PCCB Motorsport ('Green') Pads
02-07-2009, 10:51 PM
#16
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^
But as an EXTREMELY knowledgeable person, at a race track, once wagged his finger at me and in the best english he could muster said "never, ever use P 50 pads on the street". He went on to explain that the increase in stopping distances with "cold brakes" and P 50s could cost your life in an emergency. No, he wasn't scaremongering, he was too practical for that and he knew the all GT cars inside and out.
But as an EXTREMELY knowledgeable person, at a race track, once wagged his finger at me and in the best english he could muster said "never, ever use P 50 pads on the street". He went on to explain that the increase in stopping distances with "cold brakes" and P 50s could cost your life in an emergency. No, he wasn't scaremongering, he was too practical for that and he knew the all GT cars inside and out.
02-07-2009, 11:25 PM
#17
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Question for all you P50 (Green pads) users...
When you really stand up on your PCCBs how much more stopping power do you get (want) with the P50s that you don't get with the regular P40s??? And if the justification is that P50s last longer than P40s...heck, they eat your rotors a lot faster. What 'am I missing here???
When you really stand up on your PCCBs how much more stopping power do you get (want) with the P50s that you don't get with the regular P40s??? And if the justification is that P50s last longer than P40s...heck, they eat your rotors a lot faster. What 'am I missing here???
02-08-2009, 12:33 AM
#18
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Question for all you P50 (Green pads) users...
When you really stand up on your PCCBs how much more stopping power do you get (want) with the P50s that you don't get with the regular P40s??? And if the justification is that P50s last longer than P40s...heck, they eat your rotors a lot faster. What 'am I missing here???
When you really stand up on your PCCBs how much more stopping power do you get (want) with the P50s that you don't get with the regular P40s??? And if the justification is that P50s last longer than P40s...heck, they eat your rotors a lot faster. What 'am I missing here???
Sure; it is likely that P50s will feel firmer, but other than to avoid replacing pads in a 1 day event, why do people feel/think P50s are a must for the track?
02-08-2009, 02:34 AM
#19
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Not that I disagree, but I think that any and all new pads should be bedded in (i.e. the 10 very hard back to back stops form 60 to 5mph)
What is far more critical to know is that the OE pccb pads "under track conditions" will release a gas that causes you to blow 2 corners while it happens - this will never happen for street driven cars so don't worry, but I think porsche should include in the manual information about this because when it happened to the first of us that got the cars on the track it was very scary and no one knew what was happening and the techs at the dealer didn't believe it. The other issue that should also be covered in the manual is how the bit point will fall about an inch once the rotors have been scrubbed in at the track - again, for those that experienced it we all thought the brakes were failing / fluid boilling
What is far more critical to know is that the OE pccb pads "under track conditions" will release a gas that causes you to blow 2 corners while it happens - this will never happen for street driven cars so don't worry, but I think porsche should include in the manual information about this because when it happened to the first of us that got the cars on the track it was very scary and no one knew what was happening and the techs at the dealer didn't believe it. The other issue that should also be covered in the manual is how the bit point will fall about an inch once the rotors have been scrubbed in at the track - again, for those that experienced it we all thought the brakes were failing / fluid boilling
when i first drove pccb gt3, i cannot heel and toe. car was not tracked yet at that time.
then the car had 300 fairly easy track miles. no prob heel toeing anymore. brake engages at lower pedal point.
02-08-2009, 10:38 AM
#20
Race Director
How long are all your PCCB rotors lasting?
I ask this because I wanted PCCB's but did not get them on my 09 because I know guys that I track with at Sebring and the PCCB rotors did not last long (5-6 events I believe) and are way too expensive ($10K!!!) to replace.
thanks!
I ask this because I wanted PCCB's but did not get them on my 09 because I know guys that I track with at Sebring and the PCCB rotors did not last long (5-6 events I believe) and are way too expensive ($10K!!!) to replace.
thanks!
02-08-2009, 11:10 AM
#21
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How long are all your PCCB rotors lasting?
I ask this because I wanted PCCB's but did not get them on my 09 because I know guys that I track with at Sebring and the PCCB rotors did not last long (5-6 events I believe) and are way too expensive ($10K!!!) to replace.
thanks!
