tank, however it all comes down to cost.
If you can buy a CUP car 90L tank for cheap, you are off to a good start but you will still need the rest of the parts to make it happen.
Since my RS with the 90L tank is now going up for sale, i decided to return the stock 60L tank for the next owner. I could not justify the additional expense for a resale for the sake of maintaining a 90L tank.
My 90L tank is now offered for sale.
$250.00 plus shipping from vancouver canada.
02-03-2011, 10:06 PM
#64
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did some work on this
major unknown
- part number 997gt3.mk1 90L tank is 997.201.021.90
- part number 997gt3cup 90L tank is 997.201.013.90
- are they the same are they different (how different)
if you source the street 997gt3.mk1 90L tank from europe ($2000) just for the tank (this is beyond crazy)
you will need to get tank
- tank guage (shows fuel level) - this is a common part with the 997.1 997.2 C2 and C2S (approx $240) (997.620.833.00)
- fuel pump - common part with 997.2 and 987.2 (approx $500) (997.620.833.00)
you also need different filler neck (997.201.043.10) ours is (997.201.043.11)
and vent line (997.201.711.90) ours is (997.201.711.00)
there are a few small things as well
summary, there is no way financially to justify this buying all the parts
now, if the 997 cup car tank with everything attached to it can be gimmied to fit and throw no evap codes then $400 + a few hours of labour may work for some
i personally would order a car with a 90L tank but no way it makes sense to retro fit one
- you will also need an additional flange, union nut and sealing ring
major unknown
- part number 997gt3.mk1 90L tank is 997.201.021.90
- part number 997gt3cup 90L tank is 997.201.013.90
- are they the same are they different (how different)
if you source the street 997gt3.mk1 90L tank from europe ($2000) just for the tank (this is beyond crazy)
you will need to get tank
- tank guage (shows fuel level) - this is a common part with the 997.1 997.2 C2 and C2S (approx $240) (997.620.833.00)
- fuel pump - common part with 997.2 and 987.2 (approx $500) (997.620.833.00)
you also need different filler neck (997.201.043.10) ours is (997.201.043.11)
and vent line (997.201.711.90) ours is (997.201.711.00)
there are a few small things as well
summary, there is no way financially to justify this buying all the parts
now, if the 997 cup car tank with everything attached to it can be gimmied to fit and throw no evap codes then $400 + a few hours of labour may work for some
i personally would order a car with a 90L tank but no way it makes sense to retro fit one
- you will also need an additional flange, union nut and sealing ring
+1
02-04-2011, 10:39 AM
#65
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tcsracing
When I purchased my 90L tank I received the sending unit and all the hoses. I made two efforts to recalibrate the fuel gauge. The first attempt was about 90% correct, the second effort got it to where it is functional. My only complaint is until the first third of a tank is consumed the gauge reads full. After that it operates normally.
02-04-2011, 11:04 AM
#66
Rennlist Member
So how does your fuel gauge behave with the 90L tank but nothing else?
Does it stuck at full for the first 30L and then the gauge start to function? Or?
Just curious..
Does it stuck at full for the first 30L and then the gauge start to function? Or?
Just curious..
Alrighty folks.......
if you plan on doing the 90L conversion, the CUP tank will work, but the stock street car sending unit etc will not work.
After trying twice to configure the computer to understand the larger tank, i have called it quits.
The car will require the guts from a euro car for the computer to understand the additional fuel capacity.
These parts can be purchased just as the street car Euro tank, however it all comes down to cost.
If you can buy a CUP car 90L tank for cheap, you are off to a good start but you will still need the rest of the parts to make it happen.
Since my RS with the 90L tank is now going up for sale, i decided to return the stock 60L tank for the next owner. I could not justify the additional expense for a resale for the sake of maintaining a 90L tank.
My 90L tank is now offered for sale.
$250.00 plus shipping from vancouver canada.
if you plan on doing the 90L conversion, the CUP tank will work, but the stock street car sending unit etc will not work.
After trying twice to configure the computer to understand the larger tank, i have called it quits.
The car will require the guts from a euro car for the computer to understand the additional fuel capacity.
These parts can be purchased just as the street car Euro tank, however it all comes down to cost.
If you can buy a CUP car 90L tank for cheap, you are off to a good start but you will still need the rest of the parts to make it happen.
Since my RS with the 90L tank is now going up for sale, i decided to return the stock 60L tank for the next owner. I could not justify the additional expense for a resale for the sake of maintaining a 90L tank.
My 90L tank is now offered for sale.
$250.00 plus shipping from vancouver canada.
02-04-2011, 09:03 PM
#67
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It acts the same way as 60L tank. Mileage until empty reads the same as does the gauge.
when the computer thinks the car is empty with 0 miles to empty reading on the screen, the car still has 30L in the reserve.
02-05-2011, 12:32 PM
#68
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tcsracing1
Mine doesn't do that. The gauge reads full for the first 30L. Then it behaves normally. When I am below 1/4 tank, the low fuel light comes on and I have about 2 gallons left. I inadvertently performed an empirical test a block from home. I thought I had more, cough, bang, check engine light no power. I coasted home. Bone dry at 376 miles. Thereafter I believed the gauge. I typically get 450-500 miles on a tank when there is no continuous "hotdogging".
Like I mentioned in the prior post, it took two tries on a Porsche software laptop. The first time was with software from England and I suspect when we did the controlled 2-2.5 gal. it used Imperial gallons instead of U.S. gallons. My second effort was with U.S. Porsche software. There is apparently a section in the technical literature on recalibrating. However, I think it does require the sending unit to be matched to the tank.
Like I mentioned in the prior post, it took two tries on a Porsche software laptop. The first time was with software from England and I suspect when we did the controlled 2-2.5 gal. it used Imperial gallons instead of U.S. gallons. My second effort was with U.S. Porsche software. There is apparently a section in the technical literature on recalibrating. However, I think it does require the sending unit to be matched to the tank.
02-05-2011, 03:21 PM
#69
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Mine doesn't do that. The gauge reads full for the first 30L. Then it behaves normally. When I am below 1/4 tank, the low fuel light comes on and I have about 2 gallons left. I inadvertently performed an empirical test a block from home. I thought I had more, cough, bang, check engine light no power. I coasted home. Bone dry at 376 miles. Thereafter I believed the gauge. I typically get 450-500 miles on a tank when there is no continuous "hotdogging".
Like I mentioned in the prior post, it took two tries on a Porsche software laptop. The first time was with software from England and I suspect when we did the controlled 2-2.5 gal. it used Imperial gallons instead of U.S. gallons. My second effort was with U.S. Porsche software. There is apparently a section in the technical literature on recalibrating. However, I think it does require the sending unit to be matched to the tank.
Like I mentioned in the prior post, it took two tries on a Porsche software laptop. The first time was with software from England and I suspect when we did the controlled 2-2.5 gal. it used Imperial gallons instead of U.S. gallons. My second effort was with U.S. Porsche software. There is apparently a section in the technical literature on recalibrating. However, I think it does require the sending unit to be matched to the tank.