I ask this because I wanted PCCB's but did not get them on my 09 because I know guys that I track with at Sebring and the PCCB rotors did not last long (5-6 events I believe) and are way too expensive ($10K!!!) to replace.
thanks!
997 GT3RS ( evolved Gen2) - 22k miles (and a lot of track days) still looking good.
As I've said many times before...replace pads when 50% worn; Castrol SRF brake fluid; proper bed-in of new pads; proper cool down laps = extend rotor life.
02-08-2009, 11:56 AM
#22
How long are all your PCCB rotors lasting?
I ask this because I wanted PCCB's but did not get them on my 09 because I know guys that I track with at Sebring and the PCCB rotors did not last long (5-6 events I believe) and are way too expensive ($10K!!!) to replace.
thanks!
I ask this because I wanted PCCB's but did not get them on my 09 because I know guys that I track with at Sebring and the PCCB rotors did not last long (5-6 events I believe) and are way too expensive ($10K!!!) to replace.
thanks!
- i think the rotors have about another 15 to 20 events = 50 maybe 60 in total
- i think this equals 5 maybe 6 times the length of irons (sound about right?)
- so, if it is 5x, does that make ther ceramics about 2X as expensive to run
i.e. does 2 X cost of 5 irons = cost of 1 ceramics ???? (anyone have todays prices of each from the dealer)
02-08-2009, 11:59 AM
#23
^
But as an EXTREMELY knowledgeable person, at a race track, once wagged his finger at me and in the best english he could muster said "never, ever use P 50 pads on the street". He went on to explain that the increase in stopping distances with "cold brakes" and P 50s could cost your life in an emergency. No, he wasn't scaremongering, he was too practical for that and he knew the all GT cars inside and out.
But as an EXTREMELY knowledgeable person, at a race track, once wagged his finger at me and in the best english he could muster said "never, ever use P 50 pads on the street". He went on to explain that the increase in stopping distances with "cold brakes" and P 50s could cost your life in an emergency. No, he wasn't scaremongering, he was too practical for that and he knew the all GT cars inside and out.
02-08-2009, 12:11 PM
#24
So far, I don't really feel the need to risk a shorter lifespan on the rotors by using the P50s. P40s have worked fine for me at the track, with not a single fade event and great feel under all circumstances (specially considering that I'm 20mph+ faster at any braking point than in any other car I had before).
Sure; it is likely that P50s will feel firmer, but other than to avoid replacing pads in a 1 day event, why do people feel/think P50s are a must for the track?
Sure; it is likely that P50s will feel firmer, but other than to avoid replacing pads in a 1 day event, why do people feel/think P50s are a must for the track?
You are correct, the stock pads do not fade and I also like the P40 OE "feel" as they are softer.
Since everything cost money (rotors & pads) to me it just came down to convenience (i.e. I could spend $800 for a set of OE pads that last 3 events for the rears or I could spend the same money and have the pads last 10 events - the question then becomes how much faster do the P50s wear the rotors than the P40s under track conditions - i'm not sure there are too many people alive that know that information exactly but if I had to guess I would think that everything nets out in the end and it therefore comes down to convenience)
02-08-2009, 02:47 PM
#27
- i'm 99% sure it is the same fluid used for both cars - standard dot 4 porsche fluid
- that should be easy, just call any dealer parts department Monday and get them to read you the label (wet boiling point being the key)
- that should be easy, just call any dealer parts department Monday and get them to read you the label (wet boiling point being the key)
02-08-2009, 04:55 PM
#29
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For my 2004 GT3 with PCCB my local dealer in Vancouver used a DOT5.1 brake fluid. No other info on my invoice. When I started tracking the car I moved to Motul RBF600.
Cheers,
Cheers,
02-08-2009, 07:02 PM
#30
Three Wheelin'
I have been using the Porsche Motorsport P50 on A&P front steel and rear PCCB's.
Have no problems with the P50 cold, if you check the temp vs. torque spec sheet posted in the past, they show a great amount of low temp torque.
I have used RS-14 and several milder pads as well and I have found the P50's to be the best street track pad out there.
No problem with daily driving and they are amazing pad at the track.
Have no problems with the P50 cold, if you check the temp vs. torque spec sheet posted in the past, they show a great amount of low temp torque.
I have used RS-14 and several milder pads as well and I have found the P50's to be the best street track pad out there.
No problem with daily driving and they are amazing pad at the track.